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Ahh, thanks for that.
Internet info says that the top firing and front facing bass/mid drivers are one & the same driver.
If that's correct, then ( if mine ) I'd measure one of these existing drivers to get its' TS Parameters.
With those parameters in hand one could look for the closest match.
Maybe Castle would give out the TS parameters ( or suggest a replacement ) if you contacted them and explained your situation ( considering that apparently the drivers were made in-house and are no longer available > or < so says the internet ).
Internet info says that the top firing and front facing bass/mid drivers are one & the same driver.
If that's correct, then ( if mine ) I'd measure one of these existing drivers to get its' TS Parameters.
With those parameters in hand one could look for the closest match.
Maybe Castle would give out the TS parameters ( or suggest a replacement ) if you contacted them and explained your situation ( considering that apparently the drivers were made in-house and are no longer available > or < so says the internet ).
So I've had the other drivers out. The top mounted drivers (06-55) are practically mint, as are the tweeters (08-19)! Why the other two 06-55s were removed from these I have no idea. I have sourced the last (06-55) available from the awesome gent who I believe used to work for Castle as still has some spares, but I think it's looking unlikely that I'll be able to find another 06-55 anywhere, unless someone somewhere on this forum has an utterly destroyed pair of Harlechs that they don't mind parting ways with a driver....
Good advice from EarlK there IMO.
People agonise over replacement drivers. Truth is they are all much the same. Seen one 5", you've pretty much seen them all.
Will it fit without too much woodwork? Looks like it might.
Monacor SPH-135C Size 133x133mm
Seems the Monacor SPH-135C is a reflex driver at Qts 0.39, so should work in a quarter wave line or reflex.
Using the Castle originals front facing seems like a plan. The top firing ones should not be too critical. Can't say if this is a two way TMM in effect, or a 2.5. You'd need to dissect the crossover to know that, and also to know what level adjustments are appropriate or possible.
People agonise over replacement drivers. Truth is they are all much the same. Seen one 5", you've pretty much seen them all.
Will it fit without too much woodwork? Looks like it might.
Monacor SPH-135C Size 133x133mm
Seems the Monacor SPH-135C is a reflex driver at Qts 0.39, so should work in a quarter wave line or reflex.
Using the Castle originals front facing seems like a plan. The top firing ones should not be too critical. Can't say if this is a two way TMM in effect, or a 2.5. You'd need to dissect the crossover to know that, and also to know what level adjustments are appropriate or possible.
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People agonise over replacement drivers. Truth is they are all much the same. Seen one 5", you've pretty much seen them all.
Nonesense.
Zaph|Audio
Chris
Castle Harlech replacement crossover and drivers
Hi Guys
Castle harlechs seem to be a pain ,i have a pair i wish to restore i have monacor sph 135 c drivers and will replace the vifa tweeter with a seas 27dfc as it crosses over at a low point 1800hz ,lroblem is can anyone help with the crossover section for the midbass? castle have listed the spec as 8 ohms that would mean the original woofers would be 16 ohms as they are wired in parallel configuration ,this wold mean i would have to change the values of the crossover to accommodate the monacor drivers at 4 ohms in parallel any suggestions would be welcome
Hi Guys
Castle harlechs seem to be a pain ,i have a pair i wish to restore i have monacor sph 135 c drivers and will replace the vifa tweeter with a seas 27dfc as it crosses over at a low point 1800hz ,lroblem is can anyone help with the crossover section for the midbass? castle have listed the spec as 8 ohms that would mean the original woofers would be 16 ohms as they are wired in parallel configuration ,this wold mean i would have to change the values of the crossover to accommodate the monacor drivers at 4 ohms in parallel any suggestions would be welcome
You'll need to map out the original crossover before anyone can help you out.
Pull a network and follow the signal flow while writing down what connects to what.
As Steve has said, it's unknown whether or not the design is a 2.5 design or a straight 2.0 design.
Hi Earlk
Thanks for the reply
it is a 2 way design on the harlechs ,if i am not mistaken the Howards at least the 1 model was a 2.5 way ....i have the crossovers out and the 2nd order mid bass has a 10 uf cap and im sure a 1.50mh inductor though i cannot be sure ...it also has a 7 watt 1ohm resister in line with the or parallel to the 10 uf capacitor
Thanks for the reply
it is a 2 way design on the harlechs ,if i am not mistaken the Howards at least the 1 model was a 2.5 way ....i have the crossovers out and the 2nd order mid bass has a 10 uf cap and im sure a 1.50mh inductor though i cannot be sure ...it also has a 7 watt 1ohm resister in line with the or parallel to the 10 uf capacitor
The crossover (seen in the pic that I uploaded ) won't work with the Monacor Mid-Woofs & SEAS tweeter.
For the drivers just mentioned, you'll need an entirely new network.
The SEAS tweeter ( being @ 4 ohms ) & the 2x 8 ohm midwoofers are going to give you a load of @ 4 ohms ( once a network is designed ).
Since the original speaker ( is stated as an 8 ohm load ) it's easy money that the current network will not be of much use ( perhaps a part here + there might be salvaged ).
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