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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Any threads on improving cheap speakers?
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Old 15th April 2019, 06:21 AM   #11
Guerilla is offline Guerilla  Denmark
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I cant see why Ewollove shouldnt spend time on this. If using scrap it will be free hand-on experience and learning
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Old 15th April 2019, 09:20 AM   #12
ewollowe is offline ewollowe  Australia
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Thanks for the excellent input guys. It seems I was on the right track but to get feedback/confirmation from experienced polishers is great.

So I think we're looking at stuffing with foam, cone doping (forgot about that one thank you phivates), upgrading the caps (local suggestions? would jaycar have these?) and bracing the cabs.

I might also replace the wiring as I have some higher gauge stuff around. Again as I have lots of this foam I might shape some around the front of the tweeter and midrange too, el cheapo diffraction be gone?

The tangband option I might leave but sticking an inductor on the woofer could be interesting.

I don't mind spending a little money on this, it's just good fun!
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Old 15th April 2019, 11:37 AM   #13
AllenB is offline AllenB  Australia
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Jaycar has plenty of appropriate caps. They have nothing too special but I wouldn't worry about that. What this project want is some consideration of its acoustic issues (the missing midrange), and a usable crossover. I wouldn't stress too much about the cable, provided it solders well enough.

It's too bad the Tangband needs too much work. Do you have anything that is already in a small enclosure that wants a woofer?

(PS, it's not that there is anything wrong with cone tweeters)
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Old 15th April 2019, 12:51 PM   #14
ewollowe is offline ewollowe  Australia
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Cap values are 1 and 3.3 micro farad, 50v. Jaycar has some metal poly caps, not terribly expensive in the grand scheme of things but nearly the same price of the speaker to begin with :/

3.3uF 250V Metallised Polypropylene Crossover Capacitor | Jaycar Electronics

1uF 250V Metallised Polypropylene Crossover Capacitor | Jaycar Electronics

The tang band would need some work physically to get it to fit well on top of the chamfering, it's an 871 so I'd imagine pretty down on sensitivity versus that 10" paper woofer too? I'm becoming more inclined to stay with the little cones.

"Do you have anything that is already in a small enclosure that wants a woofer?" I have bits and bobs all over the place, what are you thinking?
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Old 15th April 2019, 01:09 PM   #15
phivates is offline phivates  United States
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What you have is two tweeters, so unless you swap in a true mid and crossover you'll have to live with the 10" mid-woofer. Like pro sound! Cheap and cheerful!!
I would look at broomstick bracing the woofer mounting holes to the back of the box, so that skimpy front baffle is relieved of the vibration somewhat. The upper two anyway.
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Old 15th April 2019, 01:23 PM   #16
ewollowe is offline ewollowe  Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phivates View Post
What you have is two tweeters, so unless you swap in a true mid and crossover you'll have to live with the 10" mid-woofer. Like pro sound! Cheap and cheerful!!
I would look at broomstick bracing the woofer mounting holes to the back of the box, so that skimpy front baffle is relieved of the vibration somewhat. The upper two anyway.
I've got no real problem with that, I dabble with full range units so a 10" mid-woofer doesn't fill me with fear.

The sound is fine for $25, it's got some dynamics and bass, sounds best with simple things, I'd just like to eek a little more out of them

So the broom stick bracing, you mean 4 pieces to cover each screw hole? That's interesting.
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Old 15th April 2019, 02:43 PM   #17
phivates is offline phivates  United States
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I have put 2x2 (3.8x3.8 cm) sticks from front to back at the four mounting holes so that longer screws can be used and bracing implemented. The chipboard needs help one way or another.
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Old 15th April 2019, 11:11 PM   #18
Ron E is offline Ron E  United States
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For cheap, you can glue the 1" edge of a 1x2 (longest you can fit in the box) onto the side and back panels, vertically (the long way) just off center. The front to back braces near the woofer are a good idea. Any film cap (even mylar) will be better than electrolytics.

Lining or stuffing the box will help a lot, but keep it from touching the woofer or blocking the basket cutouts.

These boxes may be quite sensitive, see if you can find the specs. Rather than putting in a "midrange" it would be easier to just add a fullrange to the box and cross it in at 500Hz or so.
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Old 15th April 2019, 11:27 PM   #19
ewollowe is offline ewollowe  Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phivates View Post
I have put 2x2 (3.8x3.8 cm) sticks from front to back at the four mounting holes so that longer screws can be used and bracing implemented. The chipboard needs help one way or another.
I think I'll give this a go.
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Old 15th April 2019, 11:35 PM   #20
ewollowe is offline ewollowe  Australia
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Thanks Ron, I need to do a bit more research on the cheap caps as I'm not too familiar with whats good or bad

The fullrange idea is what I had in mind. I have my concerns about the added cost/complexity there but I haven't discounted it yet.

Would the addition of foam compensate for the volume lost to the vertical reinforcement with the 1x2?
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