So i own a pair of B&W dm602 s3 speakers and i really love them, except for the sharp tweeter...
They sound otherwise really good, but the sharp tweeters make all "s" sounds in vocals really harsh, and some other high frequencies are also really sharp.
They are still good to listen to, but really fatiguing.
I have googled around for a solution, and people say to buy acoustic panels or buy a new amplifier.
I have them in a ~5mx5mx2,5m room with a bed, sofa, a lot of furniture, a textured ceiling, and a large carpet in front of the speakers, so i don't really think it's the room. I have tried them in another room (many times larger) and there they sounded a lot better, but also lacked some other sounds and volume (the room contains a pair of cv 215xl speakers).
And my amplifier is a Yamaha rx-v659, witch is measured to have an output of 120w @ 8ohm stereo and is praised to be very neutral compared to all other receivers.
Then i found a frequency graph of the dm602s3 that showed a bump around the 9-10khz area(if i remember correctly), and that it could be fixed at the crossover.
I found someone who had measured the dm601s3 and had similar bumps in the highs. He(she?) then opened up the speaker and changed the crossover a lot, but very neatly and also reused some old parts. Then measured again and the graphs show a big difference.
Here's the link to his page:
B&W Bowers Wilkins DM 601-S3 Crossover Upgrade for Better Midrange Perfoprmance
I then thought that i could do the same mod on my dm602s3 because the only difference in them is the 1-2 inch increase in woofer size
I opened up my speakers and looked at the crossover.
you can see the dm601s3 crossover in the link, and the dm602s3 crossover was exactly the same except that the 4.7uF cap changed to 6.8uF.
I am not very educated about speakers, but i know how to follow instructions.
So please, can someone help me change my crossover the same way that the guy at rutchu.com did.
And please correct me if i'm wrong about something.
They sound otherwise really good, but the sharp tweeters make all "s" sounds in vocals really harsh, and some other high frequencies are also really sharp.
They are still good to listen to, but really fatiguing.
I have googled around for a solution, and people say to buy acoustic panels or buy a new amplifier.
I have them in a ~5mx5mx2,5m room with a bed, sofa, a lot of furniture, a textured ceiling, and a large carpet in front of the speakers, so i don't really think it's the room. I have tried them in another room (many times larger) and there they sounded a lot better, but also lacked some other sounds and volume (the room contains a pair of cv 215xl speakers).
And my amplifier is a Yamaha rx-v659, witch is measured to have an output of 120w @ 8ohm stereo and is praised to be very neutral compared to all other receivers.
Then i found a frequency graph of the dm602s3 that showed a bump around the 9-10khz area(if i remember correctly), and that it could be fixed at the crossover.
I found someone who had measured the dm601s3 and had similar bumps in the highs. He(she?) then opened up the speaker and changed the crossover a lot, but very neatly and also reused some old parts. Then measured again and the graphs show a big difference.
Here's the link to his page:
B&W Bowers Wilkins DM 601-S3 Crossover Upgrade for Better Midrange Perfoprmance
I then thought that i could do the same mod on my dm602s3 because the only difference in them is the 1-2 inch increase in woofer size
I opened up my speakers and looked at the crossover.
you can see the dm601s3 crossover in the link, and the dm602s3 crossover was exactly the same except that the 4.7uF cap changed to 6.8uF.
I am not very educated about speakers, but i know how to follow instructions.
So please, can someone help me change my crossover the same way that the guy at rutchu.com did.
And please correct me if i'm wrong about something.
B&W are very good on publishing very exact service manuals that help a lot. 
B&W Group North America Service & Support - Home
Very thorough upgrade article you quoted too. AFAIK, the only difference to your DM602-S3 speaker is you have a 6" rather than 7" kevlar Woofer.
I'd be wary of trying to diagnose the exact fatiguieing brightness issue. It could well be the breakup from the wooofer around 4-5kHz, not the tweeter.
