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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

JBL L110 new cabinets
JBL L110 new cabinets
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Old 23rd April 2019, 10:47 AM   #1
mainframe99 is offline mainframe99
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Default JBL L110 new cabinets

Hi All

Recently acquired a pair of jbl l110s and they are awesome. The drivers and crossovers are good. The cabinets are junk though, veneer chipped and peeling everywhere, cabinets damaged and lots of swelling with some corrosion on the drivers makes me think the were stored outside at some stage. Grills are also good.

Being handy with tools and liking to tinker - Can I build my own new cabinets using MDF and apply my own veneer, then just transfer everything into the new cabinets? I figure as long as I match the internal dimensions it should work fine? My only problem is I won’t have the front baffle sitting 10mm proud of the new cabinet like they currently are, and this will effectively increase the baffle by 22mm (1 inchish) each way. Will this be much of a problem?

This would also give me a chance to hand/image the design giving me true a left and right pair, and I could add some bracing?

Could I also flush mount the woofer and mid driver or will this mess up time alignment?

Thoughts, improvements, don’t bother?

Sorry for rambling - thanks in advance.

Some progress pics as I tried to resize and lost the links ;

Click the image to open in full size.

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Last edited by mainframe99; 29th April 2019 at 12:12 AM. Reason: dead img links
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Old 23rd April 2019, 04:38 PM   #2
6thplanet is offline 6thplanet  United States
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It think you'll be alright with that plan. Sounds like a fantastic project to me, have at it! Also, don't forget to post pics of the progress.
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Old 23rd April 2019, 04:45 PM   #3
TBTL is offline TBTL  Germany
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The baffle is placed further forward to accomodate a grille. This leaves the grille frame invisible for the sound, so no additional diffraction problems occur.
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Old 23rd April 2019, 05:09 PM   #4
DickHertz is offline DickHertz  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TBTL View Post
The baffle is placed further forward to accomodate a grille. This leaves the grille frame invisible for the sound, so no additional diffraction problems occur.

A better approach with the new cabinet is to add another layer to the front and bring the level of the front baffle flush with the sides. This will also increase stiffness of the cabinet. Since the new front will be thicker, it's important to bevel the back of the woofer hole so the woofer will be better able to breathe. If the old cabinet isn't braced, add one to the new cabinet in the form of a 4-pane window frame, mounted front-to-back and side-to-side between the woofer and the mid range. Finally, be sure and keep the new cabinet volume the same as the original.
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Old 23rd April 2019, 11:31 PM   #5
aperiodic is offline aperiodic  Serbia
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JBL-L112
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Old 24th April 2019, 03:32 AM   #6
mainframe99 is offline mainframe99
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Thanks aperiodic, that L112 is a beast! But I have no intentions of upgrading crossovers, and dont have the facility to take driver measurements.

I may replace caps and resistors, just because I can. But I have a fine sounding speaker, just really bad cabinets. I may also need to replace the L-pads as the plastic covers for one is missing Pictures will be up soon.

Anyone have any objections to me flush mounting the woofer/mid into the front baffle? I see the tweeter already is on the current speaker (and this is a must I read in the speaker build sticky).
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Old 24th April 2019, 05:12 AM   #7
DickHertz is offline DickHertz  United States
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Mainframe- Two suggestions if you're building new cabinets. Most definitely flush mount the mid-R and tweeter. The woofer won't benefit from flush mounting. Also, I would strongly suggest that you reverse the locations of the mid and tweeter in one cabinet so that you mirror image the pair.
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Old 24th April 2019, 05:27 AM   #8
mainframe99 is offline mainframe99
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Thanks DH that was most certainly the plan. The JBLs are a nice speaker to listen to. Not so much look at, imo.

Thanks all for the knowledge. Will begin soon.
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Old 24th April 2019, 01:26 PM   #9
phivates is offline phivates  United States
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Consider using void-free plywood instead of mdf.
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Old 24th April 2019, 04:29 PM   #10
DickHertz is offline DickHertz  United States
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Originally Posted by phivates View Post
Consider using void-free plywood instead of mdf.
Second that recommendation. Baltic birch 19-20mm would work great. I'd add at least another 9-10mm layer of ply to the front baffle.
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