Crossover Parts List - Feedback & Confirmation

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Hi Guys,
I am putting together a pair of party speakers!

I have all the speaker components. I need your opinion on the crossover parts prior to purchasing.

Below 3 images represent the following:

1/ Desired results (the crossover points I need)
2/ Crossover Schematic
3/ Parts list (different from schematic, this is where I need your help)


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


Since exact same parts were not available I used nearest value.
Let me know if selected alternatives make sense.

Thank you in advance for your support. :D
Regards,
Farid
 
Depends on whether you have the means for testing these comports values? If you do, get three of each value so you can pair the two best matching to left and right sides.

If you don't and if you have any grasp of life in the real world of physical objects, then also get three more above and below the value your sim thinks you need. So that's 9 of each component.

A more complex quality control statistical problem if the matching has to be more than just L and R.

Be sure to leave the crossover breadboard where you can modify it. Test with REW.

Or buy a DSP for like the cost of your coils and caps.

B.
 
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So I guess it is better to use ready made crossover.
Thank you for the feedback guys.

Buy three and keep the two best matches, except if none of them match well.

Test when wired to speakers. Simple electrical test at a few freq would be OK under this low-tech approach, although REW and mic would be better.

Don't fret if even the electric response is all over the place. Passive crossovers are crude.

Anybody know the number of elements in the KEF LC50 crossover that it took to make the little speaker play well, successor to the famous BBC L5/3A (did I get that right?).

B.
 
I think you mean the LS3/5A.

However, passive xovers are not crude, and can do the job quite well. But if the OP progresses as intended, this will not be an ideal situation. No measure, no model, no regard to driver sensitivity or range constraints...
Passive crossovers depend on very simplified models of driver output and some specs that might have come from the Marketing Department.

The two-way LS3/5A had 18 elements. If you have fewer, you are going to land somewhere short of "quite well".

Yes, "pretty OK" may be feasible but only if cobbled together based on testing and tweaking, not based on abstract principles.

B.
 
Just because a famous speaker used 18 parts or 100 parts does not make a DIY designed speaker with fewer parts overly simplified or 'pretty OK'.

I would not call a design that is well thought out with a simple(r) xover that has great results to be inferior to that of an active design.

You are really short-changing the efforts of many in your quest against passive xovers.

Later,
Wolf
 
Just because a famous speaker used 18 parts or 100 parts.......You are really short-changing the efforts of many in your quest against passive xovers.

First of all, my impression is that most commercial boxes that aspire to quality have a whole bunch of elements in their crossovers. There's no other way to commercially produce a nice looking FR.

Nothing personal about it, although I've been bi-amped since around 1968.

The approach of passive crossovers (which leaves nothing much that is adjustable downstream unless you sneak in an L-pad which obviously is against the rules) and a single stereo power amp is today not a wise choice. An exception would be if you are attached to very expensive tube amps and so bi-amp'ing is prohibitively expensive due to the need to replicate all those large transformers.

Perhaps the least sensible speaker design is the familiar two-way medium sized box. And that's the natural home of passive crossovers with the break smack in the middle of the critical listening range and no low bass.

Far more sensible is smallish satellites (even single drivers) with a good sub-woofer in a favourable location in your room. It is unfeasible to crossover a sub with a passive crossover.

B.
 
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Just because a famous speaker used 18 parts or 100 parts does not make a DIY designed speaker with fewer parts overly simplified or 'pretty OK'.

I would not call a design that is well thought out with a simple(r) xover that has great results to be inferior to that of an active design.

You are really short-changing the efforts of many in your quest against passive xovers.

Later,
Wolf

Hey wolf,

I agree with you each has its merits and downsides.......I was looking at doing a hybrid of sorts, keeping capacitors in play and using dsp to blend it....I find inductors and resistors rather stifling.

Don’t really see anyone doing a hybrid xo .....is there a reason not to try it?

Bob
 
.. Don’t really see anyone doing a hybrid xo .....is there a reason not to try it?
Kind of tossing baby out with bath water.

It is bi-amp'ing that you want and you want it in order to have no elements between the low output impedance* of the amp and the voice coil(s). But otherwise, I don't think the elements in a passive crossover actually add error (aside from screwing around with the frequency plot, phase, and so on).

