I've put a bit of time lately in a pair of 3 and a 1/2 way floorstanders with two 10" woofers
Firstly I felt the range on the woofers were too wide. Without wanting to mess with the inductors on them I increased the caps from x2 2.0uF to a 2.0uF and a 2.2uF. This dropping the range I was happy with. So installed a 2uF cross cap from Jantzen and 2.2uF by Claritycap ESR. Even though its only woofers the low end was so much precise compared to the electro of closest value.
I then wanted less range from the Seas tweeter I replaced as the standards blown. I increased the resistor value on the tweeter from 4uF (ceramic) to 4.9uF (Mundorf MOX). This was too much so went down to 4.6UF (Jantzen) and was far better. Tweeter is not so forward and directed. The details the resistor changes was surprising. I even tested all sorts of Mox resistors at first with the original 4uF and could tell MOX were far better.
I then changed two 15uF electro caps for a 30uF (huge!) crosscap and 0.001uF 630v and a straight swap on the midrange 3.3 resistor from ceramic to Jantzen Mox and that was so much smoother in the midrange. So impressive to my sensitive ears.
I feel replacing resistors to Mox from Mundorf (best build) and Jantzen should be standard if improving loudspeakers and also other brand MOX resistors in front end equipment as I did with PSU and anolog input on a Yamaha amp this week. I will picture the crossover tomorrow to see if anyone thinks I can improve it further ��☺️
Thanks to all info on DIY Audio!
Firstly I felt the range on the woofers were too wide. Without wanting to mess with the inductors on them I increased the caps from x2 2.0uF to a 2.0uF and a 2.2uF. This dropping the range I was happy with. So installed a 2uF cross cap from Jantzen and 2.2uF by Claritycap ESR. Even though its only woofers the low end was so much precise compared to the electro of closest value.
I then wanted less range from the Seas tweeter I replaced as the standards blown. I increased the resistor value on the tweeter from 4uF (ceramic) to 4.9uF (Mundorf MOX). This was too much so went down to 4.6UF (Jantzen) and was far better. Tweeter is not so forward and directed. The details the resistor changes was surprising. I even tested all sorts of Mox resistors at first with the original 4uF and could tell MOX were far better.
I then changed two 15uF electro caps for a 30uF (huge!) crosscap and 0.001uF 630v and a straight swap on the midrange 3.3 resistor from ceramic to Jantzen Mox and that was so much smoother in the midrange. So impressive to my sensitive ears.
I feel replacing resistors to Mox from Mundorf (best build) and Jantzen should be standard if improving loudspeakers and also other brand MOX resistors in front end equipment as I did with PSU and anolog input on a Yamaha amp this week. I will picture the crossover tomorrow to see if anyone thinks I can improve it further ��☺️
Thanks to all info on DIY Audio!
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Hi Nigel, thanks for the info!
I seemed to hear much less grain straight away. This was previously annoying and capacitor changes only seemed to promote it further. The more Mox resistors I've added in the system the less 'squashed' the frequencies appear. The sound stage opened up slightly, bit by bit
Not dramatic, I'm not wanted to come across like they are complete system changes.
I can't say your wrong, as maybe the resistors were no good I have compared them too. Definitely can't tell a difference between brands of the same value
I seemed to hear much less grain straight away. This was previously annoying and capacitor changes only seemed to promote it further. The more Mox resistors I've added in the system the less 'squashed' the frequencies appear. The sound stage opened up slightly, bit by bit
Not dramatic, I'm not wanted to come across like they are complete system changes.
I can't say your wrong, as maybe the resistors were no good I have compared them too. Definitely can't tell a difference between brands of the same value
MOX resistors are inductive, no matter what manufacturers claim. The only non-inductive resistors are those that use an Ayrton-Perry winding. To save you some bucks - the highly praised Mills (non-inductive, using the above forementioned tech) are made by Vishay in their Mexico plant. You can go to digikey.co.uk and look up non-inductive wirewound resistors, you`ll find Vishay (probably the same as the Mills but far less costly), Ohmite and others. Non-inductive makes sense on tweeter only.
http://www.acoustic-dimension.com/mundorf/Resistors-vol5-no-3-HIFICritic.pdf
I use Jantzen Superes 10W and Mundorf MResist 20W.
