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"Unitized" Image Control Waveguide
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Old 21st May 2019, 08:29 PM   #101
Patrick Bateman is online now Patrick Bateman  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jzagaja View Post
Patrick - at which speed do you print your WGs? 150mm/s?
Around 40-50mm/s
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Old 21st May 2019, 08:33 PM   #102
jzagaja is offline jzagaja  Poland
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So standard. I'm interested in printers capable of 400 mm/s. Today I printed 12" STH biradial flat front for Aurum Cantus AST25120. Each part is 8-9 hours.
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Old 22nd May 2019, 09:07 PM   #103
Patrick Bateman is online now Patrick Bateman  United States
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Yes, these prints take nearly a day to complete, depending on how my printer is cooperating. That's part of the reason I'm letting people have the "Tier 3" prints instead of tossing them, there's a significant amount of time sunk into each print.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Here's a comparison of how the tiers look these days. Tier 3 on the left, Tier One on the right.

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Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Here's a new filament that I like a lot. It's called "ABS+."

I like plain ol' ABS a lot, but it is by far the most difficult to work with. It warps badly and it cracks. The reason that I continue experimenting with ABS is that the surface looks really good, it is strong, and most importantly it doesn't jam. ABS has a tough time sticking to anything, which is why it cracks, but it also doesn't stick to the nozzle, which is really nice! I am so sick of PETG prints that jam.

The ABS+ seems to make a dramatic reduction in cracking and shrinking. It is noticeably heavier, so I'm guessing it's denser somehow?

The only bad thing about ABS+, from what I can see, is availability. For instance, this off-white ABS+ filament is unobtanium now.

One thing that's promising about this ABS+ print is that I think this might be one of my first prints that's (almost) exceeding the quality you get from injection molding. It's a REALLY nice print. Note how the top and bottom are almost perfectly flat, and how the surface is really well behaved.

Click the image to open in full size.

Here's a Tier Two waveguide for comparison. This particular waveguide, I started out with PETG so that it would stick to the bed, then switched to ABS because ABS doesn't jam. This particular set of waveguides is headed to a member in Australia.

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Here's a "Tier Three" PETG waveguide. I had to glue this one together because the print died when the print head gummed up, due to the stickness of PETG.
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Old 22nd May 2019, 09:13 PM   #104
Brinkman is offline Brinkman  United States
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Waveguides arrived today. Thanks John!
Before I do any rework (sanding, painting), what filament did you use? Iím guessing PETG but Iím not positive.
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Old 22nd May 2019, 09:30 PM   #105
Patrick Bateman is online now Patrick Bateman  United States
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Excellent! That's my best PETG print. I have one running as we speak, in grey, we'll see how it turns out later today.

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As I understand it, PETG isn't as easy to sand as ABS, but it *is* sandable. The pic above is from ESUN, showing a PETG print, then sanded, then painted.

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My Gedlee Summas were bright blue when I purchased them, and I painted them black. Pictured above. To get them black, I simply used black plastidip from Home Depot. I went this route because it can be peeled off if you don't like how it looks.

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Here's how my Summas looked before I painted them.

As I understand it, the blue color of the Summas was actually vinyl paint! Which is kind of shocking, considering that it looks like an oil based paint.

Since your waveguides are plastic and the Summas are plastic*, painting them should be similar.

If you really wanted to go all-out, I think the ideal finish would be to sand them, cover them in bondo, sand that, and then go to an automotive supply store and purchase paint intended for automobiles. I used to do that for my car audio projects back in the day. It is a LOT of work, but it comes out looking about as good as an automotive finish.

If you want something quick and dirty, just spray paint them.

* My Summas had a carbon fiber skin which was bonded to a foam core using epoxy. Very much like surfboard construction.
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Old 22nd May 2019, 09:32 PM   #106
jzagaja is offline jzagaja  Poland
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With ABS you need closed chamber and ABS+Acetone (glue) if you use perforated table. Quality extruder is essential. For instance I use Microswiss on Zortrax (I do not reccomend these printers). From time to time replace PTFE tube or drill/clean if without. I like PLA because look very cool (pearl type), perfect dimensions, price, cold table etc. But requires fine tune raft to table gap so that supports removal is easy. PETG is even nicer. Best ABS I had is this: Compositum ABS EX™

I would like try two things:

1) Print outside skin with brittle material like PETG and inside rubber type material (TPU).

2) Print very thin shell (0.5mm, fast printing) and use expanding foam inside - require special design. For thin printing I would test material with carbon fibres - expensive 60-80$ per kg.
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Old 22nd May 2019, 09:41 PM   #107
Patrick Bateman is online now Patrick Bateman  United States
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One "weird" thing about ABS is that the quality of filament seems to vary much more.

That is part of the reason that I used clear PETG and "natural" ABS: my hunch is that the quality of vendors may vary based on color.

That might seem nutty, but I've *definitely* noticed that certain colors print better than others. I'm guessing this is because vendors have to keep the purity of clear and light colors very high. IE, if you have a dark filament, it's easier to get away with impurities or even recycled material. Again, rampant speculation on my part. My best PETG print of all time is that one that Brinkman has, and it used clear PETG filament. I can barely get black PETG to print at all.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

This was the first and last black PETG print I ever did. It jammed up three times before it finished. There were something like three or four failed prints that went into the trash. I think I spent about four hours tinkering with my printer until realizing the problem was the filament. (Note the ugly 'stitching' where I welded two prints together using a soldering iron.

Click the image to open in full size.

And with white filament, it wasn't perfect, but it didn't jam. (Note some shrinkage on the bottom right.)

My ABS+ prints are coming out quite well, I might go that route 100% of the time if I can find some more filament in natural or white. I am using a MicroSwiss nozzle and a DIY enclosure. I think I may add some kind of insulating blanket to my enclosure, because I've noticed the walls get warm, which indicates that the enclosure itself is radiating heat. I have to find some kind of insulator that isn't flammable. I'd use foam insulation but that's too risky I think. (3D printers have been known to catch on fire!)

TLDR: ESUN ABS+ seems to work quite nicely, but is unobtanium in 'natural'. Monoprice ABS hates me. Clear PETG from Amazon works really nice too, when it's not jamming up the nozzle.

Last edited by Patrick Bateman; 22nd May 2019 at 09:44 PM.
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Old 22nd May 2019, 10:24 PM   #108
Brinkman is offline Brinkman  United States
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Thanks for the info John.
Iíll probably sand it to 150 grit, fill any dips & dings with woodfiller and then coat them with black rustoleum paint & primer from a rattle can. After that, a clear gloss topcoat. Thatís essentially how I got made some black EOS plastic waveguides white (see below). Coincidentally, the Fusion 8 speakers as pictured below are what Iím replacing with whatever fruits are borne from this project.
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Old 24th May 2019, 07:10 PM   #109
Brinkman is offline Brinkman  United States
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After giving the waveguides a couple quick passes with a propane torch, I deburred both with 80 grit sand paper. After rinsing them off, I covered both waveguide interiors with Elmerís wood filler (I am familiar with it and like the sandability) and am in the process of removing the excess filler with 100 grit sandpaper.

Iím leaving around lunch to spend the holiday weekend in the mountains and do a little repair work at the in-laws cabin so I wonít get to priming and painting until next week.
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Old 27th May 2019, 07:39 PM   #110
Patrick Bateman is online now Patrick Bateman  United States
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These look so great!

I'm halfway decent at making stuff in 3D, but I am *terrible* at finishing things in real life. Love these!
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