Unfortunately its at my parents shop where I will be working on it this summer and I don't have pictures of the front off hand.
Galu, I have a pair of Magnovox 6x9's out in the shop that came out of a huge ~1969 color TV. I find them very pleasant and intriguing.
General things to think about from a work-flow perspective:
1.) How are the drivers? Mechanically sound? Surrounds falling apart/etc? Can you measure them as installed? This will heavily guide where to design/modify from there. You have a great chance to add some line-level crossovers if you need to augment what's already there, as you have all the options in front of you in terms of amplification.
2.) What sort of mechanical aptitude/resources do you have for modifications/rebuilding?
3.) What kind of music do you like? Would it make sense to think about using said speakers more as a mid/full range and augment them with a built-in sub?
The idea of a class-D setup is a good one as these modules will package into a very small envelope, as will a mini-computer, and not get too hot (although if there's a way to mount them in a fashion that allows them to vent readily, that'd be for the best). My main reservation is that the impedance of the drivers may not be 4-8 ohms, like modern drivers and may benefit from a revised solution (or at least a different output filter and choosing modules with greater voltage swing).
It might be worthwhile wholesale removing the electronics and see if someone wants the entirety to rebuild their own console. The likelihood that the electrolytics are toast is very very high, and for someone with the proclivity (and desire), it's probably an easy fix. So I'd argue there's greater value for you *and* a potential buyer to keep them together rather than trying to poach the transformer/etc.
1.) How are the drivers? Mechanically sound? Surrounds falling apart/etc? Can you measure them as installed? This will heavily guide where to design/modify from there. You have a great chance to add some line-level crossovers if you need to augment what's already there, as you have all the options in front of you in terms of amplification.
2.) What sort of mechanical aptitude/resources do you have for modifications/rebuilding?
3.) What kind of music do you like? Would it make sense to think about using said speakers more as a mid/full range and augment them with a built-in sub?
The idea of a class-D setup is a good one as these modules will package into a very small envelope, as will a mini-computer, and not get too hot (although if there's a way to mount them in a fashion that allows them to vent readily, that'd be for the best). My main reservation is that the impedance of the drivers may not be 4-8 ohms, like modern drivers and may benefit from a revised solution (or at least a different output filter and choosing modules with greater voltage swing).
It might be worthwhile wholesale removing the electronics and see if someone wants the entirety to rebuild their own console. The likelihood that the electrolytics are toast is very very high, and for someone with the proclivity (and desire), it's probably an easy fix. So I'd argue there's greater value for you *and* a potential buyer to keep them together rather than trying to poach the transformer/etc.
Great! I didn't want to suggest things that would have been impossible/too frustrating. And glad you've worked out heat abatement. I'd be looking Getting a bit of bracing in those cabinets--nothing fancy, but it will certainly help a bunch.
With the whole center part coming out and being replaced by a very small electronic setup, there's a good amount of room for a sub in that space. Doesn't sound like you're needing home-theater lows, so that lowers the demand tremendously. Once you have a better idea the volume you're working with, a decent suggestion can be made. Alignments like a tapped horn/quarter wave tapped pipe could be built in and have their outlet to the back or bottom, not changing the cosmetics of the piece. But that depends on the volume.
Not sure what the crossover situation is like, but there's a great chance to break it out into an active setup with an opamp-based active crossover between. Depending on the amp you use, the same power supply might be capable of running the line-level componentry as well. I'm betting what's in there is pretty basic compared to what you can do with some basic tools.
If nothing else, if there's any electrolytics in the crossover, I'd be looking to replace them with a modern bipolar replacement, as after this many years (and tremendous improvement in manufacturing/materials), they're probably dry/dead/
With the whole center part coming out and being replaced by a very small electronic setup, there's a good amount of room for a sub in that space. Doesn't sound like you're needing home-theater lows, so that lowers the demand tremendously. Once you have a better idea the volume you're working with, a decent suggestion can be made. Alignments like a tapped horn/quarter wave tapped pipe could be built in and have their outlet to the back or bottom, not changing the cosmetics of the piece. But that depends on the volume.
Not sure what the crossover situation is like, but there's a great chance to break it out into an active setup with an opamp-based active crossover between. Depending on the amp you use, the same power supply might be capable of running the line-level componentry as well. I'm betting what's in there is pretty basic compared to what you can do with some basic tools.
