Sorry for double post.
I prefer speaker with midrange to handle the mids instead of midwoofer.
In that case the combination of Adelphos + 12" Sealed is not ideal again.
Maybe someone can share build plans for Satori 3-way based on:
1" Satori tweeter
5" Satori midrange
9.5" Satori woofers
It is almost beyond my total budget but if something with those drivers can be achieved I will go for it.
If not the Ekta MK II is my best option.
Thanks!
I prefer speaker with midrange to handle the mids instead of midwoofer.
In that case the combination of Adelphos + 12" Sealed is not ideal again.
Maybe someone can share build plans for Satori 3-way based on:
1" Satori tweeter
5" Satori midrange
9.5" Satori woofers
It is almost beyond my total budget but if something with those drivers can be achieved I will go for it.
If not the Ekta MK II is my best option.
Thanks!
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Don't forget that Kairos has 6dB baffle step compensation. It would be nice to remove most of that to gain back that lost sensitivity when active woofer relieves the low frequency burden from the midwoofer. The low sensitivity of Kairos is one of the few negatives.
If you haven't built your Kairos yet, you could use the new Satori midrange drivers instead of the Kairos midwoofer.
A pair of Satori 9" per side will match the sensitivity of the new mid and the old ferrite Satori tweeter to make about 90dB sensitivity speaker. One of my future dream projects.
A bit like this kit Essenza from Selah Audio?
Essenza — Selah Audio
I recently changed my tweeter to the satori so I have that exact speaker
. It's active though, lots of pics and measurements here: Achilles FIR 4-way
I recently changed my tweeter to the satori so I have that exact speaker
Achilles FIR 4-way
Final results looks awesome!
I'm total newbie in loudspeakers design & build, so for the first build I'm going with the Ekta MK II by Troels.
Satori Avalon using CAD tools
~3cuft ported woofer volume -F3 ~24Hz
--3" diameter port, 8.8" long, flared on both ends
---two "4-window" horizontal braces
---one top-to-bottom interlocking vertical brace
---absorption material
~0.15cuft sealed midrange(up to 0.25cuft is fine)
--wide at front baffle for air flow
--deep enough for easy rear air flow + brace to rear wall
--absorption material
Beveled front baffle = 3*0.75" thick
---bottom does not need bevels, except for "style"
Attachments
Thanks!
Looks GREAT.
I consulted with a friend about the the topic and his advice to build the Ekta MK II, the reasons are that I have great subwoofer, and probably I will have 2 subs in the near future, with that case the Ekta II design with midrange and midwoofer vs. the satori-avalon with midranage + woofer - at small room it can be too boomy, and even if not he thinks I would prefer 2midranges + sub VS mid + woofer + sub
I'm familiar with SS drivers.
First build.
On the other hand, the Satori-Avalon should be awesome!
What do you think?
About the Avalon design -
How do I know where to locate exactly the 4-window braces?
Can I place it where I want?
interlocking vertical brace - Does it mean bracing top-bottom with a step for the back wall?
Similar to Ekta MK II design? link
It can be use with the Satori TW-29B-B (beryllium dome tweeter with ferrite magnet)?
Any advice is more than welcome
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The rectangular cabinet volume is a standard, well braced box like Troels vertical beveled-baffle Ekta Grande, or stepped-baffle Ekta mk2. Use a 2"-2.2" thick (3*0.75") stacked baffle which allows deep top+side edge bevel cuts as used by Avalon, and the Hulgich Ella_mk2 example with dimensions H45” W13” D17”
Use the attached crossover schematic component values. I made a couple changes from earlier ckts to both smooth the baffle step compensation for a modest volume room, and to select common values for the large 5mH-7mH inductors from Erse / Sledgehammer. Metalized film capacitors like the 400V Audyn family can be used. The C1=140uF midrange capacitor in the schematic should be built from one 100uf cap and two 20uF capacitors in parallel, because you may favor C1=120uF for slightly less midbass gain if the speakers are near the wall. The C8=150uF woofer capacitor can be a low cost bennic-bipolar, or built from 2-3 metalized film capacitors like the 400V Audyn family if cost is not an issue.
===============
If you decide to use a passive crossover, the modest efficiency of the single WO24P-8 woofer, especially after baffle step correction SPL reductions, requires attenuation of the midrange(ckt diagram). This can lead to selection of the lower efficiency MW13P-8 midbass with Xmax=5mm and lower sealed box -F3 frequency instead of the MR13P-8 with Xmax=3mm. Passive crossovers often favor lower component count circuits with larger Xmax demands from the modest slopes.
If you decide to use an active crossover with one amplifier per driver and steeper crossover slopes, you can consider the MR13P-8 with lower Le and Mms.
Attachments
Thanks a lot!
I really appreciated your guide. Your comments all over the forum are treasures of explanations for newbie like me.
I need rethink about my plans.
Since I'm really new to speaker/xover design, in other post, other forum member advice me to build cheaper passive 2-way speaker by myself for understanding and learning.
I want to understand all about speakers/xovers design & build. And it seems that the way is to start with affordable 2-way with a lot of reading (forums, books, etc).
