Depending where you cross the mids to the woofer, mids probably need som baffel step compensation.
I still think you should think twice and deep about investing in such expensive tweeters. I think you are on the very right track with your woofers and the midwoofers. Only equivalent for the mids right know I think is SS or Audiotechnology. Both more expensive. Which ones is better is a matter of taste and matching of drivers. That is what I think.
For a first timer into DIY, many stupid mistaskes can happen. Sticking a screwdriver into the membrane. Dropping them and so on. Not saying this is going to happen though.
You could also buy the much "cheaper" ring dome from SB:
SATORI TW29RN-B :: SB Acoustics
Troels Gravesen really seem to like both. In the end a matter of taste.
And then I think you should also consider the Alu dome from SB, that other have mentioned in the thread. I have heard it, and I think it sounds very good! Clean and very very nice presentation of symbals. Dont put all you horsens into which one that measures best. The all measure VERY good so in the end a matter of taste.
Not to forget - Crossover is the most difficult part. The same drivers in a cabinet with two different crossovers can sound miles apart. A well thought/made crossover with cheaper but well performing drivers will ALWAYS beat a bad made crossover with the most exotic drivers in the world. I think you will get better results with an all digital crossover. Because is is much easy to work with as a beginner. And cheaper. But if you like to learn how to make a passive crossover go a head. You should just know that it is indeed difficult though it may sound to be not so.
For a first timer into DIY, many stupid mistaskes can happen. Sticking a screwdriver into the membrane. Dropping them and so on. Not saying this is going to happen though.
You could also buy the much "cheaper" ring dome from SB:
SATORI TW29RN-B :: SB Acoustics
Troels Gravesen really seem to like both. In the end a matter of taste.
And then I think you should also consider the Alu dome from SB, that other have mentioned in the thread. I have heard it, and I think it sounds very good! Clean and very very nice presentation of symbals. Dont put all you horsens into which one that measures best. The all measure VERY good so in the end a matter of taste.
Not to forget - Crossover is the most difficult part. The same drivers in a cabinet with two different crossovers can sound miles apart. A well thought/made crossover with cheaper but well performing drivers will ALWAYS beat a bad made crossover with the most exotic drivers in the world. I think you will get better results with an all digital crossover. Because is is much easy to work with as a beginner. And cheaper. But if you like to learn how to make a passive crossover go a head. You should just know that it is indeed difficult though it may sound to be not so.
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Dropping things and not knowing how to use a screwdriver is not a case of handling speakers for the first time but just not being handy in building things at all, but I'm quite handy when it comes to that and the risk of damaging drivers is something I don't even consider, at all. I'm familiar with tools and am quite a builder anyway.
I have heard beryllium tweeters before at Chattelin with Magico speakers and I like them so a tweeter that suits my taste and is one of the best performers in the world will be the best choice I think.
And thanks for the tip of the TW29BN-B-8. Didn't think about that one before. It's a no-brainer to take that one because of the better sensitivity match.
I was planning on using active crossovers earlier in this crossover but already moved away from it. I supposedly have building the passive crossovers covered because one of you offered to build it with me which I really, really appreciate and I really count on you
.
I have heard beryllium tweeters before at Chattelin with Magico speakers and I like them so a tweeter that suits my taste and is one of the best performers in the world will be the best choice I think.
And thanks for the tip of the TW29BN-B-8. Didn't think about that one before. It's a no-brainer to take that one because of the better sensitivity match.
I was planning on using active crossovers earlier in this crossover but already moved away from it. I supposedly have building the passive crossovers covered because one of you offered to build it with me which I really, really appreciate and I really count on you
.
I know it will need baffle step compensation. I said "away from baffle step compensation" it won't need much adjustments because the response is so flat. I'm planning to cross between the woofers and mid between 200 and 300 Hz.
Thanks for your advice, if I still were to take one of those small-faceplate Scan-Speak tweeters I would indeed have taken the dome but I've already decided to take the SB-Acoustics TW29BN-B-8.
Very arrogant and/or naive. I think both. You are still a young boy and have a lot to learn. Add a couple of thousands of working hours and you will realize the times you were lucky and the times you were not, but made a mistake.
I think a lot more people would give their opinions in this thread if you started acting more polite.
I'm sorry. I don't mean it to be a dique but I really do a lot of diy-ing and just am quite handy. Might be naive but I don't expect anything to go wrong. I really appreciate your help and really need it
Cool
Back on track then ! That is a nice skill! - Some that most these days dont have. And you know what, in the future most women really appreciate a man who can do handy things ! - Even if it "just" is hanging a picture on a wall.
I cannot give you advise in regards to which of the tweeters you should pick.
But I really think you should play with some prototypes before final sketch of the speaker. It is very easy to play with tweeter placement. And it makes a HUGE difference.
I don't want to buy a kit as I said before as well. It takes away all of the fun. Then I could better just buy a pair of Scansonic MB-1's or Sonus Faber Venere 2.0's or Monitor Audio Gold 100's. I want to make it my own. And I've already come this far.
I know what beryllium sounds like and I like it. I heard the beryllium tweeters of the Magico S3 Mk II's at Chattellin.
I know what beryllium sounds like and I like it. I heard the beryllium tweeters of the Magico S3 Mk II's at Chattellin.
The "normal" has higher sensitivity because it's a nominal 4 Ohm driver, which takes more power than a 8 Ohm driver at the same Voltage (i.e. 2W vs. 1W @2.83V). You will dissipate more power in padding and/or series resistors if going with 4 Ohm. But, just in case you are going to use a more sensitive mid one day, you will have more flexibility going with the "normal" (whatever that should mean) 4 Ohm variety. These tweeters are so expensive, you better keep them for a decade or so.
