Crossover build

[ggidzinski]

I am working on my first crossover network from scratch, probably a 2nd order 2-way. My questions are twofold:

1) Is there any difference in performance if I build them with point to point on a perf board vs using a stock foil board with the large pads/grounds?

2) Most of the stock foil boards are only for the basic 4 components plus maybe a fuse. What do you guys do for L pad resistors, Zobel, BSC etc? Is everything on the same board or is there a second board?

Thanks,

George

 

[wolf_teeth]

Everything is on the same board for me, unless a single board will not fit. I use p-to-p wiring and try to use as few jumpers as possible, so layout is important.

Keep coils at orthogonal positions to each other if closely placed. Try to keep coils away from other metals in the box, as this will affect value, this includes driver magnets. Use Brass/Nylon mounting screws if screwing them down.

Try to keep breathing room around resistors in case they get hot, and use 10-15W minimum value.

I prefer pegboard and zip-ties, and maybe some glue if required. My glue of choice is E6000, and I use any old 80# tensile strength ties unless using small ones for resistors.

I've attached one of many examples.

Hope this helps,
Wolf

 

[eriksquires]

I've done some measurements and testing using DATS. Turns out those foil areas can couple with coils in unexpected ways.



Unless you absolutely had to, I'd do point to point all the way, or avoid using any foil conductors under a coil.


Best,


E

 

[Lojzek]

Before dissmising an idea entirely without a shred of evidence, particularly not understanding the impact of a potential change in inductor's inductance, which could be far less than the part value tolerance, I would advise not to worry about it.

 

[eriksquires]

The issue wasn't that the inductance was changed, but that large lands under a coil can make a significant capacitor like coupling possible between the land under the coil and the coil.

 

[Jonny English]

I've done some measurements and testing using DATS. Turns out those foil areas can couple with coils in unexpected ways.



Unless you absolutely had to, I'd do point to point all the way, or avoid using any foil conductors under a coil.


Best,


E

Hi, can you advise the type of wire used to connect caps/ coils / resistors please. Is solid copper wire fine, is there a specific gauge that's best? Many thanks Jon

 

[waxx]

In, and many who don't use pcbs, solder parts to each other or use normal speaker wire (the ones you can buy cheap in bulk in most electronic stores).

Solid wire has no use for this, and is hard to connect to the parts, multistranded is way easier to work with and is as good.

 

[Douglas Blake]

Hi, can you advise the type of wire used to connect caps/ coils / resistors please. Is solid copper wire fine, is there a specific gauge that's best? Many thanks Jon

Take a look at the leads on the parts ... any wire thicker than that is going to be just fine. Stranded is easier to work with, solid is easier to solder.

 

[Jonny English]

Take a look at the leads on the parts ... any wire thicker than that is going to be just fine. Stranded is easier to work with, solid is easier to solder.

Very helpful, many thanks!

 

[tuantran]

I like to use 16 AWG bare tinned copper to connect components (see picture). I connect 8 of 1uF capacitors to make 2 of 4uF capacitors.

 

[tuantran]

16 AWG solid bare tinned copper is better because there are vibrations of low frequencies inside speaker enclosure. It also is very easy for soldering.