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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Exposed ply cabinet build
Exposed ply cabinet build
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Old 13th March 2019, 06:30 AM   #11
classicalfan is offline classicalfan  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boswald View Post
When Dave says a whole lot of sanding, he isn't kidding.
And you're sanding a lot of glue, and power tools will have fun with all the grain directions(and clog media very quickly).
So a lot of that whole lot o'fun will be by hand.

But if you are willing and able, it can look very cool.

Have fun, show us pictures!

p.s. seal w/epoxy!
I donít know how much woodworking experience Dave and boswald have, but there is no reason to believe excessive sanding will be necessary. If you do the glue ups properly with the right amount of glue a small bead will develop along each seam from the glue oozing out between the boards when you clamp them together.

Do not attempt to wipe it off while the glue is wet. You will make a huge mess and then a lot of sanding will be necessary.

Instead let the beads dry for about 20 to 30 minutes until they become firm, but not fully hardened. Then use a razor blade or sharp chisel and just peel away the beads of glue. Done carefully there will be almost no glue left on the surface of the wood. A light sanding may be necessary in spots, but certainly nothing like the situation that boswald described.
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Old 13th March 2019, 08:14 AM   #12
RobWells is offline RobWells  United Kingdom
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I made a translam cab a while ago. If I was to do another I'd make the 1st layer to size and cut all the rest 1mm bigger all round. Then each layer can be glued and flush trimmed with a router. This would have saved me an awful lot of sanding / finishing.

Rob.
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Old 13th March 2019, 05:09 PM   #13
boswald is offline boswald  United States
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Exposed ply cabinet build
I wasn't talking about excess from assembly, but the -1 layers of the plywood(12 in 13 layer,etc). Squeezeout is a doddle.
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Old 13th March 2019, 06:53 PM   #14
classicalfan is offline classicalfan  United States
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Originally Posted by boswald View Post
I wasn't talking about excess from assembly, but the -1 layers of the plywood(12 in 13 layer,etc). Squeezeout is a doddle.
And Rob's method above pretty well takes care of any size mismatches. Again, I see no reason to have to resort to excessive sanding with a well thought out build plan.
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Old 13th March 2019, 09:41 PM   #15
cdurocher is offline cdurocher  Canada
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Thanks all... I have access to a CNC, a laser cutter, a belt sander and pretty much anything else I might like to learn to use. I have no real woodworking experience, but I want to gain it.

Honestly, I'm not worried about the waste since the components have cost me way more than the wood. It will be a 2-way design with an 8" woofer (Dayton DSA215), a horn (B&C 250 driver mated to a Faital-Pro LTH102 waveguide), and a passive radiator (Dayton DSA270-PR). Last night I changed the PR and increased the volume to 27L. Cross-over will be active. Wood cost is really the least of my financial issues with this build. I just want the coolest looking and best sounding speakers and I want to build them myself - no matter how long it takes. I'm already 3 months in on research of how to design a speaker.

With the "translam" design, do you still recommend a vertical brace? I suppose I could use the cut-out from any one of the middle panels to create one.

Dave, we had talked about your (eventual) designs for the A7MS a while back by email. I am still interested in building that set of speakers, but probably for a friend, once those drivers become available... I've designed the above for my living room and I'm committed to it now having purchased the components and exhausted the budget already :-)
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Old 13th March 2019, 09:46 PM   #16
cdurocher is offline cdurocher  Canada
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Rob,

That sounds like great advice in terms of build plan.

I'll cut 1mm extra on all sides and trim to size with a hand router. (The CNC can't handle 9" thickness, unfortunately). That is the excuse I need to learn to use a hand router :-)

Also, I was planning to stitch together the layers with screws, which will hopefully help prevent the layers from separating.

Colin
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Old 13th March 2019, 10:43 PM   #17
richardr is offline richardr  United States
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Default Translam

If it is for a passive radiator box then the translam build may be overkill. I built a sealed box with translam and a 1/2" Al plate in front with bracing at 2" thick for a sealed box and it worked. It is easy to do with less woodworking skills if you have the great jigsaw and a nail gun to help with the gluing.
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Old 13th March 2019, 10:48 PM   #18
RobWells is offline RobWells  United Kingdom
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I did vertical braces in mine by cutting slots into the inner sides and then sliding the braces in once glued.

Dug up some old pics I can't believe it was 16 years ago! Finish was walnut veneer. You can see the slots in the 1st pic I hadn't put the braces in yet.

Rob.
Attached Images
File Type: png trans1.png (200.9 KB, 83 views)
File Type: png trans2.png (121.2 KB, 83 views)
File Type: png trans3.png (144.4 KB, 77 views)
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Old 13th March 2019, 11:56 PM   #19
classicalfan is offline classicalfan  United States
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Originally Posted by cdurocher View Post
Rob,

That sounds like great advice in terms of build plan.

I'll cut 1mm extra on all sides and trim to size with a hand router. (The CNC can't handle 9" thickness, unfortunately). That is the excuse I need to learn to use a hand router :-)

Also, I was planning to stitch together the layers with screws, which will hopefully help prevent the layers from separating.

Colin
This is very difficult to do with a hand router, because you only have the 1" width of the inside piece frame to balance it on. The router can then easily tip and put a gouge into the edge. Even with experience it's hard to prevent the router from tipping as you move it around.

A much better method it to use a router table to trim the excess so there is no possibility of tipping the bit.

Also, I would leave more than 1 mm excess on the boards. With 1 mm, which is only 1/32" the glue up alignment is much more difficult than it has to be. About 1/4" oversize would leave 1/8" to be trimmed off on each edge, which is no problem for the router trim bit.
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Old 14th March 2019, 07:57 AM   #20
RobWells is offline RobWells  United Kingdom
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My router table is just a 3 foot square of mdf with a hole / 4 bolt holes in the middle for a normal hand router to bolt in. It needn't be complicated.

Another option is to made a longer 'foot' for the hand router if you cannot hold it in place on the narrow strips (one of mine has a 12" x 4" base permanently attatched) edit : long enough to bridge both sides for stability.

If the Colin has access to cnc then he can put in location holes for dowels / pins to locate properly before routing.

Rob.

Last edited by RobWells; 14th March 2019 at 08:10 AM.
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