Mikej56 I have the older sibling of those Akai in bits in my stash or at least something very like them with white cones. You can do a lot better. TBH I would simply use the original Sansui box dimensions and make them sealed and stuff them full.
The Akai woofer is an OK midrange but let down by the XO and those awful sealed back cone tweeters
The Akai woofer is an OK midrange but let down by the XO and those awful sealed back cone tweeters
Hi Moondog,
I have the older Akias like the ones you're talking about, these are a lot better. I ran a sweep signal from an online test source through these and they produced the same amplitude at 40 Hz as at 100Hz, so they can't be all bad. My friend has a set of Tannoy floor standers and these Akias sound much better at the lower end. Again, it depends on the material you're listening to. Sometimes I think the term 'Hi-Fi' has lost its original meaning - reproducing the original sound. With the electronically produced music that most people listen to today there is no 'original sound' so the aim is to have maximum bass and maximum driver excursion. Music created with real instruments doesn't sound like that in real life, so in a small room where I'm sitting about 8 feet from the speakers it's easy enough to reproduce an orchestra without all that fuss. Every time I have been at a concert, come home and play a CD I am amazed that this little system reproduces a sound as life-like as that I've just experienced in the concert hall.
If I didn't port the Sansui woofers would the box not have to be much bigger?
Regards
Mike
I have the older Akias like the ones you're talking about, these are a lot better. I ran a sweep signal from an online test source through these and they produced the same amplitude at 40 Hz as at 100Hz, so they can't be all bad. My friend has a set of Tannoy floor standers and these Akias sound much better at the lower end. Again, it depends on the material you're listening to. Sometimes I think the term 'Hi-Fi' has lost its original meaning - reproducing the original sound. With the electronically produced music that most people listen to today there is no 'original sound' so the aim is to have maximum bass and maximum driver excursion. Music created with real instruments doesn't sound like that in real life, so in a small room where I'm sitting about 8 feet from the speakers it's easy enough to reproduce an orchestra without all that fuss. Every time I have been at a concert, come home and play a CD I am amazed that this little system reproduces a sound as life-like as that I've just experienced in the concert hall.
If I didn't port the Sansui woofers would the box not have to be much bigger?
Regards
Mike
I guess it depends, try the sock in the hole trick with the port and listen but I always thought that a ported box would be bigger than a sealed but IB would be bigger
I couldn’t find my nice little Nikons, with the Buschnils i couldn’t focus in close enuff
dave
The speakers were REAL cheap because one woofer was toast. I have tried to give it away. Up there it is out of the way and sort of a decoration — i have them all over.
dave
Very much appreciated GM,
If the baffle, and all of the cabinet walls are 18mm the volume would be 65 L.
Internal depth would be 244mm.
I can only afford 'mickey mouse speakers'. If you knew what I was listening to now, you'd really laugh
Mike
You're welcome!
Been there, done that! For a variety of reasons I've only had a couple cheap mono clock radios for ~the last 15 yrs until recently I finally was able to 'upgrade' to a stereo pair of 'closet queens' 1st gen. [late '70s?] Radio Shack Minimus 7 mini-monitors that need new caps, so while 'MM' speakers leave a lot to be desired, got to be at least an order of magnitude better.
Anyway, was just trying to make a point.
GM
edit: OK, but how big a hole can you make down in the corners or is your layout got plenty of room for a single large vent, which would be a little shorter?
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Sd = ~856.34 cm^2/3 = ~285 cm^2 = ~19 mm dia.
Hmm, a ~minimum vent for 25 Hz = 19 cm dia. x 150 cm long!
Well, with 160 W power handling I imagine its tiny vents choked it down pretty good, so what's the cab's longest dimension and available power?
May need to measure its specs and build new cabs.
GM
Hmm, a ~minimum vent for 25 Hz = 19 cm dia. x 150 cm long!
Well, with 160 W power handling I imagine its tiny vents choked it down pretty good, so what's the cab's longest dimension and available power?
May need to measure its specs and build new cabs.
GM
The longest internal dimension is 631mm .
I have a couple of 80W rms amplifiers, so plenty of power although I had hoped to make use of the 98dB/watt/Mtr sensitivity of these so that I could drive them with a class A amp. It was this that led me to buying these woofers in the first place.
Since I'm building new cabs anyway it doesn't matter - they can be as big as it takes. The only reason for copying the original design was to save having to calculate all of this.
If the design has to be started from scratch I would prefer a closed box/ infinite baffle, but if we waited in the hope that someone answers the request to measure the ports it would save you a lot of trouble.
Mike
I have a couple of 80W rms amplifiers, so plenty of power although I had hoped to make use of the 98dB/watt/Mtr sensitivity of these so that I could drive them with a class A amp. It was this that led me to buying these woofers in the first place.
Since I'm building new cabs anyway it doesn't matter - they can be as big as it takes. The only reason for copying the original design was to save having to calculate all of this.
If the design has to be started from scratch I would prefer a closed box/ infinite baffle, but if we waited in the hope that someone answers the request to measure the ports it would save you a lot of trouble.
Mike
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