Beginners help with OB speakers

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
New here and new on speaker builds!

If anyone cares to help out I could need it. Looking to build a pair of OB speakers inspired by PureAudioProjects (I'm getting their woofers).

Looking to use Hypex FusionAmp plate ams with integrated DSP.
Is 250W too much for the woofers? Is 125W more than enough perhaps?

What do I need to get a great system? Prefer bluetooth aptx (and hd).
What's missing?
(How) Can I use the Uniti Atom as a source and connect to the amps?

Thanks for your patience and any help appreciated!

OB.jpg
 
Plate amps don't have tubes, which might suffer from bass waves - so don't worry!

125 vs. 250W is a small difference. 125W should be enough, but amplifiers are in any case the easiest part of the system and easy to change if necessary. I have ICEpower 125W and 50W amps in my system. An open baffle driver usually is Xmax limited, because it needs lots of eq and there is no backside pressure to conquer.
 
Thanks for this Juhazi!

Noted on plate amps.

If 125w "should" be enough I want to be confident not to miss anything and go with 250w (twice the power??). Also prefer not to have to upgrade too soon.

What drivers do you have running on 125 and 50w (interested to hear if it's also OB).

Plate amps don't have tubes, which might suffer from bass waves - so don't worry!

125 vs. 250W is a small difference. 125W should be enough, but amplifiers are in any case the easiest part of the system and easy to change if necessary. I have ICEpower 125W and 50W amps in my system. An open baffle driver usually is Xmax limited, because it needs lots of eq and there is no backside pressure to conquer.
 
Twice the power is only 3dB more in sound pressure level (SPL) - just noticable. The scale is logaritmic! Double amplifier power does not double the volume - Geoff the Grey Geek

Typical number of watts needed for home listening is .5 - 5W per channel in stereo. Open baffle speakers have low efficiency and they need more power than boxed speakers, because of dipole losses below so called baffle step treshold. However when the driver is in free air, it reaches it's mechanical excursion (Xmax) with surprisingly low wattage. Most of sound energy (spl) in music appears at 50-300Hz range, where dipoles are suffering.

These problems are often fighted against with very large and efficient (pro) bass drivers (12-15") I decided to use just one 10" subwoofer in a closed box for frequencies below 200Hz. My 125W rated ICEpower module can easily drive it to Xmax before my dipole units start suffering. That happens around 105dB at 1m (single speaker) and I never listen to music that loud! Click my signature to find more info!
 
Had a quick look at your Aino build. Being a complete beginner I just hope I don't end up with a 60 page thread on my build haha. That's also why I'm trying to copy a "simple" design.

I was recommended 250w by Ze'ev at PAP. Maybe overkill but I'd rather be on the safe side than sorry. Also it's "only" 2x100€ difference.
 
What are the pros and cons of making the baffle+stand in metal, as opposed to having metal stand and wooden baffles?

Metal
L-shaped baffle with wings
Small wings at the bottom of side wings, which can be fastened in the bottom plate.

Attached flat drawing, black lines indicate where to bend.
Attached inspo

Why not metal only?
What metal if no sonic disadvantage? Necessary thickness?

pap skiss.jpg
pap skiss2.jpg
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.