I'm making a 2.1 boombox with 2 efficient full range drivers and a 6-8" efficient subwoofer which works in a relatively small 10-15 litre reflex enclosure. I'd like to tune it somewhere around 50-60hz. I already have ordered a 2.1 D-class amp based on TPA3116 and I'm going to power it with a 10000mAh 6S Li-Po (22,2V). These are the drivers I'm thinking of getting atm:
- 2x FaitalPRO 4FE32 4" neodymium drivers 91 db (with a highpassfilter) https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs...ifications.pdf
- Dayton Audio SD215A-88 8" subwoofer, which should work in a small enclosure and is very efficient? Dayton Audio SD215A-88 8" DVC Subwoofer
Or do you think that 2x Tangband W5-1611SAF (or W5-2143) full range drivers would fit even better Tang Band W5-1611SAF 5" Full Range Speaker
PS. Last project of mine (2012) had an 18sound neodymium bass (8NMB420) and an 18sound tweeter (HD125) with a miniDSP, but it got stolen in 2016.
- 2x FaitalPRO 4FE32 4" neodymium drivers 91 db (with a highpassfilter) https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs...ifications.pdf
- Dayton Audio SD215A-88 8" subwoofer, which should work in a small enclosure and is very efficient? Dayton Audio SD215A-88 8" DVC Subwoofer
Or do you think that 2x Tangband W5-1611SAF (or W5-2143) full range drivers would fit even better Tang Band W5-1611SAF 5" Full Range Speaker
PS. Last project of mine (2012) had an 18sound neodymium bass (8NMB420) and an 18sound tweeter (HD125) with a miniDSP, but it got stolen in 2016.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Last edited:
That one looks good, too bad it got stolen.
You might want to aim for wide dispersion, as people can move around the speaker. 4" full range drivers are too beam to provide wide dispersion at high frequencies. Subwoofer and 'sats' in the same box means you can raise the crossover frequency (to 300-500 Hz?), in order to relieve the full range drivers, so small drivers will still survive.
You might want to aim for wide dispersion, as people can move around the speaker. 4" full range drivers are too beam to provide wide dispersion at high frequencies. Subwoofer and 'sats' in the same box means you can raise the crossover frequency (to 300-500 Hz?), in order to relieve the full range drivers, so small drivers will still survive.
Last edited:
That one looks good, too bad it got stolen.
You might want to aim for wide dispersion, as people can move around the speaker. 4" full range drivers are too beam to provide wide dispersion at high frequencies. Subwoofer and 'sats' in the same box means you can raise the crossover frequency (to 300-500 Hz?), in order to relieve the full range drivers, so small drivers will still survive.
Thanks for the reply! The Dayton Audio subwoofer looks to have a very nice stable frequency curve all the way to 500 Hz, so I would only need the sats around 300 Hz upwards. So what kind of sats should I be looking for and how should I execute the ~300 Hz highpass? The amplifier board has a "frequency adjuster"/lowpass for the bass from 80-500hz but I doubt the quality for 20 bucks...
Well Manninen, DIY is the point here and at least 50 % of the fun...
What do you think about the Dayton Audio sub fitting this project? It will have an own compartment with a reflex port. I'd like to order the drivers asap..
Would 2x Visaton BG13P 5" be better than the 4" FaitalPROs or 5" Tangbands in as small as possible sealed enclosure? Visaton BG13P 5"
What I really like about the FaitalPROs is that they are very light weight.
What do you think about the Dayton Audio sub fitting this project? It will have an own compartment with a reflex port. I'd like to order the drivers asap..
Would 2x Visaton BG13P 5" be better than the 4" FaitalPROs or 5" Tangbands in as small as possible sealed enclosure? Visaton BG13P 5"
What I really like about the FaitalPROs is that they are very light weight.