Anyhoo, here's what I thought was worth trying. Steeper bass rolloff. Steeper tweeter rolloff without any change to caps and coils. A 4.7R plus 1uF Zobel to tame the extreme top end. Swap tweeter polarity. We lose the shunt 1.8R in the tweeter filter, and put it in front for a higher impedance near 6 ohms. Slightly different to your article quoted below, but the phase issues are different too.
Should sound smoother and much less bright at the top end. The Zobel is optional really and the rest of the mod is dead easy on existing circuit board.
B&W Group North America Service & Support - Home
Very thorough upgrade article you quoted too. AFAIK, the only difference to your DM602-S3 speaker is you have a 6" rather than 7" kevlar Woofer.
I'd be wary of trying to diagnose the exact fatiguieing brightness issue. It could well be the breakup from the wooofer around 4-5kHz, not the tweeter.
Anyhoo, here's what I thought was worth trying. Steeper bass rolloff. Steeper tweeter rolloff without any change to caps and coils. A 4.7R plus 1uF Zobel to tame the extreme top end. Swap tweeter polarity. We lose the shunt 1.8R in the tweeter filter, and put it in front for a higher impedance near 6 ohms. Slightly different to your article quoted below, but the phase issues are different too.
Should sound smoother and much less bright at the top end. The Zobel is optional really and the rest of the mod is dead easy on existing circuit board.
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I am sorry to not have replied. I had school come in the way so i didn't have time to research nor buy anything.
Sorry for not understanding but as i wrote; dm602s3 had a 6.8uF cap for the tweeter, instead of the 4,7uF in all of the pictures. There were also some other differences that you corrected (other than the 1,10mH inductor that says 1,15mH in the service manual, but i'll assume that to be a mistake.)
But you had tput the 4,7uF cap in your circuit. Was it intentionally changed, or did you change it by mistake?
Can you also tell me how good quality parts i should buy for the 4,7R and 1uF Zobel? Should i buy the cheapest one, or opt for a little more expensive one? Does it make a difference?
I live in Northern Europe so ordering these parts becomes pricey really fast, and this is a budget setup. Speakers cost me 175€ and amp was 100€ etc.
That is why i want to find the best and cheapest possible solution for correcting these speakers.
I tested with equalizer apo that the sharpness is "mostly" somewhere between 9kHz and 13kHz.
I have seen a thread where someone put a wooden phase plug in instead of the plastic dome. He said it helped with the sharpness from the cone breakup but later went on to install some other tweeters that played lower because of the new frequency range of the woofer.
If i got the best sound from just installing the phase plug, then i would do it because it would be free, but it is irreversible and i can't buy new speakers if it doesn't work.
I think that changing the crossover is relatively cheap and reversible but i can't start experimenting and ordering lots of different parts. Sorry but you seemed a little bit unsure and like this would be a test (as it actually is), but if you think that there would be some other way to simply do the same thing, that might work better, might not, like changing one part in this "equation", please tell me so that i can order everything with one shipping cost.
Sorry for the long writing and waiting.
And thank you in advance.
Sorry for not understanding but as i wrote; dm602s3 had a 6.8uF cap for the tweeter, instead of the 4,7uF in all of the pictures. There were also some other differences that you corrected (other than the 1,10mH inductor that says 1,15mH in the service manual, but i'll assume that to be a mistake.)
But you had tput the 4,7uF cap in your circuit. Was it intentionally changed, or did you change it by mistake?
Can you also tell me how good quality parts i should buy for the 4,7R and 1uF Zobel? Should i buy the cheapest one, or opt for a little more expensive one? Does it make a difference?
I live in Northern Europe so ordering these parts becomes pricey really fast, and this is a budget setup. Speakers cost me 175€ and amp was 100€ etc.
That is why i want to find the best and cheapest possible solution for correcting these speakers.
I tested with equalizer apo that the sharpness is "mostly" somewhere between 9kHz and 13kHz.
