Since the real source is nothing like the theory, theoretical crossover shapes for the LP will never work right. You must end up with the correct curve after it goes through both the X-over and the driver. People who use fixed "named" electrical crossovers will not find that they work out like you want when joined to real-world drivers.
I am so sorry, I misread your Email. You are correct. If the wavelength is larger than the mouth then the directivity is pretty much determined by the mouth diameter and the waveshaping aspects of a waveguide are lost,so lots of things can happen.
Gotcha, and very true.
I have happily found out (thx to Pos) how to get the electrical response of a crossover to equal the measured acoustic response of both crossover and driver.
It does require a fair amount of active IIR EQ's, but it doesn't depend on FIR or linear phase.
And I think it kinda makes it where there is no good reason to use anything other than fully complementary LR crossovers...just choose your order, and whether you want minimum or linear phase.
I never use LR crossovers and my crossovers are never even symmetric. I use what works best and have never found that "named" crossovers work. Actively it's pretty easy to do, but passively is another story.
Well, that Celestion CD certainly looks amazing, why is it not very popular? And why aren't we talking about it more? Only because of the price when old stuff sells for much more?
Dave: what would happen if rater than horizontal woofers or stacked woofers you placed oe right next to the horn and the second woofer around the corner on a side panel?
Tonight, I'll have to settle for this (x2 = 4 point):
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2 pairs of Sony SUP based MTMs and yes, those are 15" woofers.
GM wants me to build this and put in my basement, average Michigan basement, maybe 8ft high lol?
This is what the SUP-H11 horns look like from the front:
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I hope not. I think what I wrote reflects this.
Of course, there are differences in our requirements and cost/benefit trade-offs.
My home acoustics are different from the typical American (plasterboard construction), just for a start.
Can you post any pics?
I am curious to see how you fabricated and what you came up with for the throat transition, mouth shape and so on.
I assume this was a while back, these days CNC fabrication is commonplace - a CNC router to cut a foam pattern seems routine.
This is the key, I think I can improve the vertical polars both above and thru the crossover frequency but I need to confirm this.
When you say "deflector" do you mean absorber or reflector?
Some treatment is on my to-do list too.
But it would still be nice to have the better vertical polars, makes a more tolerant speaker and a little more efficient.
Ideally I don't want to sent sound upwards and then have to put an absorber up there to soak it up.
Yes, I commented on this in a prior post.
Best wishes
David
Hi Moray
In my speakers it wouldn't fit... there isn't much in the way of side panels, the box has slanted front face to aim the woofer and blend with the horn.
But I have tried to work out some alternative set ups.
This idea could probably be made to work well with correct crossover to match the phases and amplitudes for both on axis and nice polars.
Main problem is simply that it will be very expensive.
JBL used 4 woofers close packed in a diamond pattern (tall vertically) for some expensive cinema installations.
Best wishes
David
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So as I follow the thread almost since day one Ill ask a recap question that might help concentrate the HF options.
From the available for sale CDs if you want to crossover a 15in at a max of 800 (I would prefer less) and pay 500eur or less per side (so no cellestion 1000usd) what are the hifi (low power) top options?
Ive seen so many recommendations for different configurations that I dont know if there is a general verdict. Most CDs go up nicely to 17-18k but Im not sure which actually does a quality job up to 20k (not that my ears go over 15 but thats another thing).
Im planning to order a 4594he if I can’t get a single driver alternative.
Ill probably make a tratrix wood horn (300hz-400 size or thereabouts) for it or an 18sound as a of the shelf thing.
From the available for sale CDs if you want to crossover a 15in at a max of 800 (I would prefer less) and pay 500eur or less per side (so no cellestion 1000usd) what are the hifi (low power) top options?
Ive seen so many recommendations for different configurations that I dont know if there is a general verdict. Most CDs go up nicely to 17-18k but Im not sure which actually does a quality job up to 20k (not that my ears go over 15 but thats another thing).
Im planning to order a 4594he if I can’t get a single driver alternative.
Ill probably make a tratrix wood horn (300hz-400 size or thereabouts) for it or an 18sound as a of the shelf thing.
