I've just bought a new Dayton DSP to replace the old Behringer CX3400. Do I still need to keep the big capacitors I placed in line with the midrange/Tweeter section or can I take them out?
Midrange is the Vifa P-13 and the Tweeter is the Vifa D27 and I have a ~300uF cap bundle in line between the input and the midrange driver. Somebody suggested this as a safety measure when I was assembling the speakers, as a just in case measure. I guess there is always the possibility of putting the bass amp output into the wrong terminal. I've done dumber things before I guess. If it is a good idea still then a capacitor question. Is a single large capacitor better than /different from a bundle of lower value capacitors and is there a great benefit form using 400V caps rather than 100V capacitors? Going through my stash I have just found some 400V caps that could be bundled to replace the cheap 100V caps I got from Jaycar decades ago
Midrange is the Vifa P-13 and the Tweeter is the Vifa D27 and I have a ~300uF cap bundle in line between the input and the midrange driver. Somebody suggested this as a safety measure when I was assembling the speakers, as a just in case measure. I guess there is always the possibility of putting the bass amp output into the wrong terminal. I've done dumber things before I guess. If it is a good idea still then a capacitor question. Is a single large capacitor better than /different from a bundle of lower value capacitors and is there a great benefit form using 400V caps rather than 100V capacitors? Going through my stash I have just found some 400V caps that could be bundled to replace the cheap 100V caps I got from Jaycar decades ago
I've never added a series cap in my nearly 20 years of building with DSP and everything I design and build is active nowadays. Most people claim it's to prevent DC damage, as such a large cap isn't going to stop a lot of bass energy that could damage most tweets.
Keep it there if it makes you feel better.
Keep it there if it makes you feel better.
the main reason is in case your amp or its driving circuitry has a serious turn-on or turn-off transient. A number of older models did (output would rise up for some hundreds of milliseconds then drop down, possibly enough to mash a tweeter voice coil). If your system powers or powers down with good behavior including power company dropouts, then you probably don't need. If you're trying to do this with old Phase Linear 400s or the like you probably do.
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