Eagerly awaiting my VC's, but in the meantime imagining a rig to align these, one that will accept a slow curing epoxy in the middle.
I have come up with a steel channel about 1/2" wider than the widest point of the magnet - that's 6" - channel could be even wider, 7" or 8" even with a bolt hole and a nut welded on the inside where if you install a bolt, you would push the plate that's attached to the basket only. So the process would be, put the 90 minute or whatever time epoxy, put the basket over the cone, lining up the VC as well as you can, and pinch or not, put them together. Then use the bolt to push it to where it wont rub and grind the VC.
I'm replacing the VC after doing this but I need to get it to not rub in the first place, I can take up a bit of lopsided fit up when I glue the VC I guess, but I'd rather make a rig to get it spot on. Then let it cure, then replace the VC.
Thanks.
Srinath.
I have come up with a steel channel about 1/2" wider than the widest point of the magnet - that's 6" - channel could be even wider, 7" or 8" even with a bolt hole and a nut welded on the inside where if you install a bolt, you would push the plate that's attached to the basket only. So the process would be, put the 90 minute or whatever time epoxy, put the basket over the cone, lining up the VC as well as you can, and pinch or not, put them together. Then use the bolt to push it to where it wont rub and grind the VC.
I'm replacing the VC after doing this but I need to get it to not rub in the first place, I can take up a bit of lopsided fit up when I glue the VC I guess, but I'd rather make a rig to get it spot on. Then let it cure, then replace the VC.
Thanks.
Srinath.
The Scanspeak 30W/4558T00 12 " Woofer is a good replacement.
Its a sub driver, but not with your usual domed sub response, it extends well up the range and many stockists list it as a woofer. Very articulate, I think it sounds better than the original driver.
I have mine in a 55L sealed box, F3 in room around 30Hz. Near field measurement, no smoothing.
With a little DSP EQ, flat to about 22Hz, f3 measured 19Hz.
Its a 4ohm driver so needs separate/different x-over arrangement. I Bi amp my set up, a 12w Valve amp for Mid/Twt and 700w class D for bass.
I stripped the paint off the rims and gave a brushed alloy finish to match Mid/Twt. You have to click on the image to see a non squashed up version.
Its a sub driver, but not with your usual domed sub response, it extends well up the range and many stockists list it as a woofer. Very articulate, I think it sounds better than the original driver.
I have mine in a 55L sealed box, F3 in room around 30Hz. Near field measurement, no smoothing.
With a little DSP EQ, flat to about 22Hz, f3 measured 19Hz.
Its a 4ohm driver so needs separate/different x-over arrangement. I Bi amp my set up, a 12w Valve amp for Mid/Twt and 700w class D for bass.
I stripped the paint off the rims and gave a brushed alloy finish to match Mid/Twt. You have to click on the image to see a non squashed up version.
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This is me clicking the imaginary "like" button ..... a very serious setup. Hope the xover does justice to these fine drivers.
Just to round this off, should someone search the subject of replacement drivers for the NS1000m...........
Scanspeak 30W/4558T00 12" woofer/sub driver:
I use a Marchand XM44EMB for LP duties to the Bass driver. This is a small Op Amp based analogue active x-over. It's meant for installing into amplifiers etc, has two channels and two sockets per channel to receive plug in frequency modules. The x-over modules used in the plots below are LR4 at 500Hz.
When I started the project, I ran some numbers for the Scanspeak driver in an on-line calculator. With an ideal 55L sealed cabinet, it predicted f3 of 34Hz, this first plot shows it was spot on. They are Nearfield measurements I took today.
I also purchased a pair of plug-in bass boost modules from Marchand (Linkwitz Transform), +10dB @ 20Hz, this takes my f3 down to 19Hz. The smooth natural roll off of the driver gives a smooth boost as well.
My speakers no longer focus on the upper bass, stock Yammies have an f3 around 50Hz with a hump around 110Hz, they have upper bass qty but no real depth. This characteristic was measured by me and countless others and confirmed in Yamaha's plot in the owners manual. These Scanspeak drivers can go deep when the need arises, especially when a Linkwitz Transform Boost is applied. The ideal 55L sealed cabinet is only 5L larger then the original. This driver would probably work well in the NS1000m cabinet volume, but the different driver frame shapes, does not make it an easy fit. I found it simpler to build new cabinets and with my originals being a bit rough round the edges it made sense both ways.
I've added the bass boost since you heard them at Sheffield Simon.
Scanspeak 30W/4558T00 12" woofer/sub driver:
I use a Marchand XM44EMB for LP duties to the Bass driver. This is a small Op Amp based analogue active x-over. It's meant for installing into amplifiers etc, has two channels and two sockets per channel to receive plug in frequency modules. The x-over modules used in the plots below are LR4 at 500Hz.
When I started the project, I ran some numbers for the Scanspeak driver in an on-line calculator. With an ideal 55L sealed cabinet, it predicted f3 of 34Hz, this first plot shows it was spot on. They are Nearfield measurements I took today.
I also purchased a pair of plug-in bass boost modules from Marchand (Linkwitz Transform), +10dB @ 20Hz, this takes my f3 down to 19Hz. The smooth natural roll off of the driver gives a smooth boost as well.
My speakers no longer focus on the upper bass, stock Yammies have an f3 around 50Hz with a hump around 110Hz, they have upper bass qty but no real depth. This characteristic was measured by me and countless others and confirmed in Yamaha's plot in the owners manual. These Scanspeak drivers can go deep when the need arises, especially when a Linkwitz Transform Boost is applied. The ideal 55L sealed cabinet is only 5L larger then the original. This driver would probably work well in the NS1000m cabinet volume, but the different driver frame shapes, does not make it an easy fit. I found it simpler to build new cabinets and with my originals being a bit rough round the edges it made sense both ways.
I've added the bass boost since you heard them at Sheffield Simon.
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Very impressive measurements. That woofer/box system responds as per book!
Since you mentioned the XM44EMB: I also happen to have one, with several extra frequency modules (XM44FMA). Can you please tell me if the LT module board is the same as the FMA or is it a different one?
The Calculator indicates that it is XM44LX, but then there is no such board on Marchand's list.
Thanks in advance.
Since you mentioned the XM44EMB: I also happen to have one, with several extra frequency modules (XM44FMA). Can you please tell me if the LT module board is the same as the FMA or is it a different one?
The Calculator indicates that it is XM44LX, but then there is no such board on Marchand's list.
Thanks in advance.
Draki - I'm not sure about the designated numbers for the boards, I just ordered the modules ready made from Marchand. I told Phil what I wanted by email and he sent me a Paypal invoice just describing what they were, without part numbers. The Boost module boards are different to the filter frequency boards. They are twice as tall sitting in their sockets.
I got a couple of spare filter boards when I made the purchase.
I'll probably get some more and some spare boost boards in Spring.
I got a couple of spare filter boards when I made the purchase.
I'll probably get some more and some spare boost boards in Spring.
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