Questions about speaker building

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If you want to go down the Eminence route then take a look at the Eminence APT-80 and APT-150 tweeters from Parts Express.

I don't have a picture immediately to hand but you could draw a rectangle to represent the desired shape of your speaker front baffle and, using a pair of compasses, experiment with different diameter circles to represent the drivers. That way you can judge what gives the best visual balance.
 
While on Parts Express, take a look at PXB3:3K5 3-way speaker crossover board 500/3,500Hz.

This is exactly what is required to match your three chosen Eminence drivers.

The woofers will operate below 500Hz, the midrange from 500Hz to 3,500Hz and the horn tweeter above 3,500Hz.

P.S. All the information you need appears to be supplied for you by Parts Express!

And yes, you can now start designing the boxes - prior to actually building them of course!
 
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i am guessing that...
M = woofers
W = mids
T = tweeters?
and howcome this one is way more expensive?

I mean that this post does not make sense!

And yes, you can start building the boxes, but not before you have designed them.

The boxes must be designed to suit the Thiele/Small parameters given by Part Express.

This is where the loudspeaker design experts need to step in - I'm not such an expert!
 
M = Mid; W = Woofer; T = Tweeter

It's expensive because the components (capacitors and inductors) are highly rated and capable of handling the very high power that the speaker drivers are capable of delivering.

They are unlikely to burst into flames or damage the drivers like a badly designed DIY crossover could.
 
For the Woofers:

Sealed Volume - 0.9ft cubed
Sealed f3 - 109 Hz
Vented Volume - 2.8ft cubed
Vented f3 - 59 Hz

If I am going with vented design then are those the minimum or maximum requirements?
Also how should I go about doing it with the mids because the only thing I'm able to control with that cabinet size is the height
 
The Eminence cabinet design for the woofer is no help to us as you want to have two woofers.

This requires a larger cabinet and different vents so we need expert help.

The mid will have a box put around it to separate it from the main woofer enclosure. This mid enclosure could be sealed or have its own vent to the outside air. Again, help is required with the design.

The further we climb, the steeper the gradient becomes!
 
How it matters is how I word my suggestion. The lowest note on a bass guitar is 42Hz. The F3 of you plan is ruffly 2.5 octaves higher. F3 is when you woofer's output is at 1/2 the rest of the music. If the woofer continues to roll off at this rate the lower bass notes will be almost inaudible and that is for bass guitar, many sounds get lower. You wanting a large mid-range because it looks cool is a mind set that will not last. Beaming is when the size of the driver limits it's ability to spread the sound in a wide path. A large mid can work if you have enough room. Like a concert hall where the sound has time to spread. In you 17' room only one small place will sound good. You could be standing in the sweet spot telling your friends how great your home built speakers are and they can be just two feet away thinking they can't hear the voices.
 
The lowest note on a bass guitar is 42Hz. The F3 of you plan is ruffly 2.5 octaves higher. F3 is when you woofer's output is at 1/2 the rest of the music. If the woofer continues to roll off at this rate the lower bass notes will be almost inaudible.


What Borus really means is that we need a bigger box!


But he has taken the sealed f3 of 109Hz in his quote. It is worth noting that the preferred vented f3 is 59Hz which is not 2.5 octaves higher than 42Hz.
 
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Currently my 8" studio monitors play fine around the room, the only thing that changes is the low bass volume.
I wouldn't think a 2" difference would do much but If you say it does I can get the same model as an 8"

I'm also not a little kid buying drivers according to their look, I thought with big woofers I should have mids that match the volume
 
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