I might start with 2-way SB Acoutics: SB12CAC + SB21RDC.
I just purchased a Kindle copy of "Designing, Building, and Testing Your Own Speaker System with Projects".
If it goes well, I might build 3-way passive with Satori Beryllium + 5" + 9.5"
On the other hand, I have here almost a ready kit..so it is very attempting and I need a night or two to think what to do.
I will update as soon as I will make up my mind.
I really appreciated your guide. Your comments all over the forum are treasures of explanations for newbie like me.
I need rethink about my plans.
Since I'm really new to speaker/xover design, in other post, other forum member advice me to build cheaper passive 2-way speaker by myself for understanding and learning.
I want to understand all about speakers/xovers design & build. And it seems that the way is to start with affordable 2-way with a lot of reading (forums, books, etc).
I might start with 2-way SB Acoutics: SB12CAC + SB21RDC.
I just purchased a Kindle copy of "Designing, Building, and Testing Your Own Speaker System with Projects".
If it goes well, I might build 3-way passive with Satori Beryllium + 5" + 9.5"
On the other hand, I have here almost a ready kit..so it is very attempting and I need a night or two to think what to do.
I will update as soon as I will make up my mind.
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Thanks a lot!
I really appreciated your guide. Your comments all over the forum are treasures of explanations for newbie like me.
I need rethink about my plans.
Since I'm really new to speaker/xover design, in other post, other forum member advice me to build cheaper passive 2-way speaker by myself for understanding and learning.
I want to understand all about speakers/xovers design & build. And it seems that the way is to start with affordable 2-way with a lot of reading (forums, books, etc).
I might start with 2-way SB Acoutics: SB12CAC + SB21RDC.
I just purchased a Kindle copy of "Designing, Building, and Testing Your Own Speaker System with Projects".
If it goes well, I might build 3-way passive with Satori Beryllium + 5" + 9.5"
On the other hand, I have here almost a ready kit..so it is very attempting and I need a night or two to think what to do.
I will update as soon as I will make up my mind.
Hi! Are you aware of existence of Troels SBA 10 project? SBAcoustics 10
The woodshop cabilities often sets the design direction.
(from your earlier posts) If your woodshop includes a CNC you could download free CAD tools and design your ideal cabinet.
Consider your time and the cost of passive crossover components or MiniDSP---
If you are committed to the Satori midrange, it makes sense to purchase that driver now to learn how to get the best sound for a future 3-way build. MR13P-4 with Re=3.3ohms for the highest efficiency, or MR13P-8 with R3=6.8ohms for "wimpy" amps. You can experiment with the extended range from the small diameter SB21RDC-4 or low frequency "grunt" from the larger dome TW29R-4
(from your earlier posts) If your woodshop includes a CNC you could download free CAD tools and design your ideal cabinet.
Consider your time and the cost of passive crossover components or MiniDSP---
If you are committed to the Satori midrange, it makes sense to purchase that driver now to learn how to get the best sound for a future 3-way build. MR13P-4 with Re=3.3ohms for the highest efficiency, or MR13P-8 with R3=6.8ohms for "wimpy" amps. You can experiment with the extended range from the small diameter SB21RDC-4 or low frequency "grunt" from the larger dome TW29R-4
It has been busy days.
The UMIK-1 and a Tripod arrived this week, I start to play with and take measurements and it seems that my highs (2KHz+) have crazy dips&peaks - it seems really bed.
My speakers, Elipson Studio Pro, came with measurements graph - Studio Pro - Elipson - PDF Catalogues | Documentation | Brochures
and it really looks same in 2KHz and minus, but from up its look rough.
I like the XT25 + HDS Nomex inside my speakers and the measurements reflects the fatigue and harsh on highs I get from the speakers. I'll get few pics in the next measurements.
I purchased today RockWool, wood and fabric to make some acoustics panels to my room in the weekend
I read a bit about crossover and to be honest it was not easy to understand the electrical terms + English vocabulary.
Does active crossover (miniDSP) would be better for me?
It seems that I could benefit MUCH more from the room correction in the miniDSP, am I right?
The UMIK-1 and a Tripod arrived this week, I start to play with and take measurements and it seems that my highs (2KHz+) have crazy dips&peaks - it seems really bed.
My speakers, Elipson Studio Pro, came with measurements graph - Studio Pro - Elipson - PDF Catalogues | Documentation | Brochures
and it really looks same in 2KHz and minus, but from up its look rough.
I like the XT25 + HDS Nomex inside my speakers and the measurements reflects the fatigue and harsh on highs I get from the speakers. I'll get few pics in the next measurements.
I purchased today RockWool, wood and fabric to make some acoustics panels to my room in the weekend
I read a bit about crossover and to be honest it was not easy to understand the electrical terms + English vocabulary.
Does active crossover (miniDSP) would be better for me?
It seems that I could benefit MUCH more from the room correction in the miniDSP, am I right?
Besides cost why not use the matching SB passive radiator? No blow, huff, leaking and a smaller cabinet to boot.
I think you could even mount them in the sides of the cabinets and keep the front baffle clean looking.