I totally agree, but hope that we are putting sonyzz on an upward learning curve!
It's diy audio, and how better to learn than by doing?
what i did so far:
1. recaped one crossover to nichicon bipolar electrolytic capacitors and cleaned the hot glue IMG_20181109_190723.jpg - Google Drive
2. cleaned the flux gunk chinese left on the pcb's with isopropyl alcohol (99.9% i use it for cleaning computer parts and thermal pastes from computer components such as cpu's, gpu's, chipsets - from time to time) IMG_20181109_190834.jpg - Google Drive
3. finished rewiring first crossover with 0.4mm OFC konig wire - nichicon capacitors IMG_20181109_203017.jpg - Google Drive
4. sticked some wadding to the mid driver chamber walls (there was some but it was floating inside) IMG_20181110_122042.jpg - Google Drive
5. finished sticking wadding on the front piece of the box IMG_20181110_131622.jpg - Google Drive
6. rewired subwoofer with 0.75mm OFC konig wire, and second crossover - polypropylene capacitors https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WtAMYhhNirnnICEV3das7D5igw0lt6zW/view , https://drive.google.com/open?id=1TKQU1fknYfWgS0P7CvfPTzKYIS4ikpAx (freaking massive - 10uF is about 4-5 times larger than nichicon and 7 times than yontex) put the box back together without screwing it, did some frequency tests (it seems that midrange drive go as low as 60Hz, and tweeter takes over from like 1kHz also sub plays until about 800Hz lol) also listened some music, the highs and mid's were much richer on both crossovers than with yontex caps, nichicon vs polypropylene in mids i dont notice that much difference but in highs - right side (crossover with polypropylene capacitors) sounds better, highs are much cleaner, on left side was a bit muddy so i guess i recap left crossover to polypropylene caps and call it a day, or should i better use electrolytic for mids and polypropylene for highs only? even i have plenty of them and can recap, what i mean by that is maybe electrolytic caps somehow protect the drivers with theyr ESR, or its just because its cheaper and smaller in size for manufacturer and has nothing to do with protecting the driver also on polypropylene caps with that el cheapo ESR tester it shows 0.00 ohms ESR and vloss of 0% while on electrolytics it shows 1.6-1.8% vloss and 0.10-0.21 of ESR
1. recaped one crossover to nichicon bipolar electrolytic capacitors and cleaned the hot glue IMG_20181109_190723.jpg - Google Drive
2. cleaned the flux gunk chinese left on the pcb's with isopropyl alcohol (99.9% i use it for cleaning computer parts and thermal pastes from computer components such as cpu's, gpu's, chipsets - from time to time) IMG_20181109_190834.jpg - Google Drive
3. finished rewiring first crossover with 0.4mm OFC konig wire - nichicon capacitors IMG_20181109_203017.jpg - Google Drive
4. sticked some wadding to the mid driver chamber walls (there was some but it was floating inside) IMG_20181110_122042.jpg - Google Drive
5. finished sticking wadding on the front piece of the box IMG_20181110_131622.jpg - Google Drive
6. rewired subwoofer with 0.75mm OFC konig wire, and second crossover - polypropylene capacitors https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WtAMYhhNirnnICEV3das7D5igw0lt6zW/view , https://drive.google.com/open?id=1TKQU1fknYfWgS0P7CvfPTzKYIS4ikpAx (freaking massive - 10uF is about 4-5 times larger than nichicon and 7 times than yontex) put the box back together without screwing it, did some frequency tests (it seems that midrange drive go as low as 60Hz, and tweeter takes over from like 1kHz also sub plays until about 800Hz lol) also listened some music, the highs and mid's were much richer on both crossovers than with yontex caps, nichicon vs polypropylene in mids i dont notice that much difference but in highs - right side (crossover with polypropylene capacitors) sounds better, highs are much cleaner, on left side was a bit muddy so i guess i recap left crossover to polypropylene caps and call it a day, or should i better use electrolytic for mids and polypropylene for highs only? even i have plenty of them and can recap, what i mean by that is maybe electrolytic caps somehow protect the drivers with theyr ESR, or its just because its cheaper and smaller in size for manufacturer and has nothing to do with protecting the driver
also on polypropylene caps with that el cheapo ESR tester it shows 0.00 ohms ESR and vloss of 0% while on electrolytics it shows 1.6-1.8% vloss and 0.10-0.21 of ESR
Last edited:
Neat work! Glad you're distinguishing improvements in the sound.
I'd certainly go for a full upgrade using the film caps, which look just the part.
The ESR of an electrolytic will do nothing to 'protect' the drivers. The manufacturer simply chose electrolytics because they are cheap, which results in bigger profits for them!
I'd certainly go for a full upgrade using the film caps, which look just the part.
The ESR of an electrolytic will do nothing to 'protect' the drivers. The manufacturer simply chose electrolytics because they are cheap, which results in bigger profits for them!
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.