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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

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Old 8th December 2018, 03:29 AM   #1
Coasttocoast is offline Coasttocoast  United States
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Default Big Speaker Project, 18 + 10 + CD/horn, super tweeter

Rebuilding my Ekta Grandes and ScanSpeak subwoofers didnt satisfy my need to build something.

Im really excited about the overall improvements in sound from the changes, and this build does not indicate unhappiness, but I really want to build a BIG speaker, just to say I did, if for no other reason.

Within reason, Im not planning on cutting any expenses or time. I have ordered most of the crossover parts from Jantzen and the drivers (except for the super tweeters) from Lean in the UK. Drivers track delivery next Wednesday, no tracking yet from Jantzen.

B2C8093B-F56B-4923-8868-6B8FEC1C6228.jpeg

Big drivers take a big cabinet. 42 x 26 x 18 (H x W x D), all 1 material, double milled Medex for the painted parts, Maple veneer/Baltic Birch for the others. Maple hardwood frame, plenty of bracing.

After the fun and success of the new Hypex Fusion FA501 plate amp for my subs Ill be using the FA502s here. One channel for the MTT and the other for the 18. There will be 4 sets of binding posts so I can use jumpers to choose full Active, partial Active, bi-amp from outside source, single outside amp. Versatile.

Been scribbling notes all day to give to my CNC friend to input and cut stuff up. All good fun.

Cabinet design will be somewhat simple, going for elegant, understated, and not a copy of anything Ive seen before. For sure nothing that looks like a transformer that may come alive and come get me in the night!

I made an outline/template and have had laying on the floor for a couple days to get a feel for the size. My wife told me to go for it, so one hurdle out of the way!
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Babelfish J as Aleph 2, McIntosh C2300, RAKK DAC Mark IV Extreme, Oppo UDP-203 DVD/CD, Custom SP10 MKII/SME 312s/Koetsu Urushi Black, Magna Mano streamer, Ekta Grande speakers, DIY 13" ScanSpeak sub's w/Hypex Fusion 501s, Transparent Ultra cables.
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Old 8th December 2018, 03:45 AM   #2
The Space Egg Corp is offline The Space Egg Corp  England
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Hi Coast to coast.


What crossover frequencies are you thinking of using ?


What is the upper usable limit of the 10" ...

... & the lower usable limit of the compression driver in particular.


Are the drivers a close dB/Watt match for each other ?

Have you got the dB/Watt @ 1 Meter specs. for the 4 drivers ?


Integrating the power levels of the 4 different drivers ...

... & finding the best X-over point between the 10" & C.D. is a brain teaser.


Si.

t.S.E.c

.

Last edited by The Space Egg Corp; 8th December 2018 at 03:47 AM. Reason: Watt ?
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Old 8th December 2018, 04:46 AM   #3
LineSource is offline LineSource  United States
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TOPIC: Edge diffraction effects on large front baffles:
=======
Earl Geddes measurements show value to cutting large radius quarter rounds on all baffle edges. Review his SUMMA speaker literature.
========
" Originally Posted by Patrick Bateman ---
A couple of things have been vexxing me lately:
1) If you put a *significant* roundover on a cabinet, the polars get measurably better. Here's an 18Sound XT1086 with and without a roundover. In particular, notice the improvement in the midrange. "

The Preference for Direct Radiators

Watch this thread for additional measurements and discussion.
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Old 8th December 2018, 05:33 AM   #4
Coasttocoast is offline Coasttocoast  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Space Egg Corp View Post
What crossover frequencies are you thinking of using ? <snip>
Thanks for posting!

Just getting started, but I have a plan.

One question I can answer is that the points of crossover are 200, 1300 and 9000 Hz.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LineSource View Post
TOPIC: Edge diffraction effects on large front baffles:
Thanks, and yes, my cabinet design has some allowance for edge diffraction. May or may not be the ultimate but the vertical face of both sides of the baffle will have a 2 1/2 diameter roundover. At least at this stage of the design.
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Old 8th December 2018, 07:31 AM   #5
The Space Egg Corp is offline The Space Egg Corp  England
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" One question I can answer is that the points of crossover are 200, 1300 and 9000 Hz "


Hi Coast To Coast.


I haven't studied the driver specs. or anything ...

... but can you say why ? you chose those frequencies ?


My intuitive feeling would be to try and get ...

the 200 lower

the 1300 higher

& the 9000 higher


Mmm ...


I'm an amateur, who doesn't like scarring bats ...

... hates subwoofers ...

... & loves 3 KHz crossover points though !


Si.

t.S.E.c

.
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Old 8th December 2018, 09:08 AM   #6
beardman is offline beardman  Denmark
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Hi Coast to coast.
This system you is going to build looks like a copy of this speaker from Troels.G

The-Loudspeaker

why not buy the original crossover ..it is not cheap but make the speaker play like a whole ...and it sound very well

Best Bjarne
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Old 8th December 2018, 12:26 PM   #7
The Space Egg Corp is offline The Space Egg Corp  England
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Interesting ...

... He states the low X-over point as 200 Hz

... Then a low pass at 1300 Hz & high pass at 5000 Hz

( I guess you could say the X-over point is average 3150 Hz ? )


SCARRY speakers ! ... Candidate for 'The Maxell Man' award for sure !!!


Si.

t.S.E.c

.
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Old 8th December 2018, 01:12 PM   #8
chris661 is offline chris661  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beardman View Post
Hi Coast to coast.
This system you is going to build looks like a copy of this speaker from Troels.G

The-Loudspeaker

why not buy the original crossover ..it is not cheap but make the speaker play like a whole ...and it sound very well

Best Bjarne
+1. I was gonna post that same link.

The speaker you're looking at making is very similar to what's already been done. Take hints from someone that's done a lot of hard work for you!

Chris
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Old 8th December 2018, 01:32 PM   #9
beardman is offline beardman  Denmark
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If you do not know...i have build The Loudspeaker

and very happy with them
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Old 8th December 2018, 02:07 PM   #10
mortron is offline mortron  Canada
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I wanted to build JBL 43xx clones for a long time. When the realization that original drivers were getting scarce and expensive, alternatives became realistic choices.

Two things occurred to me. One was that the designer of those big speakers had moved on, and his personal stereo used totally different arrangements. The second was that an individual who had some big 43xx had opined that now a similar performing speaker could be pulled off in a 3 way using the SEOS waveguide. Surely a few things have changed over time that allow us to do things a little differently than the old way.

When I found Troels The Loudspeaker, I got excited. Here was a speaker using modern drivers and designed using modern tools and parts, surely it has to be an improvement on the old design, no? I was a bit shocked to see he went 4 way, but Troels' forte is crossover design, so of course he won't make any compromises.

Since you've essentially ordered the drivers he used, I would take it in that direction. I feel like crossover design is the sword I will fall on when it comes time for me to build my speaker. Having that figured out would allow you to focus on the finish work, and there is no shame in not designing your crossover if your speaker sounds great in the end and looks the part. If those drivers were in my budget, I'd be all over The Loudspeaker.

Not only that, but there are already members who have built them here. Having them and possibly Troels able to advise would be nothing short of awesome, and something some of us wish we had when taking on our own projects.

Regardless of how you take this, I think it's awesome you're doing it, and look forward to your progress.
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