If you can find air coils with the same DCR rating, go for it, and let us know about these parts. However, I am pretty sure such parts will be very hard to find in this universe
Don't worry, the iron cores of the specified inductors will not saturate easily, unless you intend to run humungeous amounts of current through them.
Just remembered this. I hope you're not a victim of the Mundorf silver-gold-oil hype in the German hifi press. I recommend to stay away from this moonshine pixie dust nonsense.
I have already found all the parts as suggested in your pdf, just have to order them.
I'm absolutely not a fan of boutique parts anyway. If possible I use industrial parts wherever I can.
M,
Yes, and it was all on me. All with caps. All to do with quantity. The good news is I can work on one speaker xover until the shortage arrives. My xovers are in a separate space (200mm high) that is an extension of the speaker cabinet. I want to get the cabs in hand though before I actually build the boards. I want to make them as big as possible and separate them as much as possible to try and limit cross talk between the big inductors. I am thinking I will set it up like you did. I read the post on inductor orientation and separation. I will definitely post pics for review before I mount them as I don't want a mistake. And, I know I will have wiring questions because I have never done speakon before. But, I am a one step at a time person when unfamiliar so will ask when time comes.
Got the ports. They are big. 4 - 4in x 12in cut to length. I figure I will press fit them. They are straight thin wall ports. I will do a dry runs to set up the circle jig for the router cut. This is definitely a one off project. Again, thank you for all your work on This project.
I am kind of cross posting since I think this is the larger viewership of the two sites. May do some double posts. Open to suggestions.
Don
Yes, and it was all on me. All with caps. All to do with quantity. The good news is I can work on one speaker xover until the shortage arrives. My xovers are in a separate space (200mm high) that is an extension of the speaker cabinet. I want to get the cabs in hand though before I actually build the boards. I want to make them as big as possible and separate them as much as possible to try and limit cross talk between the big inductors. I am thinking I will set it up like you did. I read the post on inductor orientation and separation. I will definitely post pics for review before I mount them as I don't want a mistake. And, I know I will have wiring questions because I have never done speakon before. But, I am a one step at a time person when unfamiliar so will ask when time comes.
Got the ports. They are big. 4 - 4in x 12in cut to length. I figure I will press fit them. They are straight thin wall ports. I will do a dry runs to set up the circle jig for the router cut. This is definitely a one off project. Again, thank you for all your work on This project.
I am kind of cross posting since I think this is the larger viewership of the two sites. May do some double posts. Open to suggestions.
Don
I would like to adjust the dimensions of the housing a little bit.
I suppose it wouldn’t hurt if I increase the baffle width by 2mm and
the height by 4mm to get a 380x700mm front, right?
By doing this the inner volume increases from 78,1 to 80,1 litres- is that still okay?
Otherwise I could apply some additional damping material.
(The Basotec damping material eats away a couple of litres from the originally calculated volume anyway)
I suppose it wouldn’t hurt if I increase the baffle width by 2mm and
the height by 4mm to get a 380x700mm front, right?
By doing this the inner volume increases from 78,1 to 80,1 litres- is that still okay?
Otherwise I could apply some additional damping material.
(The Basotec damping material eats away a couple of litres from the originally calculated volume anyway)
cabinet finishing
@ pfarrell,
I hope you are on frequency and all is well. I am looking for thoughts on the cabinet finish process. Not so much on what but when. Did you kind of do it parallel with some of the details of building xovers and other speaker details like the wiring, binding posts, etc. or did you just try and get it done in one fell swoop? Did you pretty much dry fit everything before the finish Process?
Mine are made from finish grade 18mm Baltic Birch so I need to put a finish on them. Or, is that 17mm now.
Thanks,
Regards,
Don
@ pfarrell,
I hope you are on frequency and all is well. I am looking for thoughts on the cabinet finish process. Not so much on what but when. Did you kind of do it parallel with some of the details of building xovers and other speaker details like the wiring, binding posts, etc. or did you just try and get it done in one fell swoop? Did you pretty much dry fit everything before the finish Process?
Mine are made from finish grade 18mm Baltic Birch so I need to put a finish on them. Or, is that 17mm now.
Thanks,
Regards,
Don
Don!
I put the Xovers in a separate box as you know, which I wasn't wild about when I first learned about the project, but now with more understanding—I think it's utterly brilliant. 1. because it's pure magic to me to be able to see how much copper the signal goes through—blows my mind every time—clear lids on my Xover boxes. 2. smaller cabinets and future options with other Xovers if I want to play. You'll have a bit more and less (ha!) to work out since you are putting Xovers in the cabinets. I had zero issues with crosstalk, that I can evaluate anyway. I did study what Matthias did—and reviewed the links that were posted about how to arrange coils for best results. Matthias also made some arrangement suggestions I followed from temp layout pics I posted back in this thread.
I jumped right in and made the Xover panels first. Then made the cabinets. Xover boxes were somewhat of a separate project. Test fit all the drivers—drilled all the holes—glue up, sand etc. Then finish paint everything before final assembly—which is when all the wiring happened as well. If you have exposed ply laters—expect them to telegraph over time under the finish unless you veneer them (and that will also telegraph, but less so with multiply)... unless of course you are going natural clear for your final—probably the move? I can highly recommend Bona Mega one-step. Totally brushable—lays down freakishly good. Not sure if I answered anything for you...
I put the Xovers in a separate box as you know, which I wasn't wild about when I first learned about the project, but now with more understanding—I think it's utterly brilliant. 1. because it's pure magic to me to be able to see how much copper the signal goes through—blows my mind every time—clear lids on my Xover boxes. 2. smaller cabinets and future options with other Xovers if I want to play. You'll have a bit more and less (ha!) to work out since you are putting Xovers in the cabinets. I had zero issues with crosstalk, that I can evaluate anyway. I did study what Matthias did—and reviewed the links that were posted about how to arrange coils for best results. Matthias also made some arrangement suggestions I followed from temp layout pics I posted back in this thread.
I jumped right in and made the Xover panels first. Then made the cabinets. Xover boxes were somewhat of a separate project. Test fit all the drivers—drilled all the holes—glue up, sand etc. Then finish paint everything before final assembly—which is when all the wiring happened as well. If you have exposed ply laters—expect them to telegraph over time under the finish unless you veneer them (and that will also telegraph, but less so with multiply)... unless of course you are going natural clear for your final—probably the move? I can highly recommend Bona Mega one-step. Totally brushable—lays down freakishly good. Not sure if I answered anything for you...
Faital mounting screws
Time to start thinking about some details. My Faital woofers arrived yesterday. The drawings indicate it will take an M7 but I am thinking M6 for wiggle room and maybe head size fit. So, M6 button head hex drive in 18-8 stainless black oxide finish. Any reasons this shouldn't work and look good? Open to suggestions.
This project is weird. It seems like I have questions for even the simplest of things.
Thanks,
Don
Time to start thinking about some details. My Faital woofers arrived yesterday. The drawings indicate it will take an M7 but I am thinking M6 for wiggle room and maybe head size fit. So, M6 button head hex drive in 18-8 stainless black oxide finish. Any reasons this shouldn't work and look good? Open to suggestions.
This project is weird. It seems like I have questions for even the simplest of things.
Thanks,
Don