Here's another picture. Looks like whoever was in here before bypassed the mid pot in this speaker already. The jumper wire is placed across the breaker as it was when I tested with the ohm meter.Well, you took the photo from the wrong side (photo 4), it would really help to see the connection side of the pads and the capacitor(s) and the soldering points of them and the wires. The woofers are definitely not the original ones btw.
The Harman Kardon receiver is very nice!
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I would be inclined to disconnect the level controls and reset device completely and start afresh with a rewire of the system, including new midrange and tweeter capacitors.
If found necessary after listening to the result of the rewire, suitable wirewound resistors may be inserted in series with the midrange and tweeters to reduce their level by the required amount.
If found necessary after listening to the result of the rewire, suitable wirewound resistors may be inserted in series with the midrange and tweeters to reduce their level by the required amount.
I would be inclined to disconnect the level controls and reset device completely and start afresh with a rewire of the system, including new midrange and tweeter capacitors.
If found necessary after listening to the result of the rewire, suitable wirewound resistors may be inserted in series with the midrange and tweeters to reduce their level by the required amount.
I wholehartedly support that statement. A completely new designed crossover can (probably actually would) result in a much improved sound. However, the speakers aren't original anymore and there seems to be no desire to achieve the best possible sound, a 'bang for the buck' solution would be appropriate. To disable the l-pad and try the best of some resistor combinations seems to be the most promising path to go. I don't really like it but it has to be accepted the customers expectations have to be met.
I wholehartedly support that statement. A completely new designed crossover can (probably actually would) result in a much improved sound. However, the speakers aren't original anymore and there seems to be no desire to achieve the best possible sound, a 'bang for the buck' solution would be appropriate. To disable the l-pad and try the best of some resistor combinations seems to be the most promising path to go. I don't really like it but it has to be accepted the customers expectations have to be met.
Maybe build some new cabinets and throw in some new drivers after rebuilding the crossover too
Anyway, here's a drawing of the wiring.
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Nice simple circuit! Just go for new caps, a full rewire and add level resistors later if necessary.
There will be lots of overlap between the drivers which will result in a lively sound which may actually be fun to listen to!
No speaker system is perfect and this is a prime example!
There will be lots of overlap between the drivers which will result in a lively sound which may actually be fun to listen to!
No speaker system is perfect and this is a prime example!
Nice simple circuit! Just go for new caps, a full rewire and add level resistors later if necessary.
There will be lots of overlap between the drivers which will result in a lively sound which may actually be fun to listen to!
No speaker system is perfect and this is a prime example!
I think I figured out the DCR issue. Had some + and - reversed. The - wire that connects all the drivers is red! Drawing it out helped me figure that out.
Nothing should surprise us regarding these speakers it would appear!The - wire that connects all the drivers is red!
Thanks for the update. I notice you didn't comment on the sound quality - maybe that says a lot!I got these working and sent them home.
Thanks for the update. I notice you didn't comment on the sound quality - maybe that says a lot!
I hooked them up to a basic amp to test and they sounded brash. Hooked them to a better amp when my customer came but he knocked on the door just as I got it set up. I think they sounded at least somewhat better but I didn't have a chance to say for sure.
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