3-way how would you do it?

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For a 3-way i’d first choose a good midTweeter. I’d cross that at 200-500 Hz to a midBass coupler, with multiple subwoofers (with DSP to minimize any room modes).
There is a lot to like. Crossover below 1kHz, tighter directivity at higher frequencies, room considered. The goals are very similar to those of the waveguide set... Goals that may count higher than the methods to achieve them.
 
I like the old-school approach of having crossover frequencies at approximately 500-700Hz & 5k-7kHz
(instead of the 200-300Hz & 2k-3kHz that are more common nowadays).

In other words:
Mid-woofer + Mid-range + (super)Tweeter
(instead of Woofer + mid-woofer + tweeter).

Marco

Here are some of the "old school" systems (most dating from the '80s & '90s) that I would use as conceptual models for a modern equivalent:


Yamaha NS-1000

Yamaha NS-2000
Diatone DS-2000
Diatone DS-20000
Kenwood LS-G5000
Kenwood LS-990HG

Food for thought...
 
I'd go for a wide and shallow cab rather than deep and narrow. No need to bother with baffle step 'correction'.

+1

Doing things like baffle step correction is completely idiotic when there is no need for a baffle step effect to be introduced.

Unless you are a commercial speaker designer and need to build what people know or can't look beyond what commercial designer have been doing lately.
(a poetic "lately")
 
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Joined 2017
+1

Doing things like baffle step correction is completely idiotic when there is no need for a baffle step effect to be introduced.

Unless you are a commercial speaker designer and need to build what people know or can't look beyond what commercial designer have been doing lately.
(a poetic "lately")


Some of my previous "towers" I did "level balancing" of the bass with the mids as:

2xwoofers in parallel

2xmids in series (or just 1 mid.; sensitivity is the same as 2 in series)

1 tweeter

The baffle width was just slightly larger than the woofer diameter in each case.

I had very good luck doing it this way; 6 1/2 in, 8 in and 10 in. Obviously, you need to have a good handle on the concept of +6 dB voltage sensitivity vs. +3 dB more "power" for any parallel woofer choices. (low freq.) X/O's were anywhere in the range of 300 to 600 Hz. If you choose the drivers carefully; you can get away with 1st order crossovers; just be sure to allow for the bump that can occur with too much overlap; separate the frequencies. If I remember from Dickason's "Cookbook", use a factor of about 1.2? For example; if you choose an inductor that gives you a calculated -3 dB point at say 400 Hz for the woofer; chose a capacitor for the mid. that gives a calculated -3 dB point at 1.2 times that or 480 Hz. I may not be remembering this exactly right but I always had very good results. I usually always do this when I can get away with it as opposed to any higher order X/O ("MY" personal tastes and opinions strong here!).

I almost always put sheet cork over the entire baffle surface; this gives the drivers a good seal (you don't have to do router recesses), dampens the baffle and helps absorb excess reflections, diffractions, etc. Not the most sophisticated approach but I was always very happy with the results. Everyone that heard these also thought why did they end up spending as much as 10 X more on their systems only to find they much preferred the sound of mine (Engineers, technical people and musicians included in this group of happy listeners). As always; I am never afraid to experiment and I always use my own 2 ears when doing final tuning and tweaking. Many different ways of doing custom designs; not one size fits all here.
 
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Joined 2017
I did a 3-way tower with two 10 in. woofers, two 4 in. mids and one tweeter. These were one of the best sounding large speakers I ever did. I tuned these to have an f3 of about 25 Hz and the woofers crossed to the mids. at about 500 Hz. We were listening to a CD where there were 2 bass drums; 1 tuned lower than the other. Well, 1 of these bass drums hit on the right channel woofers only followed by the lower tuned bass drum on the left woofers only. Very wide separation here. The point is; some recordings used to have "stereo" bass and yes; it was very obvious. This wasn't just the higher frequency components of the mallet hitting the drum head; this was the ENTIRE spectrum of the drum sound INCLUDING the deep bass portion. Just, for what it's worth, the ear CAN detect stereo bass, even the lower frequencies. Most recording Engineers would never even try to bother with such a thing because the lowest frequencies have such a large wavelength; why bother. I also did true stereo sub woofers once. These were only used below 40 Hz so one could NOT detect any stereo separation. I am found of using more than one subwoofer; it helps "smooth" out room modes when they are in physically different locations even if no longer "stereo".
 
Hello
thank you all for your kind generosity in the answers.
I expressed preferences but you feel free to express yours, I saw that there are different ways of dealing with the problem, I certainly take it into account.
another approach could be that of frequencies and acoustic pressure.
for example the human voice: 85Hz-1200KHz
but also tools:
for example :
50Hz-5.5KHz battery
82Hz-880KHz guitar
violin 196Hz 3.1KHz
regarding the shape and size of the case, could the famous golden ratio have some kind of positivity?
 
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