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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Please help a  professional woodworker build DIY speakers
Please help a  professional woodworker build DIY speakers
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Old 9th July 2019, 05:21 PM   #11
LineSource is offline LineSource  United States
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Size? Shape? Construction tech? Designs with free crossover parts values?
A simple well-braced plywood box with a thick front baffle allowing low edge diffraction beveled cuts?

To help focus your personal goals.
Make a long visit to:
DIY Loudspeakers
Troels Gravesen, Denmark

"Welcome to my website! Below you will find articles on some of the work done over the last fifteen years."

DIY Loudspeaker Projects Troels Gravesen

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Old 9th July 2019, 05:51 PM   #12
koja is offline koja  Canada
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Well you asked a good question:

The narrow (10ft) room presents a challenge as early side reflections off the walls are not good for speaker imaging. The corner placement in general is a bad idea unless we are talking some CD horns. Horns are good as a woodworking challenge but get really big quickly. For on wall mounting you could try an interesting build like Cornu spiral speaker (also described on diyaudio).

You can either go with tall and slim arrays on the far (opposite) wall and have those play back at you over the length of the room.

However, if you want to beat any commercial-like speaker, you would be stunned by the clarity and the lack of colorations in a super slim package with LXmini speakers (designed by the late Siegfried Linkwitz). And then you can add a subwoofer separately later on some place in the room.

These are not a woodworking challenge (unless you make it so in your version). They are also an active speaker which means they require a digital crossover (MiniDSP 2x4 HD) flashed with Siegfried's file and they require 4 channels of amplification. i.e. two stereo amplifiers (plus one channel if you decide to add a sub).

for commercial-like DIY passive Xover designs Troels G is a good reference.

Good luck.
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Old 9th July 2019, 07:31 PM   #13
Jim Griffin is online now Jim Griffin  United States
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For Barney's 10' x 20' sized room a CBT24 array will have important characteristics. Don Keele reports that his CBT arrays exhibit 3D sound radiation with constant beamwidth, constant directivity, constant coverage, and constant radiated power. Thus anywhere within the space of his shop will have exceptional sound. No small sweet spot but anywhere within the shop: he will hear great sound throughout.

You not forced to sit in a single chair which is carefully located to hear optimum sound.
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Old 9th July 2019, 08:38 PM   #14
planet10 is offline planet10  Canada
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Please help a  professional woodworker build DIY speakers
Originally Posted by koja View Post
LXmini speakers (designed by the late Siegfried Linkwitz)… they require a digital crossover
There is a Nelson Pass designed analog active XO for the LX-mini.

All the info needed for DIY can be found on these pages, and there is a kit on the diyAudio Store.

Analog Crossover Network – diyAudio Store

community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi
p10-hifi forum here at diyA
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Old 9th July 2019, 10:20 PM   #15
LineSource is offline LineSource  United States
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Popular horn tweeters have a controlled directivity of Horizontal = 90deg and Vertical = 40deg. If you overlay the L=90H x R=90H patterns on your floorplan, you may be able to focus this soundstage to the work area and avoid some side equipment reflections. If you mount the speakers on the wall, the 40V can reduce floor and ceiling interactions. A large number of free EconoWave designs are available. A 12" midbass with a 1" compression driver would fit your room... could be mounted on the walls.

The $76 12" paper cone Dayton DS315P has been used with a few compression drivers + horns for $200 - $250 per speaker for parts. On the wall, the -F3 is 35Hz. I have proven crossover schematics. PartsExpress has all the parts.
The 12" Eminence KappaLite 3012HO for $202 is one great sounding upgrade.

$202 Eminence KappaLite 3012HO midbass
$65 Peerless 1" compression driver DFM-2544R00-08
$13 B-52 PHRN 1014 waveguide
$40 crossover parts
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Old 9th July 2019, 11:12 PM   #16
Barney9081 is offline Barney9081  United States
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Everyone is so helpful!! Thank you for making me feel so welcome.

Thank you all so much for the time and thought put into your replies. I have printed everything out, and will meticulously dissect all of your information.

Folks weren’t joking when they said this is the best place for DIY sound!

I’ve done a lot of reading over the past few days, and I understand HiFi is a massively complex topic. I have a lot of experience dealing with similar complexity in various genres of craftsmanship. However… Audio and hi-fi are just as intimidating as anything I’ve encountered..... Because although there is science and numbers behind most things, hi-fi can be very subjective and opinion-based.

I am used to this, when dealing with the violin industry, which is very subjective also… But hi-fi sometimes takes that subjectiveness and snobbery to another level. But I have found nothing but support and kindness here and in other corners of the Internet. Which supports my theory, that most professionals/ serious hobbyists… Are generally great folks who are willing to help.

So far this info has really narrowed it down for me, although I’m still perplexed on the cabinet material.

I was under the impression solid wood would be better. Similar to furniture… MDF furniture is usually considered cheapest, and as you move up in grades of plywood, veneer, and then get into solid woods… finally moving to the highest quality.... which is large wide “one piece” boards, of air dried quality lumber.
But a few have stated that MDF is used for a reason, even on the most expensive quality speakers. This blew my mind, and I cringe to think of building anything of MDF. Not because of snobbery or tone, but because it’s smart to use the best materials when spending one’s time in building something.

Again, Thank You all for the information, I will read through the printed pages and be timely with updates to my situation.

I hope to choose a design and order the components within the next few days.
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Old 9th July 2019, 11:33 PM   #17
lousymusician is offline lousymusician  United States
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Moondog probably has it right - Tarkus is aimed at your listening tastes and would fill your room. Drivers would run about $200 for the pair, leaving plenty of budget for crossovers, hardware and lumber. Lots of room for creative expression in building the cabinets, too.

Forget solid wood for the cabinet bodies, it's not dimensionally stable enough for this purpose. Use 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood, and add a fancy veneer if you like. Use "plenty of bracing" in the woofer box as the design calls for.

Insert witty signature line here.
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Old 10th July 2019, 01:40 AM   #18
Moondog55 is offline Moondog55  Australia
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If I could afford 20mm Baltic Birch ply it is all I would use, it is a very good material for the purpose. Speaker boxes are not furniture but look at some of the Tarkus builds over at Paul Carmodies page and see what people have done with paint and veneers. Speakers are not like musical instruments, they should not contribute anything to the reproduction of the recorded music, musically speaking they should be as dead / inert as reasonably possible
QUOTE" The more I know, the more I know, I know (insert maniacal laugh >here<) NOTHING"
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Old 10th July 2019, 02:24 AM   #19
Quip is offline Quip
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Hey, you're lucky. With woodworking skill like yours, exotic speaker designs impossible to find in the retail market (because of complexity of construction, bleeding-edge tech/engineering/components and unusual looks) are attainable. Examples include the Jim Griffin CBT array (already suggested above), the Unitized Image Control Waveguide, The Two Towers, the XBush
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Old 10th July 2019, 05:02 AM   #20
AllenB is offline AllenB  Australia
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Look at constrained layer damping...

Take one piece of 1x1 3/4" plywood, lift one edge off the floor and drop your hammer onto it and listen. Now take another piece and laminate the pair using a thin layer of soft (spongy) polyurethane adhesive then drop your hammer onto that.
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