Here is a good place to simulate driver
Speakerbuilder Pro 2.0
the 26w is listed
chose custom brand
chose custum series
chose custom unit
Speakerbuilder Pro 2.0
the 26w is listed
chose custom brand
chose custum series
chose custom unit
I think that if the OP is asking for punch, for that it should shrink the box, not enlarge the virtual volume with more filling material.
The same says, "there are less low".
I agree with the one who thought that in order to achieve that he has chosen the inadequate controller / litigation, I think that the baffle works well, but he looks for the PA cabinet coup and built an HI FI cabinet.
I would lower the actual volume of the bass cabinet, something difficult but not impossible, shrinking the compartment and recalculating the tuning.
The same says, "there are less low".
I agree with the one who thought that in order to achieve that he has chosen the inadequate controller / litigation, I think that the baffle works well, but he looks for the PA cabinet coup and built an HI FI cabinet.
I would lower the actual volume of the bass cabinet, something difficult but not impossible, shrinking the compartment and recalculating the tuning.
Yes i ve done this.
Results is that level of bass is more or less adequate till 30hz in room, but the punch (i refer to punch as the kick of the drum) is dynamically flat ie you can hear it but cant "feel" it as air movement.
Also quality (i refer to quality as the definition) is not top, bass is not too definited and a little mudded. But whole woofer emission is not boomy.
I hope have explained my listening sensations
Well this is how a lot of modern woofers sound.Building drivers to go that low seems to bring a corresponding loss of punch,texture and timing.They are trying to be both a subwoofer and a woofer and it does not work.The SB Acoustics 10 inch sounds the same.As do the Eton hexacones.Soggy is how I describe it.
You have not published photographs so I can not know if it is already finished cosmetically, which would be a pity.
But you must remove the deflector necessarily, maybe this will help,look at the pictures
JBL GTO 627 Compliance ?
Instead of screws you can use wooden blocks ( dowels) , or you can re-coat, etc, etc. It all depends on your carpentry skills...
I share 100%, neither it would not help to go to sealing, it should reduce the volume and tune higher, which brings a new complication. How much will this affect acoustic impedance?
Must modify perhaps a little the xover.
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I think that if the cabinet is already completely finished, modify it will be a problem if you are not an expert in working with wood and manipulating tools. I always think about how dangerous it is for inexperienced people ....
A simple router with a loose jaw can cause significant physical damage.
Personally I think I would sell it to some HI FI enthusiast and I would go for something oriented to more punch.
A simple router with a loose jaw can cause significant physical damage.
Personally I think I would sell it to some HI FI enthusiast and I would go for something oriented to more punch.
I used the more expensive Discovery 26W/4558T00 in a 3 way.
Yes it goes deep but you don't "feel" their sound. I really wanted this driver to sound good, so I tried a lot of things but without success.
Then I decided to try a pro woofer and the loudspeaker suddenly came to life.
Ok, below 30-35Hz (in-room) the pro woofer is weaker but I would trade the deep bass for the liveliness at any time.
Yes it goes deep but you don't "feel" their sound. I really wanted this driver to sound good, so I tried a lot of things but without success.
Then I decided to try a pro woofer and the loudspeaker suddenly came to life.
Ok, below 30-35Hz (in-room) the pro woofer is weaker but I would trade the deep bass for the liveliness at any time.
I played with this woofer also in a 70lt closed cabinet. The bass was absolutely weak. Qtc was around 0.8.
So, i turned that box into ported and bass was pumped cause reducing volume causes a 3-5db peak in the 40-80hz range. So a little more punch but too mud at the same time. So i thought that volume was inadequate and proceed with larger box according to simulations qb3.
What I have with 110Lt big enclosure is the flat curve you saw before and port contribution at 26hz is very wide with no peak. So very good alignment as on paper.
But, reading your thinking about the 26W just confirm that this driver sounds that way.
I also conisidered in sim an added Resistance for series inductor and other losses wich was about 0.4ohm.
My inductor has 0.29ohm.
Do you think that lowering this Ra could solve the problem? Ie using a c coil inductor
So, i turned that box into ported and bass was pumped cause reducing volume causes a 3-5db peak in the 40-80hz range. So a little more punch but too mud at the same time. So i thought that volume was inadequate and proceed with larger box according to simulations qb3.
What I have with 110Lt big enclosure is the flat curve you saw before and port contribution at 26hz is very wide with no peak. So very good alignment as on paper.
But, reading your thinking about the 26W just confirm that this driver sounds that way.
I also conisidered in sim an added Resistance for series inductor and other losses wich was about 0.4ohm.
My inductor has 0.29ohm.
Do you think that lowering this Ra could solve the problem? Ie using a c coil inductor
Yes i ll make it in the morning.
what do you mean higher mid bass freq?
Maybe turning midrange enclosure to ported could help a bit? Midwoofer is 6"seas er18 in 25lts sealed, now the fc is at 50hz but can be tuned at 40hz or so in BR. May it help the punch? Despite i always thought the punch comes from 50-100hz range
^ I was referring to the 50-250Hz band and that overlaps your midrange and was wondering about its phase relationship to the woofer.
The impulse response of a sealed woofer is better than a ported woofer. You said the sealed woofer was worse so that implies the problem may be somewhere else.
I would keep the midrange sealed.
The impulse response of a sealed woofer is better than a ported woofer. You said the sealed woofer was worse so that implies the problem may be somewhere else.
I would keep the midrange sealed.
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In my prototype crossover with the 26W the test inductor was 0.45 Ohm and the final inductor was a C-Coil with 0.07 Ohm which was slightly better overall but not too much difference in the end.
Your woofer is an 8 Ohm version so reducing the series resistance from 0.4 Ohm has even less effect on the response (and sound) i think.
The pro woofer sounded even with 1 Ohm series coil much better.
Put in Google "frequency of the punch" and you will find that there is a lot of controversy, I think that as DonVK says he reaches the low end of the middle range. It is difficult to say a certain frequency, there are harmonics in the blow that go up a lot and could perfectly reach the middle range.
You can not see which speaker is used, but anyway, and as you say it is in a sealed compartment and very muffled, maybe you are killing those notes of "attack", fast and dry .....
And if you turn the middle range into BR?
It does not always apply that the middle range "must be completely closed and isolated from the two-conductor, if the overlap is well done, there can be interaction between them." My DTQWTII shares the same air chamber the twofer (2) and the midrange , so does a RE with horn, even Troels has designs with the speaker medium / low range tuned.
It would be nice to know the cutting frequencies and see some graph of the overlap between the twofer and the midrange.
These are my 2 cents, I hope you solve the lack of punch you are looking for, good luck friend.
You can not see which speaker is used, but anyway, and as you say it is in a sealed compartment and very muffled, maybe you are killing those notes of "attack", fast and dry .....
And if you turn the middle range into BR?
It does not always apply that the middle range "must be completely closed and isolated from the two-conductor, if the overlap is well done, there can be interaction between them." My DTQWTII shares the same air chamber the twofer (2) and the midrange , so does a RE with horn, even Troels has designs with the speaker medium / low range tuned.
It would be nice to know the cutting frequencies and see some graph of the overlap between the twofer and the midrange.
These are my 2 cents, I hope you solve the lack of punch you are looking for, good luck friend.
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