Well that sucks! I followed the parts express recommendations... i am surprised that they are so far off. I could extend the back (currently flush with sides) and make it stand out which would give me another 1.3 liters, or go back to the drawing board and remake the whole thing. How did you calculate optimal volume for this driver... I am having trouble finding a concise but informative answer. I am using vituix cad for much of my modeling, i dont see a place in the enclosure tool that helps find the optimum. it will give me a curve for any size enclosure but how do I tell what will likely be best...what am I looking for out of the enclosure curve for optimal results. Again thank you lojzek you are so helpful not with just advice but helping me understand the principle behind the advice which ultimately i find even more valuable! I will hopefully be able to measure the enclosure this weekend.
You may not think it is ideal - but there are a lot of designers that use a USB mic and they can certainly use software to "make" a timing reference.
I have used Omnimic for 5 years and my final FRs match my sims very closely. I have been happy with the purchase and especially its ease of use.
Always multiple ways to do something
I would not rebuild - those boxes are nice. How did you come up with the ports, size and length? That may be the issue, as 2 ports of 1-1/2" is a lot of port for a 13 liter box. I would generally think one of those is barely enough (i.e. might need to be a little longer)
You can certainly use the manufacturers T/S parameters, but most designers will use a jig/DATS to measure their actual speakers, because they can differ - some brands more than others. Thats the only way to verify for sure the optimal size and allow you to customize to fit your needs - there is always a compromise in speaker building.
Can you share you current XO design/SIM? That would help
I simulate different enclosure volumes/loadings after I measure the TSP myself. This is standard procedure that gives me a little edge over the manufacturer data and I have absolutely nothing to lose by doing so. The decision what kind of an Fb will be preferable, is yet to be decided after some listening experiments. I prefer the bass shelf response (deeper Fb) which does not sum as flat as a higher Fb would, because I will use boundaries as final sound reinforcement and it helps not to end up with a boomy sounding loudspeaker.
I used winisd port velocity simulator to get the port diameter. As for the crossover I think it has to be rebuilt from the ground up. But currently is just a 1st order 5.6uf cap on inverted tweeter with a parallel resistor 10ohm and a 2mH coil on woofer.
I think I can extend the enclosure just by playing with the back panel and get a few more liters out of it. Also I want to flush mount the tweeter so I'll have to take it apart anyway. Then I can do proper measurements with microphone and remake the XO properly.
I think I can extend the enclosure just by playing with the back panel and get a few more liters out of it. Also I want to flush mount the tweeter so I'll have to take it apart anyway. Then I can do proper measurements with microphone and remake the XO properly.
I don't see that anyone answered this...but it depends, some manufacturers are quite accurate and others have a reputation for being quite inaccurate. I have some Tang Band woofers that are notoriously far from manufacturers spec and make a big difference in the modeling.
+1 on what bullittstang says on the mic - there are some advantages of non-USB mics but the USB mics (and OmniMic in particular) are used by a LOT of people just fine.
If you get Jeff Bagby's Passive Crossover Designer that DickHertz linked in post #17 there are some useful YouTube videos on how to use it.
Also, I just have to comment ...you went from $60 being too high above your $40 target to buying OmniMic and DATS and commenting on the Epique deal of the day - which WAS a great deal but still some very expensive drivers - welcome to the addiction!
Lol...the plan was always to start with a modest speaker to make sure I have the interest and aptitude for it and then build a reference level set, so the original price restriction was consciously on the low side. Since I got the woofers on a daily deal for $20 I had a little more room in the budget to get the tweeter and then I realized all of this was useless without proper measuring equipment...so then came the mic ( I was just gonna go for the umik plus dats but that was already nearly 200 so I figured might as well spend a little more to get something I won’t have to upgrade. I hate getting half measures so just splurged.
As for the epiques, I am on the lookout for some nice reference level drivers like seas or morel on a great sale and in no hurry to buy. That looked like a promising deal and I almost pulled the trigger, but I could not find a lot of people using the epiques so I stayed away- btw I am still interested in people’s thoughts on their strengths and weaknesses. I’m also sad I did not pick up the seas w15 when Madisound had them for half off last week even if you could only get one at that price.
As for the epiques, I am on the lookout for some nice reference level drivers like seas or morel on a great sale and in no hurry to buy. That looked like a promising deal and I almost pulled the trigger, but I could not find a lot of people using the epiques so I stayed away- btw I am still interested in people’s thoughts on their strengths and weaknesses. I’m also sad I did not pick up the seas w15 when Madisound had them for half off last week even if you could only get one at that price.
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