Ceramic 4-way 1st ORDER (bang for the buck)
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 Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

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 21st February 2019, 11:04 AM #11 MasterSplinterJG54 diyAudio Member   Join Date: Jan 2019 Also, I have noticed that the resistance of the L- Inductor component of the LCR circuit has to be accounted for in the total value of the R component of the same circuit, correct? I will use series LCR circuit on the SB26 CAC -4 tweeter: C = 34.44 uF Inductor L = 1.55 mH Resistor Rc = 5.977450980392158 Ohms using a 0.39 OHM 1.55mH inductor, The Resistor has to be 5.977 - 0.390 = 5.607 OHM. Can someone verity these series LCR calculations for the SB26CAC? Last edited by MasterSplinterJG54; 21st February 2019 at 11:21 AM.
 21st February 2019, 01:00 PM #12 ggetzoff   diyAudio Member     Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Southwest Dear MS, I'm not sure where to even start with you: but here I go! You need to do some reading on loudspeaker design. Start with a simple 2-way, with known good data, frequency response data, impedance data (FRD, ZMA). Do some reading on how loudspeaker drivers are measured. Software: I would suggest Jeff Bagby's PCD for software, check out the windows based version, WINPCD. Loudspeaker performance is predicated on having good data, then modeling that data properly, so, watch or read some tutorials on it. Let the drivers tell you where they should be crossed over (I do this with every project). When you say 1st order, you need to clarify what that means, electrical or acoustical. This project of yours is way too much with what skills you have. I would massively reduce your plans and try to produce a speaker with 2 drivers that actually achieves acceptable performance. You can start modeling with known good designs to see what a good design looks like in the modeling software of your choosing. Good luck. Greg __________________ Airline Pilot-If it's not Boeing I'm not going. Aleph J, DCB1, VHEX + USSA-5, BA-3 Pre, DCG3, USSPA, Transcendent Sound Masterpiece
 21st February 2019, 07:43 PM #13 MasterSplinterJG54 diyAudio Member   Join Date: Jan 2019 I'm talking about 1st order electrical. I tried to be precise, Im challenging myself to get it right.. people have asked why 4-way in the first place, well I believe its easier to get right than a 3 way, even more than a 2-way because the drivers are actually playing full beams on a more narrow spectrum. I understand your concerns, and I understand I wont have a true 1st order acoustical nor am I trying to. 1st order electrical gives minimum components. That was the design goals. If you've bothered to look, the sensitivity of the drivers in intended frequencies is closely matched, and if you looked into the given paraments further, you'd notice a built in slope, with higher frequencies fading 1.5db minimum above midrange. Anyway, let's keep this constructive.
ggetzoff
diyAudio Member

Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Southwest
Quote:
 Originally Posted by MasterSplinterJG54 I'm talking about 1st order electrical. I tried to be precise, Im challenging myself to get it right.. people have asked why 4-way in the first place, well I believe its easier to get right than a 3 way, even more than a 2-way because the drivers are actually playing full beams on a more narrow spectrum. I understand your concerns, and I understand I wont have a true 1st order acoustical nor am I trying to. 1st order electrical gives minimum components. That was the design goals. If you've bothered to look, the sensitivity of the drivers in intended frequencies is closely matched, and if you looked into the given paraments further, you'd notice a built in slope, with higher frequencies fading 1.5db minimum above midrange. Anyway, let's keep this constructive.
Yes, I was putting you on a path of success with the suggestion of a simple 2-way..

I've been building and designing loudspeakers for about 30 years and your goal of designing and building a 4-way loudspeaker is very unrealistic. You need to learn how this stuff works, and it's cumulative. Study, design, test, model, and build your projects.

I will not speak for others, so I'll just say if you stay on this course I am out. If you want to learn how to design and build loudspeakers I am in.

Cheers,

Greg
__________________
Airline Pilot-If it's not Boeing I'm not going.
Aleph J, DCB1, VHEX + USSA-5, BA-3 Pre, DCG3, USSPA, Transcendent Sound Masterpiece

 21st February 2019, 11:10 PM #15 WaVeInFoRm diyAudio Member   Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: England in some ways using 4 drivers with matching sensitivity and a range that allows a simple crossovers should mean it simpler actually.
 21st February 2019, 11:17 PM #16 WaVeInFoRm diyAudio Member   Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: England 2 way only really works with a titchy woofer that may as well be the mid bass with a added pair of woofers. better to make that titcy midwoofer a not so titchy midwoofer. something like 6.5 inch and then add a 4 inch mid between that and the tweeter and thus have enough usable bandwidth on each speaker driver to make the dividing network simpler.. I can see the logic.
 21st February 2019, 11:21 PM #17 Bill poster   diyAudio Member     Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Bangkok/London A 4 way with minimum xo components wd require perfectly matched drivers ie sensitivity and baffle step I guess are ticked?
 21st February 2019, 11:33 PM #18 WaVeInFoRm diyAudio Member   Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: England baffle step relates to speaker design with any number of drivers. in regard to pristinely matched sensitivity of drivers, im sure with any number of drivers some amount of resistance applyed is normal. and makes no difference be it 2 way or 4 way or 10 way.
 21st February 2019, 11:35 PM #19 WaVeInFoRm diyAudio Member   Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: England active could be a advantage over passive in this regard.
tsmith1315
diyAudio Member

Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Doerun, GA
Quote:
 Originally Posted by MasterSplinterJG54 the sensitivity of the drivers in intended frequencies is closely matched, and if you looked into the given paraments further, you'd notice a built in slope, with higher frequencies fading 1.5db minimum above midrange.
Be aware that expecting 1.5dB accuracy between the datasheet and the actual driver in your hand may be optimistic.
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