Both are good, but the Mundorf 3* price.
Mills and Duelund are expensive too.
I use Jantzen Superes 10W and Mundorf MResist 20W.
Both are good, but the Mundorf 3* price.
Mills and Duelund are expensive too.
According to this page the inductance of a MOX resistor is at 3 – 200 nH. While that is technically true they aren't actually non-inductive, it's pretty close though. In a speaker crossover and its frequencies, you will not be able to hear any difference or measure it, even the repeat measurement error is quite higher than the influence of its inductance. Even the wires on your crossover got a higher inductance. To compare that, it's roughly in the same range of inductance like foil capacitors are. Your linked article speaks about "however, as seen in the test values, the inductance was essentially negligible." too.
I didn't say it's wrong that a lot of parts got different influence on the sound. I wanted to make clear, it's the wrong reason to avoid MOX resistors because of the inductance. MOX Rs sound a lot better than cement/wire resistors.
Jantzen got a very good to excellent P/V ratio and very good quality aswell. There are projects I'd probably use other brands or recycle some parts. Jantzen doesn't got all types of parts though. They don't have transformer core coils or bell housing coils i.e. but on the other hand you can get coils with such a vast number of different values, much more than most others do. That's a huge advantage, it saves the trouble and postage to order parts from different shops.
Prove it. Did you try Jans listening tests? Bet you cant tell which is the piece of wire and which is the tube amp. And if you cant hear that you cant hear any of the above.
There is also the other side of the arguement:
those who believe, often vehemently unfortunately, that there is palpable Audible difference where None exists, at least not reliably, replicably.
Wayyy too many faith based presumptions in Audio Weenie land IMO. And Far worse: exaggerated Marketing Claims
All of which ultimately / simply get in the way of genuine evolutionary progress.
those who believe, often vehemently unfortunately, that there is palpable Audible difference where None exists, at least not reliably, replicably.
Wayyy too many faith based presumptions in Audio Weenie land IMO. And Far worse: exaggerated Marketing Claims
All of which ultimately / simply get in the way of genuine evolutionary progress.
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I understand you Bare.
Frustrating seeing someone's opinion when personally experiencing otherwise
Am sure we all know we have to take opinions with a pinch of salt on these sites and understand we all want to improve our audio.
If one feels they have improved something that is good for them surely
I only posted this thread as for years I did not believe MOX resistors could benefit. A few quid ain't going to do much harm if someone wants to try themselves, understanding too many will think it's deluded
Frustrating seeing someone's opinion when personally experiencing otherwise
Am sure we all know we have to take opinions with a pinch of salt on these sites and understand we all want to improve our audio.
If one feels they have improved something that is good for them surely
I only posted this thread as for years I did not believe MOX resistors could benefit. A few quid ain't going to do much harm if someone wants to try themselves, understanding too many will think it's deluded
People used to say all speaker cables sound the same, all CD players sound the same, all amps sound the same, all capacitors sound the same and of course all resistors__________. The truth is every component has some effect on the sound big and small. I used to be in the camp of "how can this make a difference?" but after decades of "listening" I realized they all make a difference to some degree. If you can't hear the difference yourself I believe you haven't spent enough time testing parts on equipment that you are very familiar with or you just don't have the ability to. It may be a tough pill to swallow but I know a person with extensive experience who can't hear the difference so he default to "if you can't measure it it doesn't make a difference". This only leads back to all cables sound the same, all CD players sound the same......... The baffling part is the amplifier designer Nelson Pass, who he looks up to, says different brand parts do make a difference.
Showing respect for someone who has the ability to hears changes will go
along way to encourage further discovery for the benefit of everyone here.
Showing respect for someone who has the ability to hears changes will go
along way to encourage further discovery for the benefit of everyone here.
