I can't think of a more horrible and difficult combination, TBH. And totally unsuited to 20L closed box.
We do get some sickly stray cats wandering up to our door....
The guys are, of course, totally right that an 8" woofer can work spectacularly well here.
E0045-08S W22NY001
JA8008-HMQ
The main thing is to know a good 8" woofer when you see one. Troels remarks: "To my ears, this is the best speaker I've ever made."
DTQWT-mkII
Not much to the main section, if you regard the twin bass reinforcement as a bit of iceing on the cake. I like this sort of thing myself.
So, if I am reading your comment correctly you are saying the combination of a Scan Speak Illuminator D3004/66400 & Scan Speak Revelator 18W/8531G in a 20L sealed box would be "I can't think of a more horrible and difficult combination". If so, could I ask you why?
Thanks for your time.
Here was my answer, using the 4 Ohm version of that mid-woofer:
A Speaker Maker's Journey: SNR-1 : A Two Way High End DIY Monitor
2 way requires very good drivers but limited in woofer size in order to get a good blend in the crossover.
You will probably get better sound with a 3 way using relatively cheaper drivers.
If you insist on this way, the best one i can think of is the Bliesma 34mm tweeter with the Satori 7.5" woofer.
You will probably get better sound with a 3 way using relatively cheaper drivers.
If you insist on this way, the best one i can think of is the Bliesma 34mm tweeter with the Satori 7.5" woofer.
Based on discussions in other threads, Steve is opining from the published specs but is unwilling to consider input from those with recent practical experience. From the published FR they look like difficult speakers to match to a tweeter due to a step up the FR appears to take, but, as I mention elsewhere, the actual driver measures MUCH better, leading me to believe there was an engineering change which was not documented. See here:
AHA! - ScanSpeak mid-woofs do measure better!
As you can see there, I am not alone in my conclusion, the venerable Troels Graveson measured the same smooth FR that I did.
I hope that if Steve gets more recent practical experience with them he'll change his opinion.
I'm listening to those speakers I posted a link to right now, they sound nothing like what Steve expects. The ScanSpeak 18W/x531 series are wonderful drivers.
If you want any more proof, look at how simple my crossover is for the SNR-1. A complicated FR in the woofer would have demanded more parts.
That should settle it.Best,
Erik
Last edited:
Based on discussions in other threads, Steve is opining from the published specs but is unwilling to consider input from those with recent practical experience. From the published FR they look like difficult speakers to match to a tweeter due to a step up the FR appears to take, but, as I mention elsewhere, the actual driver measures MUCH better, leading me to believe there was an engineering change which was not documented. See here:
AHA! - ScanSpeak mid-woofs do measure better!
As you can see there, I am not alone in my conclusion, the venerable Troels Graveson measured the same smooth FR that I did.
I hope that if Steve gets more recent practical experience with them he'll change his opinion.
I'm listening to those speakers I posted a link to right now, they sound nothing like what Steve expects. The ScanSpeak 18W/x531 series are wonderful drivers.
If you want any more proof, look at how simple my crossover is for the SNR-1. A complicated FR in the woofer would have demanded more parts.
Best,
Erik
Erik,
Do you have a preferred tweeter to pair with the 8531? I am currently using the ZRT combo (6600), but am wondering out loud if there is another tweeter that might make the pair noticeably better.
Hi SJM!
IMHO: the issue comes down to how well matched do you want your dispersion to be, and therefore, how low a crossover point can you have.
In the SNR-1 design I shared earlier I used a medium to large Mundorf AMT, with gobs of power handling and crossed at 1.8kHz. It works super well, but It is a pretty expensive combination. It costs as much as the top of the line SS Be tweeter.
Other top options you should consider are the top Satori Be, as well as some AMTs from Beyma which I have not heard, but recent DIY members have measured the Satori and raved about it, and many here are Beyma AMT fans.
If you want to stay out of the stratosphere in part costs, the SB ring radiator SB29RDC-C000-4 is far more reasonable and well balanced in overall cost. I mean, if you think about it, the tweeters really produce very small amount of the music, but in expensive 2-ways we end up spending half or more of our cost there.
All of the SS Ring radiators have pretty narrow dispersion patterns so I don't normally recommend them or the Peerless look alike except for special uses.
IMHO: the issue comes down to how well matched do you want your dispersion to be, and therefore, how low a crossover point can you have.
In the SNR-1 design I shared earlier I used a medium to large Mundorf AMT, with gobs of power handling and crossed at 1.8kHz. It works super well, but It is a pretty expensive combination. It costs as much as the top of the line SS Be tweeter.
Other top options you should consider are the top Satori Be, as well as some AMTs from Beyma which I have not heard, but recent DIY members have measured the Satori and raved about it, and many here are Beyma AMT fans.
If you want to stay out of the stratosphere in part costs, the SB ring radiator SB29RDC-C000-4 is far more reasonable and well balanced in overall cost. I mean, if you think about it, the tweeters really produce very small amount of the music, but in expensive 2-ways we end up spending half or more of our cost there.
All of the SS Ring radiators have pretty narrow dispersion patterns so I don't normally recommend them or the Peerless look alike except for special uses.
Last edited:
See, Troels and I really are soul brothers. Here he is saying something very similar to my experience from his article on the Ekta:
I liked the write up on your SNR-1, I'm a bit apprehensive about trying an amt as I just have no experience with them.
I've heard good things about the new SB berrylium tweeter. Since I am a woodworker first and foremost and not a crossover guy would hope there would be a great design that I could take advantage of, especially considering all the good things I've heard about the SB berrylium.
Thanks for your help!
SJM,
The hardest thing about those was routing the baffle cut out. The top and bottom are only about 2 mm wide, making them painful to make an appropriate cut out!
AMT's vary greatly in quality, so don't get wowed necessarily by them. The best AMT's are among the best tweeters available, and the worst are among the worst.
I was first turned onto this line by the late SpeakerDoctor
who used them in his intimates, there's at least one discussion here:
Intimates newest update with Mundorf AMT tweeters - Techtalk Speaker Building, Audio, Video Discussion Forum
Best,
E
The hardest thing about those was routing the baffle cut out. The top and bottom are only about 2 mm wide, making them painful to make an appropriate cut out!
AMT's vary greatly in quality, so don't get wowed necessarily by them. The best AMT's are among the best tweeters available, and the worst are among the worst.
I was first turned onto this line by the late SpeakerDoctor
who used them in his intimates, there's at least one discussion here:Intimates newest update with Mundorf AMT tweeters - Techtalk Speaker Building, Audio, Video Discussion Forum
Best,
E
Last edited:
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.