You also want an upstream XO because it divides the spectrum properly and is not subject to the fluctuations of the load as is the case with drivers as loads for a passive XO. Also, with a DSP, you twiddle the knobs and get any break point, type of filter, and slope (up to L-R48) to a explore using music.

B.
* or for motional feedback, negative output impedance
 
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Wow guys... This has turned into an audiophile discussion, my knowledge and experience is minimum in the field (as you can tell by my post) but that's ok, in fact that is why I am here.

I don't mean to offend but I am not at all interested in a flat response, in fact I prefer hard bass and piercing vocals.

The intent with these 'party' speakers is to have crazy loud music playing at social gettogethers. I have a Yamaha YST-SW800 & a Cerwin Vega CVA-115 at opposite corners of the room for the extra bass.

Just wanted to kill some time so I decided to make a pair of speakers. I bought Audiopipe CRX-303 crossover (cheap stuff) which is giving me a more enjoyable listening experience than 2 other Chinese crossovers I bought and rejected ($30 - $45 range per piece).

While I have basic knowledge of REW and UMIK-1 to measure it is not necessary as that is not the intent. Let know if there is a good stock crossover out there that you can recommend.

Thank you guys for your support and replying to my thread.

Regards,
Farid
 
Kind of tossing baby out with bath water.

It is bi-amp'ing that you want and you want it in order to have no elements between the low output impedance* of the amp and the voice coil(s). But otherwise, I don't think the elements in a passive crossover actually add error (aside from screwing around with the frequency plot, phase, and so on).

You also want an upstream XO because it divides the spectrum properly and is not subject to the fluctuations of the load as is the case with drivers as loads for a passive XO. Also, with a DSP, you twiddle the knobs and get any break point, type of filter, and slope (up to L-R48) to a explore using music.

B.
* or for motional feedback, negative output impedance

Thanks Ben,
Yah I’d planned on biamping (actually tri amping)

I don’t know if I’d call it ‘adding error’ ....More like sapping life.

I’d like to try it hybrid as I do find caps a good way to manipulate the stage/air and unlike many folks, I find quite a difference between brands/types of caps.....but that’s a whole nuther argument!

In fact I used to not be a fan of dsp but after playing with it (in limited capacity) with my Yamaha 803 it’s really starting to grow on me enough to keep exploring it.
 
Wow guys... This has turned into an audiophile discussion, my knowledge and experience is minimum in the field (as you can tell by my post) but that's ok, in fact that is why I am here.

I don't mean to offend but I am not at all interested in a flat response, in fact I prefer hard bass and piercing vocals.

The intent with these 'party' speakers is to have crazy loud music playing at social gettogethers. I have a Yamaha YST-SW800 & a Cerwin Vega CVA-115 at opposite corners of the room for the extra bass.

Just wanted to kill some time so I decided to make a pair of speakers. I bought Audiopipe CRX-303 crossover (cheap stuff) which is giving me a more enjoyable listening experience than 2 other Chinese crossovers I bought and rejected ($30 - $45 range per piece).

While I have basic knowledge of REW and UMIK-1 to measure it is not necessary as that is not the intent. Let know if there is a good stock crossover out there that you can recommend.

Thank you guys for your support and replying to my thread.

Regards,
Farid

I can’t open your pics for some reason but it sounds like you want a PA kind of speaker......is this for indoors or out?
Edit...sorry I see now it’s indoors
 
Wow guys... This has turned into an audiophile discussion, my knowledge and experience is minimum in the field (as you can tell by my post) but that's ok, in fact that is why I am here.

I don't mean to offend but I am not at all interested in a flat response, in fact I prefer hard bass and piercing vocals.

The intent with these 'party' speakers is to have crazy loud music playing at social gettogethers. I have a Yamaha YST-SW800 & a Cerwin Vega CVA-115 at opposite corners of the room for the extra bass.

Just wanted to kill some time so I decided to make a pair of speakers. I bought Audiopipe CRX-303 crossover (cheap stuff) which is giving me a more enjoyable listening experience than 2 other Chinese crossovers I bought and rejected ($30 - $45 range per piece).

While I have basic knowledge of REW and UMIK-1 to measure it is not necessary as that is not the intent. Let know if there is a good stock crossover out there that you can recommend.

Thank you guys for your support and replying to my thread.

Regards,
Farid

You're in the wrong place. Most people in this forum are interested in sound quality - audiophile grade. Try the PA Systems forum for what you are trying to do.
 
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This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.