I have seen a thread where someone put a wooden phase plug in instead of the plastic dome. He said it helped with the sharpness from the cone breakup but later went on to install some other tweeters that played lower because of the new frequency range of the woofer.
If i got the best sound from just installing the phase plug, then i would do it because it would be free, but it is irreversible and i can't buy new speakers if it doesn't work.
I think that changing the crossover is relatively cheap and reversible but i can't start experimenting and ordering lots of different parts. Sorry but you seemed a little bit unsure and like this would be a test (as it actually is), but if you think that there would be some other way to simply do the same thing, that might work better, might not, like changing one part in this "equation", please tell me so that i can order everything with one shipping cost.
Sorry for the long writing and waiting.
And thank you in advance.
Hi,
Buy some resistors of good quality and connect them as this:
Tweeter level adjustment
Try this. If it doesn't work, I'm afraid you need a new cross-over design. B&W speakers usually have a very bad cross-over design, which is a shame since the drivers are usually quite nice.
Thank you for the answers.
Now I have 3 different ways of doing this. First the original mod i linked, second I have system7's answer and third i have this.
To only change one resistor would be the simplest but i will still get many times the cost of the parts in delivery cost.
What would be the difference in frequency response of these three choices?
I don't mean to be rude but I think there was a reason that the dm601 crossover modder changed other parts in the crossover too.
From what i read the lowest impedance was also changed from 3 Ohm to 4,4 Ohm and the change also made the woofer and tweeter drop in frequency more at the crossover point.
These are among things that should make the speaker sound better and it really wouldn't cost much more either.
So my question is; do these aforementioned changes help sound quality and should I try them, or should i try the changes that system7 suggested?
Sorry for not posting for long. I have just been enjoying my "new" speakers so I haven't had the need to search the DIY-forums.
I did do the complete upgrade that was listed for the DM601s3 speakers, with the exception of some part that was different in the DM602 vs the DM601. I could check it up, but I did play around with the parts in Vituixcad, just to see how big a difference it would make. I remember it to have been a negligible difference.
I bought some decent crossover parts as recommended and spent a total of about 35€, which I think was extremely worth it on top of the 175€ I paid for the speakers. You can buy just as expensive parts as you want, some say they increase clarity, but you'll be the judge.
It was very easy to open the speakers, solder everything on it's place and put it back together. Just make sure your solder joints are good and not cold-soldered.
When I put them back on their "cat-sand"-filled aluminum stands and tried them for the first time, I was amazed.
The speakers are now very pleasant to listen to and all the harshness is gone. As an effect of this, they aren't as loud anymore, but I found myself to be able to turn up the volume a lot higher than before, event the maximum 2x120W I have for them, and they still don't sound harsh. And with the extra volume they still sound a lot louder than I could ever listen to them before, so it is a win-win.
The clarity of vocals also increased with the lower crossover point and heavy bass doesn't affect vocals as much anymore. As tends to happen with small 2-way systems. The sound is overall tighter and faster and more enjoyable.
I even measured them with a Umik-1 from the listening position a couple of meters away and they measure very flat from about 100hz-20khz.
I sole-heartedly recommend this upgrade and I challenge people to improve it even more. Because the potential of these "cheap" speakers is very large.
I did do the complete upgrade that was listed for the DM601s3 speakers, with the exception of some part that was different in the DM602 vs the DM601. I could check it up, but I did play around with the parts in Vituixcad, just to see how big a difference it would make. I remember it to have been a negligible difference.
I bought some decent crossover parts as recommended and spent a total of about 35€, which I think was extremely worth it on top of the 175€ I paid for the speakers. You can buy just as expensive parts as you want, some say they increase clarity, but you'll be the judge.
It was very easy to open the speakers, solder everything on it's place and put it back together. Just make sure your solder joints are good and not cold-soldered.
When I put them back on their "cat-sand"-filled aluminum stands and tried them for the first time, I was amazed.
