Looking for DIY Studio Speaker

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Hi guys,

I am looking for some informations on building my studio mixing and mastering monitors. I was listening to a lot of speakers the last months and liked some of the high end speaker but they are very expensive and I was missing something on every one. I know here are a lot of experienced people. I would like to know what brands you could recommend and what should I be aware of and so on...
Thank you very much.
Here is a picture I think the speaker could be like.
 

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Thank you Ugg. Active would be great but I also consider passive! DSP is not really needed, my room is acoustically treated and I have room correction hardware, but as always if DSP is integrated it will help for sure.

The Statments look good, but I am a little bit biased becuase of the small housing. Every speaker I heard so far, for example the Dynaudio lacked a little. bit in the lower frequencies. May be I am wrong on the Statments.
 
Must admit I woukd not have classed the statements as small at 60” x 12” x 17” and 100l enclosure with f3 of 33hz.

There are a load of potential ones on here for ideas Strassacker: Loudspeakerkits (DIY kits)

The Visaton Experience V20 looks interesting, diesn’t Go as deep but has what looks like a pretty flat response.

The audimax looks similar to the statement.
 
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thanks to everybody. the Humble Homemade looks really interesting. the strassacker site is a little bit stange, but I can not really say if there is good model?

I listened to ATC scm 150 asl pro, PMC MB2S-P, B&W 803 802 and 800 D3, Focal Scala Utopia.

The level really has to be very high, my room is treated by an acoustician and build by me. So there will not be a problem! :) I liked the focal a lot, better than the B&W (they were great too) but I wanted the Focal Meastro and they are really expensive and you need a very good amplification for them!
 
I recommend bying the electronics here. thomann. preamp, amps and digital crossover. The side of strassacker audio is good and they also sell high quality speaker units. And the picture of the speaker in post #1 is false. We can help you selecting the speaker units and constructing the cabinet.
 
Copying the mm3 drivers which are 15” paper subs, 7” ceramic mid and 5” aluminium ribbon tweeter. The following are the closest I can find, no idea how they will sound but someone on here may be able to model.

http://evolutionacoustics.com/evolution-acoustics2/specifications-for-group-brochure-4.pdf

Tweeter - fountek NeoPro5i http://loudspeakerfreaks.com/datasheets/fountek/neopro5i.pdf
Mid - accuton c173 series ceramic domes 6.5” http://loudspeakerfreaks.com/datasheets/accuton/C173-6-191E.pdf
Subs - possibly the sb acoustics SB42FHCL75 - http://loudspeakerfreaks.com/datasheets/sba/SB42FHCL75-6.pdf

These will set you back 1500+ Euros per speaker before you look at crossovers but a minidsp solution may work.
 
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If you wanted to go active there is two ways that I can think of.

1) use three minidsp 2x4 units, one running the 4 sub units and the other two running l/r mids and tweeter. miniDSP in a BOX : miniDSP 2x4. Thus will need a power amp per speaker driver so 5 stereo amps or ten monoblocks but you can mix and match the power, class or even solid state and tube to get the sound you want.

You could look into linking the sub and mids and turn it into a 3way with two minidsp 2x4 units but you would need to make sure your Amos can drive the two units together.

2) use plate amps in the rear of the speaker, something like the Hypex fusion amps, Hypex Electronics webshop, this will be less customisable than 1) but potentially cheaper

Or there is the traditional passive crossover which could be set up to tri amp (sub, mid, tweeter), but no idea of cost sorry. This would come as part of the overall box/driver/crossover design.

The mm3 could be simplified a bit by using similar volume rectangular boxes but keeping the stepped position and front face similar dimensions to help time align them.
 
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Ideally you would need to model the front baffle effects, particularly around the tweeter. The mm3 has the mid and tweeter out away from the body of the enclosure, it may not look as good but you could have these enclosures narrower than the sub so from the front it looks like a bow tie (ish), wide at the top, medium for the mid and narrow for the tweeter and so keep the front baffles small.

It is not impossible to make a curved enclosure like the mm3 using eithe MDF or thin plywood bent over formers and layered up (say 6 layers of 4mm plywood to make a 24mm thick enclosure), this is easier if the bend is in one plane obviously. The mm3 mid and tweeter could be simplified to look like the sub without the front protrusion.

With the dsp route or possibly in a passive crossover you can always have a flat front baffle and electrically/ electronically put a delay into the different channels. The Troels design use the stepped front time alignment if you google his designs.

But again, the best way is to choose a general design, the drivers and model the response and optimise the crossover to your taste and once built modify again to suit your room.
 
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