Hi everybody.
I honestly have no idea if I should be posting this in two different subforums (fr and sub) or if t's ok here since it's effectively a multi-way system. I'll let the mods decide. Anyways, let's get on to the topic.
I'm trying to build a 2.1 system for my 4k TV which has a weird (read dumb) way of managing headphones out audio (I have to look under two submenus to get to it, and can't do anything to change this behaviour), so I can't use it as a source to control volume. But I think I have this sorted out: I was thinking of using a 2.1 fx audio class d board paired with a remote controlled fx audio preamp (a main board, a pot and and ir receiver essentially); if you have any tips about this, too, I wouldn't mind some help, but I understand it's out of topic. I already have an optical DAC so that's not a problem.
Talking about the speakers, I was thinking about using one Dayton PS95 per channel in 3.5 liter enclosures. And by doing sims for both sealed and vented boxes, I've found that they more or less work well with the same dimensions.
1. Do you think that building them vented for when they're alone and then plugging the port when used with a sub would be a smart solution? Because it sure does seem like it on paper
About the boxes, I would like them to be very shallow in order to be wall mounted, for both aesthetic purposes and to maybe tame a bit the baffle step effect, since I will have no way to eq the drivers (neither do I want to complicate such a low expectations project by building a crossover). This would make it impossible to use a horizontal port as usual:
2. Would it be the same if I used a vertical reflex port firing downwards?
3. Also, do you see any problems with a very shallow box, if stuffed properly?
About the sub. I really want to spend the least amount of money possible, so I immediately found the Dayton DC160-8 appealing. Yeah, sure, low xmax, but the SPL will never go high enough to worry about it, methinks. I've tried simulating it in a 17 liter vented box tuned to 40hz, and it seems to work quite well, going down to 35 hz without any problems at my requested SPL.
4. Is there something I haven't found that betrays this driver's very low price point?
5. What do you think in general about a system like this? Are there any other drivers I should be considering in this price range?
I hope I was clear enough and I thank anybody that would take the time to help me. Also, I'm sorry if the numbered questions come through as rude, but I was told in a previous thread to organise them like that to make it easier for them to be answered.
Thanks again and I wish evverybody a good day.
I honestly have no idea if I should be posting this in two different subforums (fr and sub) or if t's ok here since it's effectively a multi-way system. I'll let the mods decide. Anyways, let's get on to the topic.
I'm trying to build a 2.1 system for my 4k TV which has a weird (read dumb) way of managing headphones out audio (I have to look under two submenus to get to it, and can't do anything to change this behaviour), so I can't use it as a source to control volume. But I think I have this sorted out: I was thinking of using a 2.1 fx audio class d board paired with a remote controlled fx audio preamp (a main board, a pot and and ir receiver essentially); if you have any tips about this, too, I wouldn't mind some help, but I understand it's out of topic. I already have an optical DAC so that's not a problem.
Talking about the speakers, I was thinking about using one Dayton PS95 per channel in 3.5 liter enclosures. And by doing sims for both sealed and vented boxes, I've found that they more or less work well with the same dimensions.
1. Do you think that building them vented for when they're alone and then plugging the port when used with a sub would be a smart solution? Because it sure does seem like it on paper
About the boxes, I would like them to be very shallow in order to be wall mounted, for both aesthetic purposes and to maybe tame a bit the baffle step effect, since I will have no way to eq the drivers (neither do I want to complicate such a low expectations project by building a crossover). This would make it impossible to use a horizontal port as usual:
2. Would it be the same if I used a vertical reflex port firing downwards?
3. Also, do you see any problems with a very shallow box, if stuffed properly?
About the sub. I really want to spend the least amount of money possible, so I immediately found the Dayton DC160-8 appealing. Yeah, sure, low xmax, but the SPL will never go high enough to worry about it, methinks. I've tried simulating it in a 17 liter vented box tuned to 40hz, and it seems to work quite well, going down to 35 hz without any problems at my requested SPL.
4. Is there something I haven't found that betrays this driver's very low price point?
5. What do you think in general about a system like this? Are there any other drivers I should be considering in this price range?