Last edited:
Muusikoiden.net - Tori - BMS 12CN680 Neodymium Coaxial 12" (#1305076)
try to get that cheap
well, seems like you dont need much output? rather decent low end.
Put that on max and everybody in koffpark is annoyed
try to get that cheap
well, seems like you dont need much output? rather decent low end.
Put that on max and everybody in koffpark is annoyed
I didn't sim it, but an 8" hi-fi subwoofer drivers seems to be about right to reach 50 Hz in 10-15 L. Higher efficiency isn't possible when it has to reach 50 Hz in that volume. Coated paper or poly are good choices for cones that do not get damaged easily. Uncoated paper might get damaged by water or beer. Ported is a logical choice for reasonably high efficiency and bandwidth up to > 150 Hz.
The crossover frequency can be altered when you do some soldering and replace some caps or resistors on the amplifier board. You have to know the (relevant part of the) circuit though, which requires you to trace the circuit around the opamp. Not too difficult to do if you know electronics, quite hard if you don't.
That depends of the amplifier model, if the hard way is needed. There are amplifiers that really have potentiometer for adjusting sub crossover frequency ( I have one ). Most of the TPA3116 2.1 amps have just fixed frequency though.
But I don't know any such amp which has high pass for main channels.
Here's a 2.1 with adjustable high pass. I've just bought one myself but haven't got around to playing with it yet! Not much use on a beach sadly as it's purely mains powered.
100-240VAC Bluetooth 4.2 HIFI TPA3116 2.1 Digital Power Amplifier 50WX2 100W | eBay
100-240VAC Bluetooth 4.2 HIFI TPA3116 2.1 Digital Power Amplifier 50WX2 100W | eBay
Last edited:
What exactly do you mean by "higher efficiency" being not possible to get in that volume? That 50 Hz is the lowest I should aim to in that enclosure size? If so, I think 50 Hz is definitely lowest I need to reach anyway. Do you think I should preferably port it a bit higher than 50 Hz (55? 60?), would I get noticeably more SPL? I can probably simulate that on WINISD.
Should I also make a highpass filter for the subwoofer, i.e. to the speaker wire or the same way as you mentioned earlier - by replacing some caps or resistors on the amp board? I don't really know electronics but I'm eager to learn, I do have a soldering iron and a multimeter..
TBTL: you mentioned in your first post that the 4" FaitalPros make a narrow beam. What kind of a fullrange driver would be more suitable? Or could I just try to make the sides of the front panel a bit curved for the sats to get a wider dispersion. I really like the idea that they are so light weight and very similar in sensitivity with the subwoofer(?). But I also like to have a control of the music, where it is directed to, so 360-systems are a no-no for me. I really appreciate the help here, thank you so much!
erkki1: I bought this particular amp: WINGONEER TPA3116 2x50W + 100W 2.1 Dual Channel Power: Amazon.de: Elektronik
It says it would have a bass volume and bass frequency potentiometer, but I'm always a bit sceptic towards things that sound too good to be true..
Where would you suggest to make the high pass filter for the 2x FaitalPRO 4FE32 (4ohm) when driven with the 8” Dayton audio sub, and could someone guide me to a link or say how do I know where to replace what condensator with which value on the amplifier? Should I also make a HPF for the sub at 45 hz or something (the box will be ~20l reflex tuned to 45hz-55hz)? Appreciate your reply!
Driver specs:
Dayton Audio Sub: https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/295-484-dayton-audio-sd215a-88-specifications-47084.pdf
FaitalPRO 4FE32: https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/294-1120-faitalpro-4fe32-4-specifications.pdf
Should I also make a HPF for the sub at 45 hz or something (the box will be ~20l reflex tuned to 45hz-55hz)? Appreciate your reply!Driver specs:
Dayton Audio Sub: https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/295-484-dayton-audio-sd215a-88-specifications-47084.pdf
FaitalPRO 4FE32: https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/294-1120-faitalpro-4fe32-4-specifications.pdf
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.