Hi to all, since some time now I have built a 3 way 60L enclosure with bass driver monacor SPH-255 , mid driver Monacor MS130 and an unbranded tweeter probably an Audax , but despite several tweaks effected, damping material and port length adjusted, I am still not satisfied with the bass despite the woofer specs seem ok.
I shall be posting all possible info soon.
ALDO
I shall be posting all possible info soon.
ALDO
Tks for reply. Although I have experience in using various enclosure software, I have never measured any frequency response. Have read a lot of course on the subject but I do not own a calibrated microphone. In the meantime, until I solve this issue, what can be done?
Can I have a bit more information about the process "gated with gate" ?
Can I have a bit more information about the process "gated with gate" ?
Lacking measurement gear, if where me, will redo the sims, targeting a gently decrease of the FR towards the highs, until say, 10khz. Then Let it climb again. You Will end with a moderate "loudness" response. Play with the port lenght (shortening) it, until bass suits Your taste.
I had done this homework over weeks and weeks of intense listening and have been reducing progressively the mid which has as SPL 94db, as compared to the SPH255 with SPL 91db, while the tweeter I presume shoud be around 9- to 92 db, and I have tried to reduce its level also, but the whole thing would lack musicality.
Here is a photo of the enclosure. H 100 cm xW30 cm x D35cm.
Here is a photo of the enclosure. H 100 cm xW30 cm x D35cm.
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A couple of comments:
1. Try putting your speakers flush against a wall as a test. If they sound better, your crossover needs "baffle step" correction to sit further out in the room.
2. I would re-do your front baffle. The closer you can get the tweeter and midrange together, the better. Ideally, the center to center distance should be 1/4 wavelength or less at the crossover frequency. In the real world, that's not usually possible, but closer is always better.
HTH
Doug
1. Try putting your speakers flush against a wall as a test. If they sound better, your crossover needs "baffle step" correction to sit further out in the room.
2. I would re-do your front baffle. The closer you can get the tweeter and midrange together, the better. Ideally, the center to center distance should be 1/4 wavelength or less at the crossover frequency. In the real world, that's not usually possible, but closer is always better.
HTH
Doug
I presume the MR polarity is reversed against W and Tw, if not, try it. If already is, try the other way round.What about the crossover? Is it coherent with the drivers used? The frequency cut-off curves are at approx 700 HZ 6db and 6000Hz 12db for the tweeter?
Given the apparent distance between TW and MR acoustic centers, I believe 6000Hz xover point is way too high. Do 344/D(meters) and this F is the max. to avoid beaming issues.
The form factor of your cabs suggest that maybe you have build an involuntary MLTL, and probably the port lenght calc for a regular BR doesn't hold, and You need to shorten those tubes..
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It's a very low Q driver, at .24, so if you tune the box for max extension it's going to be a bit anemic. If you're prepared to give up some of that extension for more solidity higher up, you could try tuning higher....
Lojzek's sim confirms this
a quick sim shows:
Tuned to 42Hz gives an F3 of 41.3Hz,
better than the recommended 33Hz which gives an F3 of 45.7
Lojzek's sim confirms this
a quick sim shows:
Tuned to 42Hz gives an F3 of 41.3Hz,
better than the recommended 33Hz which gives an F3 of 45.7
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as compared to the SPH255 with SPL 91db.
In theory it is 91db around 150hz - in your box you may get away 88db when placed close to a wall. As already suggested, too little, if none, baffle step compensation. To measure it correctly, you`d have to bring it out in an open field, in a typical room your measurement will be compromised below 250-300Hz.
That might be ubjective but to me HOLM Impulse appears the simplest of all, very user friendly. It is also well covered on the forum, just look up. It does lack a lot and the best one that is modestly priced is Arta. For impedance measurements you`d need its Limp (Arta`s). The guys who coded it actually provide it for free but you cannot save your work. For impedance, best would be to use your laptop`s headphone jack output.
I have an analogue mixer Soundcraft model Notepad 124FX with phantom power 48volts, I suppose that it should be ok to interface the mike ECM8000 with my Pc soundcard Creative Live SB24 using line input. As regards use of software am used to using Arta limp for impedance measurement and I prefer Limp to Rew as I find it more userfriendly, but as regards FR measurement I must admit that Ihave never ventured in that field due to lack of special microphone. As suggested by Mario I' ll go through HOLM Impulse manual in the meantime I receive the mike.
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