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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Switches: What amperage? Wire: What gauge?
Switches: What amperage? Wire: What gauge?
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Old Today, 03:05 AM   #1
Cableaddict is offline Cableaddict
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Default Switches: What amperage? Wire: What gauge?

I'm about to replace some barrier strips on my live Mid-high speakers with Neutricks and a 4-pole switch. (The switch bypasses one internal crossover)

I'm wondering how high I need to go in the switches amperage rating, to not worry about any losses. I assume I don't need much, but wanted to check and be sure.

The speakers take a max of 1100w @ 8 ohms.

-----------------------

And also, what gauge wire is enough, for internal runs less than one foot?

- Thanks.
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Old Today, 03:38 AM   #2
rayma is offline rayma  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cableaddict View Post
I'm about to replace some barrier strips on my live Mid-high speakers
with Neutricks and a 4-pole switch. what gauge wire is enough
SpeakONs are rated for 50A, so there's your maximum needed switch rating.
They take up to #10 wire, so there's your maximum needed wire size.

Last edited by rayma; Today at 03:43 AM.
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Old Today, 05:32 AM   #3
Cableaddict is offline Cableaddict
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Thanks. - but those aren't MY numbers!

I'm looking for the minimum values I can safely use, for low cost, low weight, and low footprint. I doubt a 50a 4-pole switch even exists.

Neutricks have to handle the most powerful transfers possible, for any speaker made.

Again, my speakers, pertinent to this query, handle a maximum of 1,000w.
-----------

And I've never seen internal wiring anywhere near 10 gauge. That would not be fun to solder.
I'll probably use 16 gauge, but thought I'd check here first.

Last edited by Cableaddict; Today at 05:35 AM.
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Old Today, 08:21 AM   #4
avtech23 is offline avtech23  Australia
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Switches: What amperage? Wire: What gauge?
Neutrik is the brand (they make SpeakOn, powerCon etc).

Which neutrik connector are you planning to use in particular?

Google tells me: The theoretical maximum current given by P = I^2 / R is sqrt(1000W / 8 ohm) = 11.2A
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Last edited by avtech23; Today at 08:29 AM. Reason: Damn autocorrect.
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Old Today, 11:06 AM   #5
Lojzek is offline Lojzek  Croatia
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There is a typo in the first part of the equation, although result still correct.
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Old Today, 11:11 AM   #6
avtech23 is offline avtech23  Australia
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Switches: What amperage? Wire: What gauge?
Spot on, I copied it on my phone and didn't even notice!

P=I^2 R
I=SQRT(P/R)
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Old Today, 12:16 PM   #7
MAAC0 is offline MAAC0  Portugal
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On the innards of my PA speakers I use 2.5mm2 Wire. For Subs 4mm2.
For 1000W You are looking for 15 Amps wire / Switches.
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Old Today, 12:55 PM   #8
bentoronto is offline bentoronto  Canada
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Switches: What amperage? Wire: What gauge?
Do you plan on doing the switch during loud or soft passages?

B.
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Old Today, 02:47 PM   #9
mark100 is offline mark100  United States
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I use this one for switching passives in and out because it has 4 poles.
I also use it to handle 4000w to subs (I put a small DC voltage on subs when not in use)
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Old Today, 03:03 PM   #10
GoatGuy is offline GoatGuy  United States
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You easily can get away with using Carling 254–73 4 pole screw-terminal switches. 15 amp capacity, not overly expensive. Less than twenty bucks at Mouser. The wire is equally flexible: 16 gauge tinned stranded copper is best, tho' "naked stranded copper" (i.e. without tinning) is fine too. Personally, I'd also use crimp-on lugs on the wire, available at any hardware store.

To give some idea how much power is lost not going to 10 gauge, not getting a huge 50 amp million dollar switch… its all about Ω.
P = I² R
R ≈ 4 Ω
P ≈ 1200 watts … therefore
I = √( 1200 ÷ 4 )
I = 17 amps
Note that those would be peak amps, not average ones. For sound material being blasted at the full capacity of the speakers and amplifier.

however, if again you look at the formula, and express it slightly differently:
P = I²( R1 + R2 ) where
R1 ≈ 4 Ω (speakers)
R2 ≈ 0.05 Ω (switch + imperfect added wiring)
You notice that the power "lost" is only related to the ratio of the speakers' impedance to the added switch-and-wire resistance of making your change. And that … in this example … is 0.05 ÷ 4 → 0.0125 or basically 1% of the power.

Acoustically 1% is 20 log10( 1 - 0.0125 ) → –0.1 dB.

Turns out that we cannot hear –0.1 dB power drop. At all. 1 dB, yes. 0.1 dB, no.

Just saying,
GoatGuy
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