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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Any threads on improving cheap speakers?
Any threads on improving cheap speakers?
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Old 16th April 2019, 12:17 AM   #21
StewartH83 is offline StewartH83  England
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Some great advice so far!

Personally, I dislike foam as better for higher frequencies. I prefer poly fill. It's about where it's placed and how much of it that's important. Poly fill is great fluffed up a bit after installing, with PVA is fine for anything to do with loudspeakers. I dislike placement on side walls, let the cabinet sound breath from the side walls and port only.

Bracing and selective placement of bitumen pads (used inside car doors to prevent vibration) this stuff is great on rear magnets and gives a stable sound and is great placed on rear wall, top and at times bottom.

I would replace the back wall with high quality plywood 18mm, cut 'picture frame' braces starting 1 third from the top of the cabinets. Experiment with wadding a bitumen. Get solid plates to sit on. Cheap poly cap on tweeter.

Brush sticks work better in threes in middle of panels yet picture frame braces are much better.

Rigid cabinets give great results

What sound do u want from them? What needs improving? Which music do you listen too?

Last edited by StewartH83; 16th April 2019 at 12:20 AM.
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Old 16th April 2019, 12:33 AM   #22
ewollowe is offline ewollowe  Australia
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Hi Stewart,

Yeah some cool ideas coming through, thanks for contributing.

The speakers aren't for me but a friend and his family. They'll be getting used for general tv/music/movies/gaming. My friend already has a good dedicated set up for more serious listening so this is just for casual use. They already sound better than the tv alone obviously but a few mods to up the ante without dipping too deep in my pockets will be cool.

Yes I have my doubts about purely using foam, I might grab a couple of cheap pillows to use behind the woofers.
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Old 16th April 2019, 12:42 AM   #23
StewartH83 is offline StewartH83  England
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You will learn a lot from tweaking them and will be fun.

I enjoy improving loudspeakers as much as I like building them from scratch

Yeah great idea on the pillows. Much better results than the foam. Foam is better than none yet deeper lows with poly fill.

Interested to see how you go. Do a 'knock' test on the walls to hear how bad factory cabinets sound. Although does not always benefit the sound making them more rigid. Worthy for what you want out of them
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Old 16th April 2019, 12:42 AM   #24
AllenB is online now AllenB  Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ewollowe View Post
Jaycar has some metal poly caps, not terribly expensive in the grand scheme of things but nearly the same price of the speaker to begin with
I have used them, they are good for the price. You can also use electrolytics, they are better value for the price.
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Old 16th April 2019, 01:52 AM   #25
Ron E is offline Ron E  United States
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I wouldn't worry about lost volume. Anything less than 10% (even 20%) is probably negligible.

What I would probably do for a $25 speaker is just replace caps (might want to make sure the drivers are functioning before bothering ) and add foam and/or pillow stuffing - the bracing is a lot of work for a $25 speaker.
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Old 16th April 2019, 01:18 PM   #26
ewollowe is offline ewollowe  Australia
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50/50 (ish) pva/water applied! I touched on the foam surrounds quite a bit (there was wine involved) hope this won't be detrimental?

One tweeter looks a little worse for wear, not just the dust cap but the cone itself. We'll see how they go, I didn't notice any tonal difference between left and right when playing.

Also found some of the speaker specs, seems it's rated at 88db, the tang band I have is 86db. I wonder if the woofer will drop down a little now that it's been treated?

https://www.sony.com.au/electronics/.../38603251M.pdf
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Old 16th April 2019, 01:30 PM   #27
ICG is offline ICG  Germany
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Originally Posted by Guerilla View Post
I imagine woodglue would hold the foam nicely.
It does.

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Maybe one can wind coils oneself?
You mean the crossover coils? Or the voice coil? To wind the VC yourself needs extensive manual labor on the driver, including dissolving the glue of the surround, spider, dust-cap, spider-coil contact, VC wire on the VC former and precisely re-adjust and assemble, glue everything back in place. Some glue types can't be dissolved non-destructively or the contact materials are dissolved too.

Crossover coils can ofcourse be wound by DIY. Usually it's cheaper and the windings tighter (and much less effort) if you'd just buy one value over the needed inductance and unwind a few windings.
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Old 16th April 2019, 01:41 PM   #28
ICG is offline ICG  Germany
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I forgot something: To swap coils to 'better' ones very likely does not improve the SQ! The serial resistance is part of the filter characteristics and that WILL change. In the bass it changes the Qt, so a lower resistance makes the deep bass thinner.
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Old 16th April 2019, 01:45 PM   #29
ewollowe is offline ewollowe  Australia
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I forgot something: To swap coils to 'better' ones very likely does not improve the SQ! The serial resistance is part of the filter characteristics and that WILL change. In the bass it changes the Qt, so a lower resistance makes the deep bass thinner.
I have seen more than a few threads when caps replaced with "superior" ones actually produced poorer results, perhaps for similar reasons to what you mention but there are no inductors in this simple design. I'm inclined to give a better set of caps a go.
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Old 16th April 2019, 01:53 PM   #30
ICG is offline ICG  Germany
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I have seen more than a few threads when caps replaced with "superior" ones actually produced poorer results, perhaps for similar reasons to what you mention but there are no inductors in this simple design. I'm inclined to give a better set of caps a go.
Yes, that can happen, usually it's worth changing the caps though. Better caps in series of the drivers very often give more clarity and resoluton. The caps parallel (to the - instead of the driver) change hardly anything.
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