The speakers are now very pleasant to listen to and all the harshness is gone. As an effect of this, they aren't as loud anymore, but I found myself to be able to turn up the volume a lot higher than before, event the maximum 2x120W I have for them, and they still don't sound harsh. And with the extra volume they still sound a lot louder than I could ever listen to them before, so it is a win-win.
The clarity of vocals also increased with the lower crossover point and heavy bass doesn't affect vocals as much anymore. As tends to happen with small 2-way systems. The sound is overall tighter and faster and more enjoyable.
I even measured them with a Umik-1 from the listening position a couple of meters away and they measure very flat from about 100hz-20khz.
I sole-heartedly recommend this upgrade and I challenge people to improve it even more. Because the potential of these "cheap" speakers is very large.
Do you happen to have a schematic with crossover values for the changes you made? I'm at the point where I need to either make my 602s sound better, or part them out. I still have my ancient B&W DM110s I bought when I was in university, and to my ears, those with their 8" paper woofer and 28mm silk tweeter sound better than the DM602S2. I bought the 602s for $100, with damaged tweeters. One of them I was able to disassemble and fix the dent, but the other suffered more extensive damage and has a torn metal dome. Stock replacements are hard to find and cost way too much money, but I found a very nice option for replacement.
Putting a lot of money into a fix doesn't make much sense though as there are so many other options on the used market. I bought a pair of Klipsch RP600Ms for $350 last winter. Just found a mint pair of DynAudio 2/7s for $300. Klipsch Heresy IIs and KLF20s regularly trade for around $500/pair.
Putting a lot of money into a fix doesn't make much sense though as there are so many other options on the used market. I bought a pair of Klipsch RP600Ms for $350 last winter. Just found a mint pair of DynAudio 2/7s for $300. Klipsch Heresy IIs and KLF20s regularly trade for around $500/pair.
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IIrc, this is the final crossover I came up with. You can go and compare it to the dm602 upgrade and B&W official repair manual's crossover.
It is a little messy but this was my first time modelling crossovers.
Just remember to use air-core inductors, film caps and at least not-basic resistors.
In my opinion the dm602 would be a better speaker to upgrade because they have more bass extension and they look a lot better (if in good shape), but the older model might as well sound just as good with a good crossover.
I went with the cheap route using most of the original parts and the cost was not much, but upgrading everything might be worth it.
If you go and see GR-Research on youtube, you will realize that close to none of the well known speaker manufacturers, like Klipsch, have good enough crossovers and flat responses. So upgrading a cheaper pair with good drivers might be the way to go.
IIrc he had a video of the upgrade for the RP600M and he has an upgrade-kit on his website for it.
IIrc, this is the final crossover I came up with. You can go and compare it to the dm602 upgrade and B&W official repair manual's crossover.
It is a little messy but this was my first time modelling crossovers.
Just remember to use air-core inductors, film caps and at least not-basic resistors.
In my opinion the dm602 would be a better speaker to upgrade because they have more bass extension and they look a lot better (if in good shape), but the older model might as well sound just as good with a good crossover.
I went with the cheap route using most of the original parts and the cost was not much, but upgrading everything might be worth it.
If you go and see GR-Research on youtube, you will realize that close to none of the well known speaker manufacturers, like Klipsch, have good enough crossovers and flat responses. So upgrading a cheaper pair with good drivers might be the way to go.
IIrc he had a video of the upgrade for the RP600M and he has an upgrade-kit on his website for it.
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I have tried the Rutcho-upgrade on my Dm602 S3. At first i loved it, but after hours of listening, I found it too midtone-y (if that's a word). There where a metallic ring to it which was propably caused by a peak around the 2k area in the tweeter.
What I did like about his mod was the more tidy highend, which probably is caused by keeping the woofer out of the 10k area (as he suggests). So I have experimented quite a bit using my ears, a handful of components, and the lovely VituixCAD-app to get a sound more appropriate for my rock taste (This is the disclaimer part: I haven't made any measurements at all, only my fairly well trained ears and the aforementioned app. So use this example at your own risk).
