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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Goodmans Dimension 8 Speakers.
Goodmans Dimension 8 Speakers.
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Old 6th December 2018, 08:49 PM   #21
vishalk is offline vishalk  United Kingdom
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IMG_20181206_203201.jpg

IMG_20181206_203217.jpg

Better look at the crossover now they are out, seems the bass drivers and in series and parallel to make 4 ohm. Then the mids and tweets in parallel to also make 4ohm.

Each bass driver is 4 ohm while the mids and tweeters are 8ohm.
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Old 7th December 2018, 02:28 AM   #22
irext is offline irext  Australia
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They remind me of DCM Time windows somewhat.
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Old 7th December 2018, 03:45 PM   #23
vishalk is offline vishalk  United Kingdom
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IMG_20181207_144836.jpg

Using supplied cotten bud end tooth picks to lift and locate weak areas on surround, then I use a syringe filled with glue to force the glue into the area. Works really well.


IMG_20181207_153209.jpg

IMG_20181207_153220.jpg

Stripping boxes down, the bottom base could be better, thinking im just going to get these remade in thicker MDF and attach speaker spikes instead.

The old speaker connector have to go, warped and just allows air to leak from them.
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Old 7th December 2018, 05:08 PM   #24
Galu is offline Galu  Scotland
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A more solid plinth would do no harm!

Which glue/glue kit did you use on the surrounds?

Application by syringe is ideal for this purpose.
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Old 8th December 2018, 09:09 AM   #25
vishalk is offline vishalk  United Kingdom
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IMG_20181208_085623.jpg

IMG_20181208_085657.jpg

IMG_20181208_085633.jpg

Comparing drivers, the goodmans is a cast chassis a real heavy weight, where as the dayton is pressed steel, light and cheap.

IMG_20181208_085851.jpg

IMG_20181208_085902.jpg

Enclosure for midrange and tweeter. Front panel is metal where as the enclosure is plastic, a foam ring acts as speaker wadding.

The plastic itself is thin and flexible, here I will use sound deadening material so it's more dense and less of a hollow feeling, think I may also pack it proper wadding instead of the foam ring.

Last edited by vishalk; 8th December 2018 at 09:12 AM.
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Old 8th December 2018, 11:35 AM   #26
Galu is offline Galu  Scotland
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I understand that the Dayton DATS V2 is a speaker measurement system, but where do the Dayton drivers come in? I presume you are just picturing them for comparison purposes?

Replacing the tired, old foam rings (gaskets) is a good idea, as is damping the walls of the plastic enclosure. Dedshete self-adhesive bitumen damping panels would be good for the latter purpose and foam sealing tape for the former.

Dedshete Panel Standard

Gasket Sealing Strip

Would still like to know which glue you used on the speaker surrounds.

Last edited by Galu; 8th December 2018 at 11:46 AM.
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Old 8th December 2018, 12:16 PM   #27
vishalk is offline vishalk  United Kingdom
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Just comparing the drivers old vs modern,

One bottle 30ml genuine TANNOY correct speaker fixing glue, speaker repairs | eBay

Is what I used.

Thanks for the links!
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Old 8th December 2018, 05:46 PM   #28
Galu is offline Galu  Scotland
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Thanks for the pics! Following with interest.

The Tannoy glue looks good. For reference, I've used 'Anita's Tacky PVA Glue' with good results.

Anita's Tacky PVA Glue

I suggest damping the vibrations of the plastic midrange enclosure by applying strips of Dedshete to the outside of the enclosure.

I presume the mid enclosure contained absorbent material - was it the foam you mentioned earlier?
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Old 8th December 2018, 06:02 PM   #29
olsond3 is offline olsond3  United States
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Those look great. Nice job restoring them.
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Old 8th December 2018, 08:52 PM   #30
vishalk is offline vishalk  United Kingdom
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Default Midrange repair

InShot_20181208_203132294.mp4

IMG_20181206_152003.jpg

Here you can see where the glue has come away and the voice coil is slipping through the cone which was noted in the spikes measured on the dayton dat, moved the cone up glued in the space then used a cotton bud to spread the glue over the cone and coil. Left to dry, good as new!

Last edited by vishalk; 8th December 2018 at 08:54 PM.
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