Btw, given you are asking these questions, what are your plans about the crossover, how will you develop it? It is a more difficult task than chosing drivers...and much more important. It won't be easy not to make your 4 digit driver selection sound worse than one wisely chosen and crossed over competently costing less than $500 for two speakers.
When these speakers are done I'm not planning to rebuild it anytime soon and I'm so doing my best at choosing the best possible drivers because I'm these speakers are supposed to be extremely good and last a while so I won't have to build anything better than this anytime soon so now I'm just looking for the best possible match for this project.
I don't at all know how I'm going to make the crossovers yet which is why I rely so heavily on you guys. I have no idea how crossovers work yet.
I don't at all know how I'm going to make the crossovers yet which is why I rely so heavily on you guys. I have no idea how crossovers work yet.
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Goeie morgen!
Als ik jou was zou ik niet voor de neodymium versie van de beryllium tweeter gaan, de versie met de ferriet magneet (TW29B-B) komt namelijk veel lager, en dat maakt het crossover werk een stuk makkelijker.
Daarnaast is de ferriet versie ook minder gevoelig, dus dat past weer beter bij je mid.
Ze zijn ook nog eens minder duur
Groeten, Jeroen
Als ik jou was zou ik niet voor de neodymium versie van de beryllium tweeter gaan, de versie met de ferriet magneet (TW29B-B) komt namelijk veel lager, en dat maakt het crossover werk een stuk makkelijker.
Daarnaast is de ferriet versie ook minder gevoelig, dus dat past weer beter bij je mid.
Ze zijn ook nog eens minder duur
Groeten, Jeroen
I agree with Rokytheman.
Great that you recieved critique positively
But I still think you are chasing the perfect in a time of your life, where there is so much to learn. Do realise that many cheap drivers will sound realy great, when used wisely.
I ones believed - like you - that I could just jump directly to a finished construction and that by thinking hard enough, I would avoid all errors. Oh - I was in for a learning experience, believe me
Today I have speakes that are great, but slowly I discover what I did wrong in the beginning.
Do understand, that I cant stop you using a lot of money on expensive drivers in your quest for perfection. I'm simply trying to inform you, that you are better of with some more experience, before you invest in something - maybe blinded - by fanzy numbers and specs.
I do not write this to be annoying or arrogant - I just have to agree with the people who tried to warn me, when I was like you
And it's fine if you want to "break" the likelyhood of statistics - but when you have no knowledge in the area of x-overs - then you still have a lot of work to do. The seas driver is fine as long as you take care of the break-up of the cone. Maybe the SB ADC26. This is a great driver, that can also be used with a waveguide, so that x-over will be even better - the same with dispersion, which is very important for the way we percieve sound.
Great that you recieved critique positively
But I still think you are chasing the perfect in a time of your life, where there is so much to learn. Do realise that many cheap drivers will sound realy great, when used wisely.
I ones believed - like you - that I could just jump directly to a finished construction and that by thinking hard enough, I would avoid all errors. Oh - I was in for a learning experience, believe me
Today I have speakes that are great, but slowly I discover what I did wrong in the beginning.
Do understand, that I cant stop you using a lot of money on expensive drivers in your quest for perfection. I'm simply trying to inform you, that you are better of with some more experience, before you invest in something - maybe blinded - by fanzy numbers and specs.
I do not write this to be annoying or arrogant - I just have to agree with the people who tried to warn me, when I was like you
And it's fine if you want to "break" the likelyhood of statistics - but when you have no knowledge in the area of x-overs - then you still have a lot of work to do. The seas driver is fine as long as you take care of the break-up of the cone. Maybe the SB ADC26. This is a great driver, that can also be used with a waveguide, so that x-over will be even better - the same with dispersion, which is very important for the way we percieve sound.
How about handing the crossover part to the man behind humblehomemadeaudio.com. He seems like a true master in regards to crossovers.
I think it takes years of practice to make a good passive crossover. One must at least be able to make several different iterations. Go back and forth between them. It may take much longer than the actual build of the cabinet. I think it is impossible to actually understand how complicated it is before having played with it. If the crossover is not nailed, the sound will be no more than mediocre. Better to buy secondhand.
I totally agree with you digitalthor. Perfection may come one day. But not without practice. That said, the drivers you for now are aiming at, is IMO some of the best out there right now. But without loads of practice, they will not show their full potential.
Just tuning a basreflex is something that takes a lot of practice.
I think it takes years of practice to make a good passive crossover. One must at least be able to make several different iterations. Go back and forth between them. It may take much longer than the actual build of the cabinet. I think it is impossible to actually understand how complicated it is before having played with it. If the crossover is not nailed, the sound will be no more than mediocre. Better to buy secondhand.
I totally agree with you digitalthor. Perfection may come one day. But not without practice. That said, the drivers you for now are aiming at, is IMO some of the best out there right now. But without loads of practice, they will not show their full potential.
Just tuning a basreflex is something that takes a lot of practice.
@3Wayaddict.
You could also settle for less expensive drivers - for now. And then invest in an active solution and some simple measuring equipment. This will teach you alot about how everything works and you could quickly get first hand experience with the result of different filters and the sum of the drivers response. Secondly - it will quickly cost you lots of money to invest in many different passive components, so an active solution is getting better in many aspects ;o)
You could also settle for less expensive drivers - for now. And then invest in an active solution and some simple measuring equipment. This will teach you alot about how everything works and you could quickly get first hand experience with the result of different filters and the sum of the drivers response. Secondly - it will quickly cost you lots of money to invest in many different passive components, so an active solution is getting better in many aspects ;o)
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