First, I went back and restored the high pass part of the crossover, but changed the original 0,47 ohms to 1,5 as I found the former too "trebly" and the rutcho-suggested 3,3 ohms on the other hand made it too muffled. I also changed the 1,5 ohms parallel resistor to 1,8 to round the shoulder of the roll off a tad. (I find the tweeter quite agressive in the lower highs). At first I tried the 6,8 uf in parallel in the low pass area. It was a bit too stale. Then I tried the Rutcho approved 4,7, but that made it too dominant in the 2k area. I settled at 6uf.
The attached diagram shows the final result. I added af 0,1uf in parallel to the 10uf to get a little "ghost breath" - not shure if it does anything, really, but in theory it is adding to the detail in the high end.
I used Jantzen Audio caps for all of the rebuild. I got carried away so especially the 3,3 uf was quite expensive (A Jantzen Alumen Cap at 279 DKR / 45 USD. On sale.) The rest is mostly Cross Cap and a Superior Cap (the 0,1 uf bit).
Now I am really content with the overall sound. Airy top. present midtone. Deep bass.
(Amplifier: NAD Amp1)
What I did like about his mod was the more tidy highend, which probably is caused by keeping the woofer out of the 10k area (as he suggests). So I have experimented quite a bit using my ears, a handful of components, and the lovely VituixCAD-app to get a sound more appropriate for my rock taste (This is the disclaimer part: I haven't made any measurements at all, only my fairly well trained ears and the aforementioned app. So use this example at your own risk).
First, I went back and restored the high pass part of the crossover, but changed the original 0,47 ohms to 1,5 as I found the former too "trebly" and the rutcho-suggested 3,3 ohms on the other hand made it too muffled. I also changed the 1,5 ohms parallel resistor to 1,8 to round the shoulder of the roll off a tad. (I find the tweeter quite agressive in the lower highs). At first I tried the 6,8 uf in parallel in the low pass area. It was a bit too stale. Then I tried the Rutcho approved 4,7, but that made it too dominant in the 2k area. I settled at 6uf.
The attached diagram shows the final result. I added af 0,1uf in parallel to the 10uf to get a little "ghost breath" - not shure if it does anything, really, but in theory it is adding to the detail in the high end.
I used Jantzen Audio caps for all of the rebuild. I got carried away so especially the 3,3 uf was quite expensive (A Jantzen Alumen Cap at 279 DKR / 45 USD. On sale.) The rest is mostly Cross Cap and a Superior Cap (the 0,1 uf bit).
Now I am really content with the overall sound. Airy top. present midtone. Deep bass.
(Amplifier: NAD Amp1)
Attachments
I realize this is an old thread. I got a pair of original series DM601 along with a Matrix HTM 805 center channel I needed. The 805 sounds incredible. I tested the DM601's to possibly use as rears, and they sounded terrible to me. Extremely bright, undefined mids, and the lows were just lost.
I did the Rutcho mod, which was a little more difficult on the original series PCB. The improvement was incredible. They sound like completely different speakers. They actually sound very similar to my 805 now. Although, off axis response doesn't seem anywhere near as good as the 805. The mids are very clear and balanced. They now have very audible, warm bass. I would not go lower than the 3.3R resistor, because they still have plenty of high end. I'm not sure if it's the characteristic of the tweeter, but they don't sound as flat as they appear on his plot. This is a great mod. I will now be using these as rears in a 5.1 surround setup, and may get another pair for 5.1.2
I did the Rutcho mod, which was a little more difficult on the original series PCB. The improvement was incredible. They sound like completely different speakers. They actually sound very similar to my 805 now. Although, off axis response doesn't seem anywhere near as good as the 805. The mids are very clear and balanced. They now have very audible, warm bass. I would not go lower than the 3.3R resistor, because they still have plenty of high end. I'm not sure if it's the characteristic of the tweeter, but they don't sound as flat as they appear on his plot. This is a great mod. I will now be using these as rears in a 5.1 surround setup, and may get another pair for 5.1.2
I'm unsure if it really works that well in the s1 and s2.
