Looking very nice!
Don, I had a quick look at your xovers, but the photo is not always clear enough to see all details. Can you do closeups with better focus/detail of the three branches? Also, the woofer sees a larger box volume, which changes the bass-reflex tuning. I believe we discussed this in the Monkey Tower thread, but I am not sure what you came up with in the end. (How) did you adjust the impedance compensation of the woofer accodringly (Lw4 and Cw3 in the xover schematic)?
planet IX, is that a metallic screw to hold the small inductor in the woofer filter (and maybe others)? If so, make sure the screw(s) are non-magnetic! I prefer plastic screws/parts for this.
Don, I had a quick look at your xovers, but the photo is not always clear enough to see all details. Can you do closeups with better focus/detail of the three branches? Also, the woofer sees a larger box volume, which changes the bass-reflex tuning. I believe we discussed this in the Monkey Tower thread, but I am not sure what you came up with in the end. (How) did you adjust the impedance compensation of the woofer accodringly (Lw4 and Cw3 in the xover schematic)?
planet IX, is that a metallic screw to hold the small inductor in the woofer filter (and maybe others)? If so, make sure the screw(s) are non-magnetic! I prefer plastic screws/parts for this.
All parts are fixed with plastic-screws and and zip-ties, so no metal anywhere in the xover.
FYI: I got 2 pcs. 50*100*5cm and 4 pcs. 50*100*3cm for a total of €106 at a local music shop. Shipping to the US is €45.
https://www.musicstore.com/en_OE/EU...e-Acoustic-Foam-30mm-Grey-/art-REC0008327-000
https://www.musicstore.com/en_OE/EU...e-Acoustic-Foam-50mm-Grey-/art-REC0008322-000
I did not check all the part values, but the connections look fine. You'll still need to connect all the "minus" ends. Also, one of the labels says "T+" where it should be "Mid+", but I believe that's pretty obvious. Looking good!
Earl,
I'll let Matthias be the ultimate voice with this answer but knowing what I know I don't see how. The first 40+ pages of this thread goes through all the development of the speaker. It's all engineered. The box, the drivers, the crossovers. Also, as an FYI, I spent way more than the budget. Ever time I turned around, I was buying something. Nuts,bolts, clamps, foam, paint, clear coat wire, binding posts... This is DIY. Also, my nature is to get as good a sound out of the speakers as possible. I don't want to sound negative but I am not good enough to do this stuff on a fixed budget. And, some times I make mistakes. That always costs more.
Good luck.
I can hardly wait to turn mine on. I'm hoping this weekend.
Regards,
Don
I'll let Matthias be the ultimate voice with this answer but knowing what I know I don't see how. The first 40+ pages of this thread goes through all the development of the speaker. It's all engineered. The box, the drivers, the crossovers. Also, as an FYI, I spent way more than the budget. Ever time I turned around, I was buying something. Nuts,bolts, clamps, foam, paint, clear coat wire, binding posts... This is DIY. Also, my nature is to get as good a sound out of the speakers as possible. I don't want to sound negative but I am not good enough to do this stuff on a fixed budget. And, some times I make mistakes. That always costs more.
Good luck.
I can hardly wait to turn mine on. I'm hoping this weekend.
Regards,
Don
Yes, and not with anything else either, so also not with speaker building. Thank you for the suggestions. I will persevere and build this. From the ground up!
It might take longer than I plan, and there may be silly questions on this thread, but I like the objectives of the design and the process. I will stick to the original drivers and units.F Clamps are expensive, so I've decided to make those myself. Nice videos on the usual Tube channel online.
I have an initial set of questions that I'd like to ask.
1. Is it ok? if I use one type of wood, rather than the sandwich version, I might not be able to craft this(the sandwich) so well. I've seen MDF around shops quite a bit but walnut looks good. Are there any suggestions on whether this should be a darker colour than the laminate, maybe I will take inputs from the other half, it's going in her living room after all.
2. Where does the XO go in the OSMC? I think I missed the memo!
Thanks,
Earl
Yes, shure. The sandwich is just nice to have. Oh, and making a sandwich is easy... just build the box using thinner material, and glue some layer(s) to the inside of the box. Easy!
Anywhere. Can be external or inside the speaker box. Many people like to make a separate box for the xovers. Technically it makes sense to keep the xover outside the speaker to avoid the vibrations of the box acting on the xover parts.
Thanks mbrennwa, I think the idea of sandwich is very helpful.
One last question for today, Is the volume in litres given by the standard formula L x B x H minus the area used for braces anything else? And there have been references to software in this thread, which of these are helpful in the journey?
Best,
Earl
One last question for today, Is the volume in litres given by the standard formula L x B x H minus the area used for braces anything else? And there have been references to software in this thread, which of these are helpful in the journey?
Best,
Earl
Uhm, yes... did you have something else in mind?
Not sure what you mean by this. We used all kinds of different software tools for different tasks during the design of the OSMC. You don't need any of these to build your OSMC. Just follow the instructions in the OSMC Paper, and ask questions here if something is not clear in the paper.
Ha. Ha. Not at all. I seem to have a faint recollection that I had calculated the volume many moons ago for a cabinet that I was to build, and got a different result. Now, when I read this thread I realised I missed the calculation of the braces.
Thank you for the encouragement. I will soldier on.
Earl
Earl and Planet IX,
I'll chime in here. It's good to have some "foam" type of backing on all driver mounts. Take it into consideration.
I undercut the countersink on my VM752 since I felt it needed to be mounted "firmly" to carry the weight/screw. It will countersink some just from the torque. If you have any material left over you can experiment.
Also, you might consider connecting the speaker wires on the 752 before mounting. The faston connectors were not easily accessible on mine.
Don
I'll chime in here. It's good to have some "foam" type of backing on all driver mounts. Take it into consideration.
I undercut the countersink on my VM752 since I felt it needed to be mounted "firmly" to carry the weight/screw. It will countersink some just from the torque. If you have any material left over you can experiment.
Also, you might consider connecting the speaker wires on the 752 before mounting. The faston connectors were not easily accessible on mine.
Don