Replacing Tweeter and woofer in Infinity RS3000

[scotchfingers]

Hi guys,
New to the forum but ive recently gotten into audio / building / tinkering. I have a pair of Infinity RS 3000 speakers - i love the look of them but both woofers and tweeters are unusable.

http://www.infinity-classics.de/technik/manuals/RS_3000_technical_sheet.pdf

The PDF shows normal impedance of 6ohms

Im unsure what ohm woofer and tweeter to buy

If anyone can help that would be awesome!

Thanks

 

[ICG]

If you replace the tweeter and the woofer, it will become a completely different box and the crossover can't be used anymore either, that's a whole new development and got nothing to do with the original anymore at all!

 

[TNT]

Party?

//

 

[Galu]

Welcome the forum!

As has been said, unless you replace drivers like for like, you will have a different speaker and an unpredictable sound balance.

Perhaps if you give details of why your woofers and tweeters are 'unusable', we may be of some help e.g. in guiding you how to replace the woofer surrounds or possibly repair the faulty tweeters.

 

[scotchfingers]

Thanks for your replies!
Ahhh that's a bummer. I no longer have the original speakers. The friend that gave me the boxes removed the old speakers. They were given to me for free so I don't mind throwing in some speakers and hoping for the best.

Would you guys recommend any specific ohms ?

 

[TBTL]

You could buy the components of a loudspeaker kit ( = complete loudspeaker without cabinet) and build these into your enclosures. For this to work properly, the baffle width of your enclosure must be similar to the baffle width of the kit. Furthermore, the woofer have an acceptable low frequency performance in the available cabinet volume. The latter you can check with WinISD, for example. 8" woofer / 1" tweeter combinations are not common nowadays, most are 6.5" / 1". You might have to make an adapter ring to fit the 6.5" woofer in the 8" hole. The 6.5" woofer might work better in a ported enclosure, again check WinISD to see what tuning frequency works with the available cabinet volume.

If the box just has to make sound for little money, an 8" full range driver like the GRS 8FR-8 or Pioneer B20FU20-51FW, combined with a piezo tweeter (crossed over as a super tweeter) will do. For example, the crossover can be an 8.2 ohms resistor in parallel with the piezo, with a 0.47 µF capacitor in series with the piezo / resistor combination. The woofer runs without crossover. See https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/ful...b20-baffle-popular-tweeter-2.html#post2016238

 

[Galu]

I suspect that you do not yet have loudspeaker design software such as WinISD, so TBTL's second option is probably the best one for you.

Here are helpful links to let you see what type of replacements he is suggesting:

GRS 8FR-8 Full-Range 8" Speaker Pioneer Type B20FU20-51FW

GRS PZ1165 4-3/8" Piezo Horn Tweeter Similar to KSN1165A

 

[phivates]

It's a sealed 8" two way. You could call PE or Madisound and ask their advice. Do you want to tinker or listen? That is a decent box.

 

[Galu]

The internal volume of the RS-3000 enclosure is in the order of 1.2 cu ft.

The specs of the following 8" full range suggest an optimum sealed cabinet size of 1.16 cu ft, so it will match your cabinet better than the one mentioned in post #7.

Goldwood GW-8003/8 8" Full Range Driver w/Whizzer

If you want to do more than tinker and are willing to spend a lot more money on these empty cabinets, then you'd be best to bone up on sealed enclosure design first.

 

[Moondog55]

I'm thinking 3" or 4" wide range plus a .5 woofer. There are a lot of 8" woofers that would be happy is a sealed box that big, even taking out a few litres for the enclosure for a decent wide range.

 

[phivates]

Like xrk971's well documented project. You could do a budget version with the Dayton DC 200-8 and the TC9.

 

[Good E Nuff]

About impedance... I think you’ll be fine with 8 ohm drivers, if you’re planning to give the existing crossovers a try.

 

[phivates]

I have the RS 2001, a 6.5" version with the polycell dome tweeter. The original x/o is a second order with a film cap on the tweeter and worth trying if you go with a new dome but at the least you will need an L pad on the high pass, as the original had a small magnet to match the output of the woofer.