Tannoy VX12 Box designs

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I have taken some pics of the driver although I wouldn't know if there are any clues as to the identity of the model. If anyone has any ideas on this, or potential cabinet designs I am all ears! Thanks
 

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In the face of all this I can only suggest to do what Tannoy did to all their best speakers*: Add woofers.

If it is not a 3142 it will have T/S parameter very much like it.
There is nothing you can reasonably do to get low bass out of it that would not eat up precious headroom and make it a lesser speaker IMO.

On the other hand you could end up with a very,very good speaker, accurate with all the dynamics your amps will allow and low distortion if you partner them with an 18, one or two 15s or a couple of 12s.


Or you could swap them for a couple of 3149s (LittleRed Monitor drivers) I have! :)



*S900, FSM, Buckingham Monitor, Dreadnaught, System 215DMT
 
In the face of all this I can only suggest to do what Tannoy did to all their best speakers*: Add woofers.

If it is not a 3142 it will have T/S parameter very much like it.
There is nothing you can reasonably do to get low bass out of it that would not eat up precious headroom and make it a lesser speaker IMO.

On the other hand you could end up with a very,very good speaker, accurate with all the dynamics your amps will allow and low distortion if you partner them with an 18, one or two 15s or a couple of 12s.


Or you could swap them for a couple of 3149s (LittleRed Monitor drivers) I have! :)



*S900, FSM, Buckingham Monitor, Dreadnaught, System 215DMT

Hi again. When you say partner with, do you mean use a separate subwoofer?

Thanks again
 
I can't see any advantages by using a back-loaded horn, only potential problems.

BLH increase bass in volume but not in extension as far as I am aware so you have a problem because they do nothing to the output above 300-400Hz. Since your DC has a flat output from in a ported or sealed cab you end up with the 70-300Hz region being relatively louder than the mids coming from the cone.
You either suck it up, adjust it in the crossover in which case you end up with all the complications of a 3way crossover without any of the benefits or you do what Tannoy chose when they did BLHs right: A stubby front loaded horn to bump up the mids.

A 3way with dedicated woofer(s) has the advantage of lowered intermodulation as it removes most of the excursion from the DC. This cleans up the mids and the treble audibly. The crossover should be relatively easy if you put it around 200Hz or so since the DC extends to well below that while any woofers will likely be flat to way above so you can go by the book because acoustic slope = electrical slope.


As for drivers there must be dozens if not hundreds which could successfully pressed into service. Which one represents the best compromise to YOU depends on how low you want to go, how loud, how much space you've got, what kind of look you prefer and as always the opinions of your better half and your bank manager.
 
Interesting, the current VX12 uses a modified(cheaper) tulip but yours do look very like a 3142. The current VX sits is a 35 L box tuned to 100hz, these tend to be mid to high Qts drivers and as far from Golds as you can get tbh. You need to measure them. Tannoy could well be protecting them in using small high Fb cabs so that isn't to say you cant drop them in 175L/40hz with reasonable results but without the T&S its **** of the pants stuff.Safest bet is as what Charlie says=3 way.
 
What do you expect to be different?

The VX12 has the same efficiency as the V12 therefore the driver is either the same or will have a very similar and high Fs in any case.

Going by Cooky's link you could have turned your driver into a 3134 with a recone but the cones are not available and it would have cost you as much or more than you've already paid.

Just be happy that you scored some nice drivers for not a lot of money and work with them rather than against them. :)
 
What do you expect to be different?

The VX12 has the same efficiency as the V12 therefore the driver is either the same or will have a very similar and high Fs in any case.

Going by Cooky's link you could have turned your driver into a 3134 with a recone but the cones are not available and it would have cost you as much or more than you've already paid.

Just be happy that you scored some nice drivers for not a lot of money and work with them rather than against them. :)
Hi. I see what Cooky was getting at now. Previously you mentioned adding a woofer, I could do that if I knew how to add an additional filter / crossover plus of course this and box dimensions would depend on which woofer was used. I value the continued input from yourself and others, so thank you.

Steve
 
he easiest way from a practical point of view would be to get a couple of subwoofer plate amps with adjustable xover frequency (they usually go up to 150-200Hz) and a filtered signal level output.
Upside is no extra amps, reduced stress on the amp driving the VX, no need to fiddle with crossovers at all.
Downside wiring them up will be messy since you have to run signal to the plate amps, from there to your power amp wherever that might be in your room and speaker cables back to your speakers. Depending on what gear you have already it may not be the most economical solution.

Next simplest way would be to get some 2 or 3way Hypex Fusion modules. With a 2way you must retain the VX crossover. Wiring would be a lot neater in your room.

