Greetings, i am doing a bit of a restore on a pair of Glendale XP2 and was wondering if anyone knows what the value of the metal oxide resistor should be, the existing ones are showing signs of what looks like heat damage or just the colour coding is deteriorating, the existing ones are also reading two values,one at 152.3 ohm and the other at 165.3 ohm
Want to replace them but need the proper value, thanks.
Want to replace them but need the proper value, thanks.
Can you not verify the colour because they are so badly discoloured? Could you tell us what you think the colours are or post an image?
If you lookup resistor values from the E12 or E24 series values they could be 150, 154 or 160, 162 ohms.
I have tried a google search for Glendale XP2 crossover/images and there are a few images, but I cannot read the 1/2 watt colour code. There is a big green 5W 21ohm nearby. Is that your crossover?
As they wont be too expensive you could buy new 3/4 or 1 watt values and select by ear. I am making the assumption the differences will be subtle.
Enjoy them.
If you lookup resistor values from the E12 or E24 series values they could be 150, 154 or 160, 162 ohms.
I have tried a google search for Glendale XP2 crossover/images and there are a few images, but I cannot read the 1/2 watt colour code. There is a big green 5W 21ohm nearby. Is that your crossover?
As they wont be too expensive you could buy new 3/4 or 1 watt values and select by ear. I am making the assumption the differences will be subtle.
Enjoy them.
Being a relatively high value resistor, it is likely to be in parallel with an inductor to do some high frequency shaping. Have a look at the circuit board traces to see if you can verify this.
As suggested by raymondj, replace with a resistor of the same order of magnitude as you have measured, but of a higher wattage rating.
As suggested by raymondj, replace with a resistor of the same order of magnitude as you have measured, but of a higher wattage rating.
i have just recently purchased these and there is no sign that they have been modified as all the soldering looks untouched, and the previous owner had them since new,the inductor is supposed to be there according to a lot of images i have looked at on MR google, the tweeters are not working but that seems to be a common issue with the type of tweeter that was used at the time, and the resistor does appear to be in parallel with one of the inductors.I have emailed Wharfedale UK to see if they have any archive info on what the value of the resistor might be, i might be lucky but wont hold my breath. thanks
Yes, I see now that the crossovers are as intended.
Just replace the resistor with a 160 ohm 1W one. A variation of +/- 10 ohms is unlikely to be audible in this frequency shaping role.
The current Wharfedale UK won't be able to help identify the resistor as they don't hold records from the time of your Glendales.
Give more details re your faulty tweeters, someone may be able to help with their repair or replacement.
Just replace the resistor with a 160 ohm 1W one. A variation of +/- 10 ohms is unlikely to be audible in this frequency shaping role.
The current Wharfedale UK won't be able to help identify the resistor as they don't hold records from the time of your Glendales.
Give more details re your faulty tweeters, someone may be able to help with their repair or replacement.
Here's some information on Glendale XP2 tweeter repair:
RE: Wharfedale Glendale XP2 - Tweeters are out! - Alfixit - Speaker Asylum
RE: Wharfedale Glendale XP2 - Tweeters are out! - Alfixit - Speaker Asylum
Glendale
Hi there, thanks for you help, i have actually come across that info on the tweeter repair,looks as if it is almost a surgical procedure, as the coil wire is so thin, mine has the same problem as the one in the article, but still may be repairable, although the coil wire has broken right at the dome of the tweeter so may be impossible to get enough conductor to work with without damaging the dome, looking at a couple of possible modification options as well.
Appreciate the advice, we need to keep this old gear alive
Hi there, thanks for you help, i have actually come across that info on the tweeter repair,looks as if it is almost a surgical procedure, as the coil wire is so thin, mine has the same problem as the one in the article, but still may be repairable, although the coil wire has broken right at the dome of the tweeter so may be impossible to get enough conductor to work with without damaging the dome, looking at a couple of possible modification options as well.
Appreciate the advice, we need to keep this old gear alive
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