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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

1970's TL remake help
1970's TL remake help
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Old 9th March 2018, 05:35 PM   #11
phivates is online now phivates  United States
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Maybe some diffraction treatment will help with the boxy sound, but the bass is an old school end loaded TL which will have peaks and nulls unless so heavily stuffed that you get no output from the vent. Still, I would have them. A classic for old school TL guys like me.
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Old 10th March 2018, 02:32 AM   #12
TMM is offline TMM  Australia
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Originally Posted by system7 View Post
webby, I think you have this all wrong. You can't replace a 5" mid with a 3.5" fullrange one and get enough loudness.
If running active the difference in sensitivity shouldn't matter. What does matter is how low you want to cross it and what listening level you want to achieve from the system. The TC9 and TG9 are some of the better 3.5" drivers in that respect; 350-400Hz LR4 should be no problem at elevated listening levels.

Even if running passive there are 3.5" drivers which are quite sensitive (~85-87dB/2.83V/1meter). The Vifa NE95W and the metal cone Tang band W3s are a good 3-5dB more sensitive than TC9/TG9s. Timothy Feleppa's Pages
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Old 12th March 2018, 09:08 PM   #13
webby is offline webby  United Kingdom
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Originally Posted by boswald View Post
Take off the baffle, measure the insides, and give us a photo. Then we'll see what can fit where.
Hi All,
Removed the baffle and rear panel so you can see how it relates to the article drawings, looks well made, very much better then I could manage.

Any ideas then?
Many thanks
Ian
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Old 12th March 2018, 09:13 PM   #14
webby is offline webby  United Kingdom
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Originally Posted by TMM View Post
If running active the difference in sensitivity shouldn't matter. What does matter is how low you want to cross it and what listening level you want to achieve from the system. The TC9 and TG9 are some of the better 3.5" drivers in that respect; 350-400Hz LR4 should be no problem at elevated listening levels.
Thanks for the info, I don't really get much of a chance to play loud these days, small people asleep upstairs, so not really worried about party levels.

Is the Mid enclosure position a problem, seem very low down?
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Old 12th March 2018, 09:51 PM   #15
phivates is online now phivates  United States
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You could make a new front baffle and fit it to the back, making a tighter mid-tweet spacing possible. Would need a potted midrange or two. Yeah, that's the ticket: 2 TC9s and a Morel MDT12.A new tweeter would make the extra hf driver unnecessary. One of the forum modelers could sim the lf behavior.
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Old 12th March 2018, 10:02 PM   #16
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Unless the crossovers or any of the drivers are trashed, I'd be inclined to keep as close to stock as possible, and if you want to flush the baffle, simply add additional batten /spacers, refurbish the baffle with a skim coat of bondo filler and re-paint, and maybe a new grille?
Cutting an all new front baffle by hand will be rather a lot of work - particularly for the B139.
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Old 12th March 2018, 10:32 PM   #17
phivates is online now phivates  United States
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Sometimes I forget that my toolkit is a bit beyond that of the average non-carpenter/woodworker.
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Old 13th March 2018, 01:53 AM   #18
suzyj is offline suzyj  Australia
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TG9's are lower distortion than TC9, drop into the same cutout, and not much more dough.
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Old 13th March 2018, 07:09 AM   #19
LineSource is offline LineSource  United States
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If both KEF B139 woofers are in good condition...

You could save your DSP for a future no-compromise new set of speakers.

Build a passive crossover for a modern 5"-6" midrange and your D25AG-05-06 tweeter which blends with the KEF B139 TL with their current crossover. Keep-It-Simple 3-way speakers. You want the tweeter at seated ear level with the new midrange butted below... so you will need to patch baffle holes and re-route for the new drivers. On a flat baffle the phase shift difference between BW3 for the tweeter and LR2 for the midrange helps compensate for the time alignment difference. Give consideration to a wide bandwidth poly-plastic cone midrange on this large baffle.
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Old 13th March 2018, 04:57 PM   #20
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Sometimes I forget that my toolkit is a bit beyond that of the average non-carpenter/woodworker.
Soon to be retiring from over 25yrs in a commercial millwork shop with some pretty damned fancy toys and over 500sq ft of personal work area, that's a very easy factor to overlook.

Not to put a damper on the project, I'll repeat that if none of the drivers are damaged, I'd be inclined to consider maybe upgrading any EL crossover caps, refurbish the baffle and add spacer cleats to remove the recess and enjoy. Much more than that would require complete re-engineering of the system and possibly some painful reconstruction of the cabinets themselves. Some folks might well consider these a vintage classic worthy of restoration rather than renovation.
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