The s2 has almost the same components, but the s1 has a vastly different tweeter what I know of. It might still work, but not as good.
I still love mine to bits. They measure very flat. They do have a little downwards tilted top end, but I have liked it very much, especially at high volumes.
I have come to like a more crisp sound now with car audio, so I might try playing with the resistor. I would also upgrade all the original parts for better quality ones.
The s2 has almost the same components, but the s1 has a vastly different tweeter what I know of. It might still work, but not as good.
I still love mine to bits. They measure very flat. They do have a little downwards tilted top end, but I have liked it very much, especially at high volumes.
I have come to like a more crisp sound now with car audio, so I might try playing with the resistor. I would also upgrade all the original parts for better quality ones.
Hi,
Newbie here!
Registered as I'm really curious about your Rutcho mod on DM601 s1: did you change the inductors?
I see that the s1 uses inductors 1.4mH and 0.15mH similar in value to the s3's 1.2mH and 0.16mH.
My s2 inductors however are 0.95mH and 0.08mH. I'm worried if I complete the upgrade the sound will be way off.
I'm love my DM601 s2s but the ice-picking uncontrolled treble is really getting to me. I was ready to get the new LS50 metas, but realised my amp would not be up to the task (old 40W Rotel RA04 SE). Before splashing out on £3k+ for new speakers and amp, thought I would give my DM601s2 a second chance with upgraded cross-overs.
Any advice would be really welcomed!
Upgrading DM601 s2 crossover
If anyone is looking to upgrade their 20 year old DM601 s2 crossovers following Rutcho's DM601 s3 instructions, here's an important note:
Do NOT reverse the tweeter's polarity. I reversed mine and found the sparkle completely gone. Turns out B&W had already reversed them (red cable was already connected to negative speaker terminal).
I upgraded my crossovers with Jantzen Standard capacitors and Mills resistors. I did look at more expensive caps but just wanted a stop-gap before buying my next set of speakers, so decided to keep it cheap. I kept the original inductors (coils) and purchased these:
2 x (RES-M1090) - 1R8 12W MRA12 Mills Resistor (1.8R) - £10.08 (£5.04 each)
2 x (RES-M1120) - 3R3 12W MRA12 Mills Resistor (3.3R) - £10.08 (£5.04 each)
2 x 001-0446: 10uF 400Vdc Jantzen Standard Z-Cap - £10.78 (£5.39 each)
2 x 001-0425: 3.3uF 400Vdc Jantzen Standard Z-Cap - £4.22 (£2.11 each)
2 x 001-0434: 4.7uF 400Vdc Jantzen Standard Z-Cap - £5.66 (£2.83 each)
Result
- The tweeters are finally tamed!! I've been listening to music for 4 hours continuously on higher volumes than usual and my ears are still not tired! The highs no longer pierce my ears whilst remaining defined and present. String instruments and cymbals have never sounded so good.
- The added LP filter (4.7uF cap and 1R8 resistor) helps bring out a LOT of detail in the mids and lows. This could also be the result of the tamed tweeters allowing me to play at louder volumes, thereby raising the presence of lows and mids to where they should be. Vocals are far far more present and forward; my jazz collection has never sounded so good.
- On the down side: upper mids/lower highs remain a little muddy. So no improvement over the original crossover. I'm hoping this will get better once the caps have burnt in with 100-300 hours of listening. This issue mostly affects loud and busy rock tracks (which isn't my style of music in the first place). Or it could simply be the quality of my recordings or the limitation of these 20 year old speakers.
Anyway, I'm really glad I completed this upgrade and would recommend anyone looking to replace their DM601 s2 because of the harsh tweeters to try this first!
