First strike, using pop as a reference.
Second strike, suggesting an amp can make music sound "slow and heavy."
Third strike, "...music struggling through a sea of subjective treacle."
Sometimes I wonder if the reviewers are suffering through a bad acid trip when they write this stuff.
OK, you say 'all sizes box', meaning can be any size necessary, but then say you have a height limit, so is this the tallest the box can be or is this the distance from the center of the driver to the floor?
GM
What dimensions have people used for the cabinets? I'm about to build this when the drivers arrive and my main concern is getting the correct 'Onken' ratios.
Using the calculator, which is more important: the L' vent (=35cm) or S vent (=Sd or no less than 15% less than Sd)? Can't seem to get both within the ideal values...
Using the calculator, which is more important: the L' vent (=35cm) or S vent (=Sd or no less than 15% less than Sd)? Can't seem to get both within the ideal values...
OK, note that with a ~91.2 cm inside vertical dimension it is just barely long enough for it to affect the position of the woofer, so is it OK to move it up from ~45.6 cm to ~52.53 cm [better] or ~59.37 cm [best]?
I presume this is a new driver with revised specs?
GM
TTBOMK, there's no such thing as correct 'Onken' ratios for cab dimensions; for instance, the Onken 360 doesn't use either structurally pleasing or room ratios or 'golden' ratios [all recommended] for the box or even for overall dimensions, apparently under the assumption its box has a ~uniform particle density same as a typical reflex, sealed alignment, which is fine for the Petite Onken or any other ~ square to rectangular box that doesn't have its baffle board inside long dimension > ~35-36"/90 cm [i.d.].
'L' vent is more important, though 'S' vent ideally needs to be large enough to have a lower than normal ~ 5% vent mach [~17 m/s].
Anyway, a nice 360 documented build: Ispra.Net - Audio
GM
I have quite good experience dealing with 15XA38ND and trying to get good sound for indoor use. It is a hard job to get decent bass from this driver below 60-70Hz. I've designed a new XO network for this driver. Woofer is second order at about 1400hz with a parallel notch filter and tweeter is 4th order. the notch filter will sacrifice some dBs but with much better bass. the final sensitivity of speaker will about 91-92dB and with 45hz flat response and f3=38hz. it will go down to about 33-34hz in interior. my cabinet is 110cm tall, 48cm width and 50cm depth with about 240-250 liter of volume. afterall I think it sound pretty good for what it is. sounds lush, detailed and vibrant with damn good imaging and coherency.
this is the final frequency response (smoothed 12dB).
this is the final frequency response (smoothed 12dB).
According to my own bass reflex cabinet with ~250l volume tuned to resonance frequency and actual measurement of frequency response and ZMA from datasheet the final frequency response with this XO would be something like this. there won't be any real bass at the end:
I must say, that I have plenty bass response even with my enclosure with ca. 200l...
Maybe the relations in size matters more than theory... ?
But who can build 10 boxes and listen which is the best... ?
The room helps with the socalled theoretical missing bass... or sosmetimes the other way around...
I am very pleased...
Even with only 1.5W from my el84... or 5W from the great DIY Class-A 2SK1058 MOSFET Amplifier...
DIY Class-A 2SK1058 MOSFET Amplifier Project
Maybe the relations in size matters more than theory... ?
But who can build 10 boxes and listen which is the best... ?
The room helps with the socalled theoretical missing bass... or sosmetimes the other way around...
I am very pleased...
Even with only 1.5W from my el84... or 5W from the great DIY Class-A 2SK1058 MOSFET Amplifier...
DIY Class-A 2SK1058 MOSFET Amplifier Project
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