I hope I was clear enough and I thank anybody that would take the time to help me. Also, I'm sorry if the numbered questions come through as rude, but I was told in a previous thread to organise them like that to make it easier for them to be answered.
Thanks again and I wish evverybody a good day.
Your basic idea is fine.
Don't worry about baffle-step loss, there will be little to none-just keep your boxes bigger and flatter(thinner).
Put the 95s' magnets through the rear panel- just be sure to help the little guys by chamfering the backside of the baffle holes.
DC160s are fine till you use them for midrange frequencies and then too loud.
8 ohms is good for little amps.
2.1 amps usually make level matching easy.
You might want to try foamcore test boxes till you finalise placements, shapes, etc.
Looks like a fun build.
Don't worry about baffle-step loss, there will be little to none-just keep your boxes bigger and flatter(thinner).
Put the 95s' magnets through the rear panel- just be sure to help the little guys by chamfering the backside of the baffle holes.
DC160s are fine till you use them for midrange frequencies and then too loud.
8 ohms is good for little amps.
2.1 amps usually make level matching easy.
You might want to try foamcore test boxes till you finalise placements, shapes, etc.
Looks like a fun build.
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Have you looked at Dayton DC165? Might offer better performance as subwoofer, unsure about the cost difference. If you want a cheap sub, this would be nice as well:
OmnesAudio SW 6.01 | DIY
Essentially a TB W6-1139 clone.
I've personally used Reckhorn D165 subwoofers on my home theather setup as multiple distributed subwoofers, 2 per enclosure on opposing sides. They have almost unbeatable bang for buck.
OmnesAudio SW 6.01 | DIY
Essentially a TB W6-1139 clone.
I've personally used Reckhorn D165 subwoofers on my home theather setup as multiple distributed subwoofers, 2 per enclosure on opposing sides. They have almost unbeatable bang for buck.
First of all thanks to both of you for answering my questions.
@boswald Your comment has been very helpful, thank you, just one thing is not clear to me: what do you mean by "Put the 95s' magnets through the rear panel"? Do I have to put them from the rear of the front panel, thus screwing them in from the inside out and not the opposite?
@Mayuri yes, thank you, I had seen the DC165, but it costs double the DC160 and it would probably be overkill for my purposes. I'm sure it would make a great little sub though.
@boswald Your comment has been very helpful, thank you, just one thing is not clear to me: what do you mean by "Put the 95s' magnets through the rear panel"? Do I have to put them from the rear of the front panel, thus screwing them in from the inside out and not the opposite?
@Mayuri yes, thank you, I had seen the DC165, but it costs double the DC160 and it would probably be overkill for my purposes. I'm sure it would make a great little sub though.
If you mean the headphone out, I've written in the first post that, since I can't control the volume without going through multiple submenus, I can't use it as a source.
If you mean tearing apart the speakers to get to the internal amp of the TV, I will never do that as long as I have warranty.
Thanks for the help though
If you mean tearing apart the speakers to get to the internal amp of the TV, I will never do that as long as I have warranty.
Thanks for the help though
I pulled this information from Paul Carmody's site. He designs great speakers and really likes the DC-160. His recommendation for it is "...15 Liters. It is tuned to 40 Hz, which means you'll need a 1.5" dia vent, approximately 4" long. It reaches an F3 in the mid 30 Hz range with a great sense of ease." You could even use the low pass section of the crossover.
Classix II - undefinition
For the PS-95, if you don't mind tall enclosures, which could be mounted to the wall, you could build the TABAQs. Mount the speaker on the wide side and your enclosure would be around 4 inches in depth. There is also a folded TABAQ that might be an option.
http://coolcat.dk/bjoern/TABAQ_TL_for_TB.pdf
Mike
Classix II - undefinition
For the PS-95, if you don't mind tall enclosures, which could be mounted to the wall, you could build the TABAQs. Mount the speaker on the wide side and your enclosure would be around 4 inches in depth. There is also a folded TABAQ that might be an option.
http://coolcat.dk/bjoern/TABAQ_TL_for_TB.pdf
Mike
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One other wall mount speaker idea...
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/ful...board-speaker-enclosures-147.html#post3400954
Mike
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/ful...board-speaker-enclosures-147.html#post3400954
Mike
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