Hi guys, I am just wondering if there are any problems with Externally mounted crossover??
I am planning to remove the rear panel where the speaker posts are from my Dynaudio Audience 52. Then use that hole for cables to enter the speaker. Make a crossover box using MDF and mount it over the hole. I intend to make it reversible by using the original screw points.
Other than looks (its the back anyway), are there any adverse effects?
Another is choice of components. Looking at the components of the crossover, it really looks horrible. I am planning to replace it with better ones (air core thick wire inductors),
Also for the white resistors, the wires thats protruding out on the sides looks miserable. I am wonder if things will improve with more resistors in parallel. Eg. 3 x 15ohm to get 5ohm (instead of 1 x 5ohm).
Then skip the circuit board traces altogether. Direct solder of wires (something like interior of tube amp) Use circuit board just for securing components.
Sorry for asking so many questions. Me noob in this. I have prior experience in amp modding but never tried speakers before.
I am planning to remove the rear panel where the speaker posts are from my Dynaudio Audience 52. Then use that hole for cables to enter the speaker. Make a crossover box using MDF and mount it over the hole. I intend to make it reversible by using the original screw points.
Other than looks (its the back anyway), are there any adverse effects?
Another is choice of components. Looking at the components of the crossover, it really looks horrible. I am planning to replace it with better ones (air core thick wire inductors),
Also for the white resistors, the wires thats protruding out on the sides looks miserable. I am wonder if things will improve with more resistors in parallel. Eg. 3 x 15ohm to get 5ohm (instead of 1 x 5ohm).
Then skip the circuit board traces altogether. Direct solder of wires (something like interior of tube amp) Use circuit board just for securing components.
Sorry for asking so many questions. Me noob in this. I have prior experience in amp modding but never tried speakers before.
Everything you've said will work fine, although I wouldn't hold any hope that doing these mods will magically change the sound entirely. It's gonna be subtle at best.
Chris
Makes sense to always have the driver connections outside the box. That way you can move to bi-amp'ing without a fuss.
And as soon as you start measuring your speaker, you'll likely see you have to make changes to your crossover. And at that moment, you'll wonder why you used a hard to change passive one.
B.
And as soon as you start measuring your speaker, you'll likely see you have to make changes to your crossover. And at that moment, you'll wonder why you used a hard to change passive one.
B.
A very good speaker, not sure the newer Dynaudio cabinets are better !
If I remember correctly this model was launched 25 years ago somewhat ?
The Esotar tweeter is a strong point, I'm surprised nobody told you already to check if the FeroFluid of the tweeter is not too dry ! A FerroFluid kit is not expensive and will give you the best result; the second order tweeter filter asks some cooling to reduce distorsions... It could be the best best diy for a positive change ! (ask to Dynaudio about the viscosity of the D52 Ferrofluid)
Changing passive parts will change the sound and if your source is not very good it's not mandatory imho. You can't go wrong by changing the capacitors for very good ones like some copper + polypropylene wounded. But they are expensive and could enhance the sound only if the rest of your hifi is already very good. So indeed active amplification makes more QP sense but if your source is sota (then stays passive). Because the cheap analog/digital/analog process of such products like MiniDSP are not sota.
just my poor experience.
Edit: lytic caps dry too, so check also the values with a capacitormeter tool if your speaker is more than 20 years. Check always both speakers to look for capacitance differences between both filter units.
If I remember correctly this model was launched 25 years ago somewhat ?
The Esotar tweeter is a strong point, I'm surprised nobody told you already to check if the FeroFluid of the tweeter is not too dry ! A FerroFluid kit is not expensive and will give you the best result; the second order tweeter filter asks some cooling to reduce distorsions... It could be the best best diy for a positive change ! (ask to Dynaudio about the viscosity of the D52 Ferrofluid)
Changing passive parts will change the sound and if your source is not very good it's not mandatory imho. You can't go wrong by changing the capacitors for very good ones like some copper + polypropylene wounded. But they are expensive and could enhance the sound only if the rest of your hifi is already very good. So indeed active amplification makes more QP sense but if your source is sota (then stays passive). Because the cheap analog/digital/analog process of such products like MiniDSP are not sota.
just my poor experience.
Edit: lytic caps dry too, so check also the values with a capacitormeter tool if your speaker is more than 20 years. Check always both speakers to look for capacitance differences between both filter units.
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I don't know what your problem is with the "white resistors" (presumably these are the rectangular ceramic, 2 watts or higher power rating). They should be fine. If you do replace one with several other smaller-wattage resistors in parallel, make some space in between them for good air flow for when they get hot.
While you're at it, you might measure the sensitivity of each driver. You might want to increase or decrease the series resistor with the tweeter to match sensitivities. If you're taking the time to tweak it, you might as well do as much as you reasonably can.
Measure any original parts and replacements with an LCR meter that's accurate to at least 1 percent. This means for inductors, measure DC resistance as well as inductance. The original designer(s) likely used the DC resistance of the inductors as part of their calculations, as it's often a significant percentage of the impedance. Making the same inductance with bigger wire will lower the resistance and mess up that calculation.
While you're at it, you might measure the sensitivity of each driver. You might want to increase or decrease the series resistor with the tweeter to match sensitivities. If you're taking the time to tweak it, you might as well do as much as you reasonably can.
That must be the nitrogen activation that is taking place. I read it in the JC III thread
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