Photos of the upgrade:
If anyone is looking to upgrade their 20 year old DM601 s2 crossovers following Rutcho's DM601 s3 instructions, here's an important note:
Do NOT reverse the tweeter's polarity. I reversed mine and found the sparkle completely gone. Turns out B&W had already reversed them (red cable was already connected to negative speaker terminal).
I upgraded my crossovers with Jantzen Standard capacitors and Mills resistors. I did look at more expensive caps but just wanted a stop-gap before buying my next set of speakers, so decided to keep it cheap. I kept the original inductors (coils) and purchased these:
2 x (RES-M1090) - 1R8 12W MRA12 Mills Resistor (1.8R) - £10.08 (£5.04 each)
2 x (RES-M1120) - 3R3 12W MRA12 Mills Resistor (3.3R) - £10.08 (£5.04 each)
2 x 001-0446: 10uF 400Vdc Jantzen Standard Z-Cap - £10.78 (£5.39 each)
2 x 001-0425: 3.3uF 400Vdc Jantzen Standard Z-Cap - £4.22 (£2.11 each)
2 x 001-0434: 4.7uF 400Vdc Jantzen Standard Z-Cap - £5.66 (£2.83 each)
Result
- The tweeters are finally tamed!! I've been listening to music for 4 hours continuously on higher volumes than usual and my ears are still not tired! The highs no longer pierce my ears whilst remaining defined and present. String instruments and cymbals have never sounded so good.
- The added LP filter (4.7uF cap and 1R8 resistor) helps bring out a LOT of detail in the mids and lows. This could also be the result of the tamed tweeters allowing me to play at louder volumes, thereby raising the presence of lows and mids to where they should be. Vocals are far far more present and forward; my jazz collection has never sounded so good.
- On the down side: upper mids/lower highs remain a little muddy. So no improvement over the original crossover. I'm hoping this will get better once the caps have burnt in with 100-300 hours of listening. This issue mostly affects loud and busy rock tracks (which isn't my style of music in the first place). Or it could simply be the quality of my recordings or the limitation of these 20 year old speakers.
Anyway, I'm really glad I completed this upgrade and would recommend anyone looking to replace their DM601 s2 because of the harsh tweeters to try this first!
Photos of the upgrade:
Attachments
Good night (night over here).
In the end I have decided to modify the crossover of my BW DM602 (S1).
I have replaced the bipolar capacitors with film.
The values are those indicated by Rutcho and the resistors with values indicated by EggsBegs. I have inverted the tweeter.
The change has been amazing for the better. The highs are smooth, not tiring; clear, crisp mids; the bass is present, pleasant but does not mess up the mids.
What has impacted me the most is the substantial improvement of the setting; The instruments, the voices, are even better identified outside and behind the speakers.
As I am a hard head and to rule out that this change is not something subjective, I have returned to the original values and it really did not take more than 30 minutes to return to the modified crossover.
I couldn't stand how it sounded with the original crossover.
I don't know if this modification is correct from the point of view of the frequency response, but the main thing, for my ears it is better than the sound they had.
Greetings and thanks for the tips
Jose from Montevideo, Uruguay.
In the end I have decided to modify the crossover of my BW DM602 (S1).
I have replaced the bipolar capacitors with film.
The values are those indicated by Rutcho and the resistors with values indicated by EggsBegs. I have inverted the tweeter.
The change has been amazing for the better. The highs are smooth, not tiring; clear, crisp mids; the bass is present, pleasant but does not mess up the mids.
What has impacted me the most is the substantial improvement of the setting; The instruments, the voices, are even better identified outside and behind the speakers.
As I am a hard head and to rule out that this change is not something subjective, I have returned to the original values and it really did not take more than 30 minutes to return to the modified crossover.
I couldn't stand how it sounded with the original crossover.
I don't know if this modification is correct from the point of view of the frequency response, but the main thing, for my ears it is better than the sound they had.
Greetings and thanks for the tips
Jose from Montevideo, Uruguay.
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