If nothing else, if there's any electrolytics in the crossover, I'd be looking to replace them with a modern bipolar replacement, as after this many years (and tremendous improvement in manufacturing/materials), they're probably dry/dead/
And perhaps substituting an open back mid with its own separate sub enclosure. If the cabinet is 17" tall then that looks like a 6*9 woofer and bass should be adequate. My personal inclination would be to work on the mid-range.
There is plenty of space/volume available to play with and the suggestion of a 2.1 amp has merit too.
That old 6X9 may have its fs in the 80 hz range or worse. Not a problem if you add the sub. There were a few consoles from the early days that had a single central woofer. Or there is the new SBA 5X8 woofer that would plug in without major surgery. I did something like this with a 60's Fisher that had a 10" 3 way so upgrading was simple. I opted to put the mid/high source on the wall above the screen since I'm just doing 2 channel audio.
I think you will find this page useful for ideas and techniques in modernizing your console -
Rebuild and Modernize an Old Stereo Console – DIY | Old House Crazy
Rebuild and Modernize an Old Stereo Console – DIY | Old House Crazy
Thanks! I read that article when I first started. It gave me some inspiration when we first inherited the record player. Ultimately our ideal end product will likely be different. We won't use the turntable so our plan is install a small class D amp and turn the center compartment into storage.
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I'd sure be tempted not to rip out the original stuff but restore it to full glory. Listen to it and see what's not to like. Adding a class D amp inside the cabinet without ripping out the old stuff may be possible too. Adding a blue tooth receiver module inside and sending music from a computer or phone would give you the flexibility to play whatever you want and still preserve the original.
You could also keep the grill cloth but cut out the baffle, and use a pair of powered monitors for the speakers. Something like the JBL LSR305 or 308 would solve many issues for a very reasonable amount of money and are, in my opinion, incredible sounding. (I have a pair of 305 and 306Pmk2 they are wonderful)
EDIT: It's worth mentioning that powered monitors and a Chromecast would be a complete system as you outlined in you first post. You'll still have the great looks of the cabinet, there will be tons of storage room on the inside, and the functionality and sound will be what you are after.
EDIT: It's worth mentioning that powered monitors and a Chromecast would be a complete system as you outlined in you first post. You'll still have the great looks of the cabinet, there will be tons of storage room on the inside, and the functionality and sound will be what you are after.
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That Zenith console is one of their "upper tier" models, and once properly restored (and I've done many of them for customers) they sound great, without putzing up the original design.
Attempting to "upgrade" things such as a higher power amp, or different speakers, will only upset the sonic signature that was designed into that cabinet.
And, additionally, the record changer will not be able to handle anything over a lower listening level without succumbing to feedback issues created by intense vibrations due to higher power amplification.
Because THEN, you'll need to build in additional isolation for the changer, and design a Sallen-Key filter network to add to the phono section of the amplifier.
Changing things as I mentioned will open up a whole new can of worms, this I know from experience.
Attempting to "upgrade" things such as a higher power amp, or different speakers, will only upset the sonic signature that was designed into that cabinet.
And, additionally, the record changer will not be able to handle anything over a lower listening level without succumbing to feedback issues created by intense vibrations due to higher power amplification.
Because THEN, you'll need to build in additional isolation for the changer, and design a Sallen-Key filter network to add to the phono section of the amplifier.
Changing things as I mentioned will open up a whole new can of worms, this I know from experience.
Since the console has tape in-out jacks already on the rear panel, anything "line level" can be added, such as a CD player, reel-to reel, cassette, etc.
You could also keep the grill cloth but cut out the baffle, and use a pair of powered monitors for the speakers. Something like the JBL LSR305 or 308 would solve many issues for a very reasonable amount of money and are, in my opinion, incredible sounding. (I have a pair of 305 and 306Pmk2 they are wonderful)
EDIT: It's worth mentioning that powered monitors and a Chromecast would be a complete system as you outlined in you first post. You'll still have the great looks of the cabinet, there will be tons of storage room on the inside, and the functionality and sound will be what you are after.
I actually liked this approach a lot! Unfortunately, I made the mistake of connecting the current speakers to an amp I made and let my wife listen to it. She started talking about how the sounds of the speakers remind her of her childhood and insists we keep them.
In all honesty, I agree that they sounded pretty amazing outside of not having enough base for my liking. I think the plan is going to be to keep the original speakers and explore installing a sub and 2.1 amp.
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