The glue will be fine. No harm in screwing them in back if you like though
Chamfer the internal woofer holes to let them breathe
I find those opens up the higher bass
chamfering driver holes
Chamfer the internal woofer holes to let them breathe
I find those opens up the higher bass
chamfering driver holes
I enjoy Troels site too.
It's a cheap stamped chassis with a fair lip on it already mate, the walls of the cabinet aren't terribly thick either so I don't think chamfering will yield much improvement?
If I decide to put a new midrange/fullrange in that will definitely need some work.
It's a cheap stamped chassis with a fair lip on it already mate, the walls of the cabinet aren't terribly thick either so I don't think chamfering will yield much improvement?
If I decide to put a new midrange/fullrange in that will definitely need some work.
Attachments
Makes sense then. I was thinking they are thin and won't be effective that much just now, logged back on re-check
Ordinarily, but maybe this particle board has been moisture affected considering its age.
Perth is a pretty dry spot but I might try screw them in anyway. Overall condition seems pretty good, the corners are a little dinged but I don't see any crumbling on the insides.
Hard to get much glue into a joint like yours, with the end grain compromising adhesion. Your box is really narrow so I would glue felt on the side walls near the woofer. My other standard trick not yet mentioned is to reinforce/damp the flat area on the basket between the struts and the magnet. It is a structural flaw that all high end drivers correct with the struts extending directly to the magnet structure. SB Satori for example. I use plumbers' putty. "Extreme Basket Tricks" is an old thread here that covers this subject.
I thought someone already mentioned plumbers putty on the chassis? I've done it myself years ago in a bass reflex 8" full range design, don't know if it helped at all though?
I don't have any felt but I do have heaps of the foam displayed in the first post so that will be getting liberally applied.
Now if anyone mentions EnABL I'll get cross
Cross bracing, along with shoring up the woofer's cabinet connection (even making a bad square of reinforcement behind the woofer and longer screws where you can helps here) are likely to give you the best bang for buck mechanically. Earl Gedlee recommends lossy cross braces for dampening, which makes sense. A little half-lap or laminated structure glued with a lossy adhesive (use whatever scraps you have!) to bridge across panels wouldn't hurt.
My description is no good. I'll try to make a picture. Other recommendations follow what's been given: internal ribs screwed only on the ends and again adhered with a flexible adhesive makes for a decent poor-man's CLD, too.
My description is no good. I'll try to make a picture. Other recommendations follow what's been given: internal ribs screwed only on the ends and again adhered with a flexible adhesive makes for a decent poor-man's CLD, too.
I have had good results from dampening the internal faces of the speaker cabinet. Like BBC style cabinets.
I have used rubber type carpet underlay in the past - Carpet tiles with bitumen layers are what I am using at the moment, stuck down with contact adhesive.
Don't over think it though, use what you can source and have fun!
The bracing you showed in post 39 will not be very effective as the braces need to be near to the middle of the panel to resist flex. Placing the braces a little off centre can help as the the differing lengths will have different resonant frequencies.
I have used rubber type carpet underlay in the past - Carpet tiles with bitumen layers are what I am using at the moment, stuck down with contact adhesive.
Don't over think it though, use what you can source and have fun!
The bracing you showed in post 39 will not be very effective as the braces need to be near to the middle of the panel to resist flex. Placing the braces a little off centre can help as the the differing lengths will have different resonant frequencies.
Fostex made a heavy solid brass "Adapter Ring" for the version of the FE208 ES Sigma that as far as I know was only released in Japan. Because that version of the driver had a double size magnet (two laminated together) I think they produced the adapter ring for those who had already built with "lesser" 208s who wanted to upgrade, holding the driver out from the baffle by the thickness of one lamination, thus keeping volumes inside the cab the same.
As well as the volume adjustment though, they had the effect of increasing the effective mass of the driver basket or effective baffle stiffness and you could easily hear the difference in transient clarity.
My guess is that if you add mass to the basket in the right way you could improve the driver a little.
As well as the volume adjustment though, they had the effect of increasing the effective mass of the driver basket or effective baffle stiffness and you could easily hear the difference in transient clarity.
My guess is that if you add mass to the basket in the right way you could improve the driver a little.
I have lost track of the number of these I have been given to "Play" with.
All these cheap Japanese brand speakers have one thing in common, cheap.
Years ago I would have invested days and dollars tarting them up and trying to make them better but in truth the improvements I made were slight apart from the benefits of lots of stuffing.
They sold so well because they actually sounded pretty good for the money, being a decent full range with tweeter and super tweeter assist.
Don't go overboard money wise.
All these cheap Japanese brand speakers have one thing in common, cheap.
Years ago I would have invested days and dollars tarting them up and trying to make them better but in truth the improvements I made were slight apart from the benefits of lots of stuffing.
They sold so well because they actually sounded pretty good for the money, being a decent full range with tweeter and super tweeter assist.
Don't go overboard money wise.
I pulled apart a set of technics a few months ago and they were of an identical "philosophy" design wise, cheap
I've no problem spending some time on them, I think bracing will yield some good results and I'm going to pick up a few pillows at kmart this evening, I reckon that's the cheapest way to get some polyester stuffing?
You think give the caps a miss? I'm tempted to pop into jaycar and grab them today too.
I pulled apart a set of technics a few months ago and they were of an identical "philosophy" design wise, cheap
You think give the caps a miss? I'm tempted to pop into jaycar and grab them today too.
Actually I think that recapping is a good idea, because the values are so small the cost isn't great if you use the cheaper CrossCap but I buy mine from Speakerbug
Capacitors
I've used the Jaycar caps and even I can tell the difference between the yellow Jaycar, the potted greencaps and the Jantzen CrossCap
But you run the risk of spending more than the purchase price on the tweak, only you can determine if there is value in that
Perhaps, but if the crossover isn't designed properly to start with, or if the values are wrong, or if the acoustics weren't considered or drivers run out of range, then it doesn't matter how much you spend.
Allen we are talking here about a specific 1uF cap on a super tweeter and a single 3.3uf on a tweeter and I think that the Japanese actually did a little bit on homework here.
If the OP stays with the factory selected values then I fail to see the relevance of the comment, please enlighten me.
I have a similar XO on a board in front of me right now although this one also has a small iron cored inductor as well, although these are 100V electrolytics and not the usual 35V found on the cheapest of the cheap
If the OP stays with the factory selected values then I fail to see the relevance of the comment, please enlighten me.
I have a similar XO on a board in front of me right now although this one also has a small iron cored inductor as well, although these are 100V electrolytics and not the usual 35V found on the cheapest of the cheap
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