Glad you like the result.
Those mechanical issues with the pots is why I suggested eliminating them altogether. You don't actually know the degradation they cause in sound until you take them out.
Large floor standers are convenient, but I would not say they are the holy grail. Vandersteen's approach with an integrated sub and EQ is probably the best idea I have seen, otherwise a separate sub with properly tuned EQ will often outperform a floor stander.
Best,
E
Those mechanical issues with the pots is why I suggested eliminating them altogether. You don't actually know the degradation they cause in sound until you take them out.
Large floor standers are convenient, but I would not say they are the holy grail. Vandersteen's approach with an integrated sub and EQ is probably the best idea I have seen, otherwise a separate sub with properly tuned EQ will often outperform a floor stander.
Best,
E
I wouldn't have agreed with you prior to this experiment. It blows my mind to be honest.
I can hear some benefits with either setup, which is a good position to be in. I don't plan on buying more speakers or more gear. I feel like I have what I need and once I get a few other pieces of gear recapped and ready to go, I can start playing around with the configuration, and focus on enjoying music and hunting down more vinyl.
Plus, I know that Vandersteen 3A speakers aren't easy to sell, partially due to their size, and they are an unknown quantity for the many people who have never heard them.
I can hear some benefits with either setup, which is a good position to be in. I don't plan on buying more speakers or more gear. I feel like I have what I need and once I get a few other pieces of gear recapped and ready to go, I can start playing around with the configuration, and focus on enjoying music and hunting down more vinyl.
Plus, I know that Vandersteen 3A speakers aren't easy to sell, partially due to their size, and they are an unknown quantity for the many people who have never heard them.
Hi guys, my name is Jon and have been a member here for many years, but I don't remember ever posting before.
I recently was given a set Of M&K S-iB's by a friend I checked them out and a woofer in each one was out. I got some replacements on Ebay, they aren't an exact match for the originals, but they work for now.
I'm having a problem with one speaker's crossover, no tweeter output. I've swapped the crossovers between the speakers, so I verified it is the crossover.
I've pulled all the caps and most of the resisters and checked them and they all seem to be OK. I also re-soldered all the connections. I have also installed banana jacks for the inputs
I suspect the rotary switch may be the problem. It's been suggested in this thread to bypass or remove the control.
Can anyone show me on a picture of the crossover how I would bypass it, or explain how it would be done?
Thanks,
J
I recently was given a set Of M&K S-iB's by a friend I checked them out and a woofer in each one was out. I got some replacements on Ebay, they aren't an exact match for the originals, but they work for now.
I'm having a problem with one speaker's crossover, no tweeter output. I've swapped the crossovers between the speakers, so I verified it is the crossover.
I've pulled all the caps and most of the resisters and checked them and they all seem to be OK. I also re-soldered all the connections. I have also installed banana jacks for the inputs
I suspect the rotary switch may be the problem. It's been suggested in this thread to bypass or remove the control.
Can anyone show me on a picture of the crossover how I would bypass it, or explain how it would be done?
Thanks,
J
Hi guys,
I have what I believe are the original satellite speakers - no adjustment switches, no removable panel on the back and glued-on grilles. Assume that the "only way in" is to remove the grilles somehow and take out one or both woofers to get to the crossover. Can I assume that the crossover schematic you developed may be close to what's in mine?
Thanks
CHarles
I have what I believe are the original satellite speakers - no adjustment switches, no removable panel on the back and glued-on grilles. Assume that the "only way in" is to remove the grilles somehow and take out one or both woofers to get to the crossover. Can I assume that the crossover schematic you developed may be close to what's in mine?
Thanks
CHarles
Jnoyes,
Sorry I missed that. You simply have to figure out what your preferred setting is and solder a wire "around" the switch, from the input to your preferred output.
The switch will have one tab which is the "input" and then as you move the switch, one (and only one) of the other tabs will connect to it. Each of those tabs goes to a different value resistor.
You can use test leads with alligator clips for this experiment.
Sorry I missed that. You simply have to figure out what your preferred setting is and solder a wire "around" the switch, from the input to your preferred output.
The switch will have one tab which is the "input" and then as you move the switch, one (and only one) of the other tabs will connect to it. Each of those tabs goes to a different value resistor.
You can use test leads with alligator clips for this experiment.
It will be close, but much simpler. The pics I found of the S-1 have a large back panel you could remove:
Only a thirty year wait
Took a long time to get around to buying a pair of S1B satellites.
I'm off to pick them up, and am curious as to how they compare with my own homage to them, using two Peerless vintage 6.5" nomex HDS woofers, a 4" whizzer cone full range, and two Peerless alnico paper tweeters per channel.
These M&K's are the older ones with Seas woofers and Peerless dome tweeters.
I've been using 3 way active crossovers with my projects for a long time now; as long as I use a blocking cap to protect the tweeters, would I expect better than stock sound quality bypassing the internal filters, then going with active crossovers for tweeters, midbass, and subwoofer?
Took a long time to get around to buying a pair of S1B satellites.
I'm off to pick them up, and am curious as to how they compare with my own homage to them, using two Peerless vintage 6.5" nomex HDS woofers, a 4" whizzer cone full range, and two Peerless alnico paper tweeters per channel.
These M&K's are the older ones with Seas woofers and Peerless dome tweeters.
I've been using 3 way active crossovers with my projects for a long time now; as long as I use a blocking cap to protect the tweeters, would I expect better than stock sound quality bypassing the internal filters, then going with active crossovers for tweeters, midbass, and subwoofer?
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