best 18” drivers that can go flat 20Hz

Indeed the thread is going on for a while,but one of the main aims of this site is to share and benefit the knowledge of other members in order to save money and mistakes to others and that is what I'm doing .Also for a final conclusion
to be drawn,there is a need for a conclusive reply as to which subwoofer gains a better performance down to 20Hz-100-200Hz with pure clean sound and tight bass without distortion through all it's frequency range in a relatively "smallish" sealed enclsure -2 units of 12' driver per side or 1 unit of 18' driver per side !
 
Indeed the thread is going on for a while,but one of the main aims of this site is to share and benefit the knowledge of other members in order to save money and mistakes to others and that is what I'm doing .Also for a final conclusion
to be drawn,there is a need for a conclusive reply as to which subwoofer gains a better performance down to 20Hz-100-200Hz with pure clean sound and tight bass without distortion through all it's frequency range in a relatively "smallish" sealed enclsure -2 units of 12' driver per side or 1 unit of 18' driver per side !

I have not participated in this thread, but have benefited greatly from reading. Do please carry on!

tapestryofsound
 
Indeed the thread is going on for a while,but one of the main aims of this site is to share and benefit the knowledge of other members in order to save money and mistakes to others and that is what I'm doing .Also for a final conclusion
to be drawn,there is a need for a conclusive reply as to which subwoofer gains a better performance down to 20Hz-100-200Hz with pure clean sound and tight bass without distortion through all it's frequency range in a relatively "smallish" sealed enclsure -2 units of 12' driver per side or 1 unit of 18' driver per side !

The key point, though, is that for "pure, clean sound and tight bass" down to 20Hz in most rooms, you do NOT want the woofer to be "flat to 20Hz" in anechoic conditions.
Instead, you want it to have a -3dB frequency of around 40Hz, and from there a shallow -12dB/oct roll-off down to 20Hz and below, to complement the natural "room gain" effect given by the progressive pressurization of the room.

An anechoic response that is flat down to 20Hz will, on the contrary, result in a relatively boomy and overbearing first octave (on the relatively few music tracks that actually have any information down that low). But, you may still prefer it that way. To each their own.
 
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The key point, though, is that for "pure, clean sound and tight bass" down to 20Hz in most rooms, you do NOT want the woofer to be "flat to 20Hz" in anechoic conditions.
Instead, you want it to have a -3dB frequency of around 40Hz, and from there a shallow -12dB/oct roll-off down to 20Hz and below, to complement the natural "room gain" effect given by the progressive pressurization of the room.

An anechoic response that is flat down to 20Hz will, on the contrary, result in a relatively boomy and overbearing first octave (on the relatively few music tracks that actually have any information down that low). But, you may still prefer it that way. To each their own.

I wouldn't rely on this in the design stage. Room gain is quite unpredictable, depending on the room construction, size, speaker placement etc. And there isn't any formula to it, too. It's trial and error; mostly error. For example, my room is 16 sq. meters (around 177 sq. ft), all-concrete - I should get great room gain, right? Wrong, at my speaker placement along the long wall there is no room gain to speak of.

It certainly is not 12db/oct, that's the theoretical maximum for a hermetically sealed chamber. You'll more likely to get 6 to 8 db/oct if you're lucky, or maybe 3 to 6 db shelf.

Design your subs for pure 2pi environment and add EQ for real world use.
 
On a side note, I don't have any complaints using multiple small woofers to go down low.
My room is 14*10*6m and the room gain peaks around 13Hz.
I build it for watching movies but to be honest, it is overkill for all other applications. Also, if I'd ever want the tactile feedback below 20Hz, I'd choose a buttkicker over any subwoofer.
 
When I built a dedicated subwoofer years ago, the single overall best driver I found (57mm Xmax peak-to-peak excursion / 21 inch cone area / 6 inch voice coil, high power / sensitivity, managable weight 22kg drive unit for portable PA use, etc.) was Precision Devices PD2151 Neodymium 21 inch, so I bought two of them, and built myself a pair of subs. My cabinets are only 45kg each on castors, and fit through a single domestic doorway, and both can fit into estate car boot with seats folded down, etc. That was 20 years ago. To this day I've never seen anything better (without being much heavier / bigger) or ever felt I needed any upgrade. Each has no problem getting to 20Hz or 15Hz or 10Hz... depends on system's active EQ curves.
Precision Devices have discontinued that specific model now, but still have similar 21 inch and 24 inch models today, and spoilt for choice with 18 inch drivers.

When I built a high-output portable 3-way with 15 inch woofer, the best overall bass driver I found was Faital Pro 15XL1400.
I made huge database of all suitable 12 inch and 15 inch woofers Thiele / Small parameters, to run their specs through a computer simulation inside a fixed hypothetical 100 litre cabinet volume vented at 20Hz, and compared all their graphs, and the Faital Pro 15XL1400 was the winner for most low frequency output in that restricted cabinet volume. Close 2nd place was BMS 15N850V2.
With FIR correction it's flat to 14Hz in my current 3-way cabinet with 18 Sound 8NMA610 midrange and Beyma TPL150H tweeter, and each cab weighs only 37kg.

I haven't thoroughly researched 18 inch size for myself, because I've never needed one - 18 inch is too big (slow transients) for a 3-way bass and too small for a proper subwoofer IMHO - although maybe ideal bass in a 4-way design - so I'd recommend a good place to start researching would be the equivalent 18 inch versions of those models...

FaitalPRO | LF Loudspeakers
Faital Pro 18XL2000 (18 inch)
Faital Pro 18XL1800 (18 inch)

Precision Devices™ Product Range
Precision Devices PD.185N02
Precision Devices PDN.1852

BMS Neodymium Cone Drivers
BMS 18N862
BMS 18N850V2

Also 18 Sound and Beyma and JBL make some very nice pro woofers too.
Like other people have said, you need cone area(!) and large linear Xmax(!) combined with massive voice coil power handling.
Manufacturer's sensitivity spec "99dBSPL/watt" or whatever is usually measured at the highest peak on their graph, or at 1kHz so doesn't tell you much about how it will perform in low bass range. So don't be fooled comparing sens specs between subwoofers.
Also don't buy car audio boombox / SPL competition subwoofers if you're planning to use for seriuous hifi music listening- because they typically have very high moving mass so will just go boooooooooom.
Unless you're building a HUGE cabinet, most of these 18 inch woofers will show similar roll-off in a given cabinet size / vent freq, so you need a cabinet simulator program to get viewing graphs to see best performer before you buy, or build a test cabinet and buy the best half a dozen drivers to try and test / send back what you don't keep, but you'll struggle to get honest accurate measurments in a domestic room at low bass freqs.
If you really care about 20Hz, also consider a 21 inch woofer not an 18 inch.

can we see some pics of your build and crossover/eq setup ?