Or you could just use a passive low pass before the VX crossover, I think that should work but I'm not an experst on passive crossover design. Downside is that it is inflexible and you may have to adjust relative volume with L pads.
 
he easiest way from a practical point of view would be to get a couple of subwoofer plate amps with adjustable xover frequency (they usually go up to 150-200Hz) and a filtered signal level output.
Upside is no extra amps, reduced stress on the amp driving the VX, no need to fiddle with crossovers at all.
Downside wiring them up will be messy since you have to run signal to the plate amps, from there to your power amp wherever that might be in your room and speaker cables back to your speakers. Depending on what gear you have already it may not be the most economical solution.

Next simplest way would be to get some 2 or 3way Hypex Fusion modules. With a 2way you must retain the VX crossover. Wiring would be a lot neater in your room.

Or you could just use a passive low pass before the VX crossover, I think that should work but I'm not an experst on passive crossover design. Downside is that it is inflexible and you may have to adjust relative volume with L pads.
Lots to think about there thank you! I would need to fashion a new cabinet containing both the vx12 and any additional woofer used, and I am not averse to doing this. I will checkout the hyped modules, I am guessing from what you have said that they include a crossover. Hmmm time to have a good look at the options, of which I have been to an very many but a pseudo Tannoy Kingdom sounds nice [emoji23]
 
Kingdoms?

I forgot about them but you are thinking along the right lines!

If Finances, Space & Spouse align for you some diy Kingdom 18 may well put a smile on your face in the future. :)

Should 18s be on the menu have a look at FaitalPro. They have a range of suitable one from £165 up to £340ea. Haven't used them myself but I've been more than happy with the Faitals I did use and they are generally well liked.

Those Hypex modules contain a DSP crossover and what probably are the best Class D amps available today. However do be aware that they rate their amps at 4Ω so you would probably looking at the 502 or 503.
 
Kingdoms?

I forgot about them but you are thinking along the right lines!

If Finances, Space & Spouse align for you some diy Kingdom 18 may well put a smile on your face in the future. :)

Should 18s be on the menu have a look at FaitalPro. They have a range of suitable one from £165 up to £340ea. Haven't used them myself but I've been more than happy with the Faitals I did use and they are generally well liked.

Those Hypex modules contain a DSP crossover and what probably are the best Class D amps available today. However do be aware that they rate their amps at 4Ω so you would probably looking at the 502 or 503.
Thanks you are a star. The finances are likely the only factor I need to worry about as I have mansions in the fire at the moment. Were I to do for something even similar to the kingdom or perhaps something with a more modest 12 or 15 inch woofer, how exactly would I go about designing an enclosure for both drivers?

Still there is the option of just a different cabinet also but I would like to weigh up all alternatives

Steve
 
If your mansion is on fire you should probably see to that first! :D

Typos aside it all depends on your priorities.
Do you care about the high efficiency of the VX or doesn't it matter at all?
How low do you want to go with regards to extension?

To design the box you need the T/S parameter of the driver the cab is for and a box calculator like WinISD.
That should give you the internal volume required and the port dimensions.
 
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If your mansion is on fire you should probably see to that first! :D

Typos aside it all depends on your priorities.
Do you care about the high efficiency of the VX or doesn't it matter at all?
How low do you want to go with regards to extension?
Haha mansion? If I would be using hypex with decent power then the sensitivity would become a moot point? I would like extension but not at the expense of a great mid and revealing treble. I am thinking another 12 each side would suffice, possible a 15 at a push. Also due to positioning the cabinets would need to be narrow in the front profile, and the room they will be in would be about 6 x5 m

Steve
 
You started with the mansions although I suspect you meant 'many irons'. :)

Active or not I would like to keep woofer and Tannoy within about 3dB of each other but that is just me and you are right it matters not that much in reality.
Low 40s is probably a realistic expectation with a 12" woofer, mid 30s for 15 and 30 for a 18.
However on another thread I learned of the existence of this driver:
HW321

Looks good on paper and cheap (about €100) it is however limited in linear travel (Xmax) and therefore max volume.


Would be good to find a long travel 4Ω driver as that would give you +3dB straight away.
 
You started with the mansions although I suspect you meant 'many irons'. :)

Active or not I would like to keep woofer and Tannoy within about 3dB of each other but that is just me and you are right it matters not that much in reality.
Low 40s is probably a realistic expectation with a 12" woofer, mid 30s for 15 and 30 for a 18.
However on another thread I learned of the existence of this driver:
HW321

Looks good on paper and cheap (about €100) it is however limited in linear travel (Xmax) and therefore max volume.


Would be good to find a long travel 4Ω driver as that would give you +3dB straight away.
Sorry I never noticed my spelling faux pas!
If the woofer can be mounted on the side of the cabinet then a 15 would be a possibility as I like to keep the front profile narrow, that is just my personal taste.

I will need to spend time researching the woofer and of course the total cost of all the materials

Steve
 
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