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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Enclosure walls construction for 3012LF Neo
Enclosure walls construction for 3012LF Neo
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Old 2nd March 2018, 05:42 AM   #11
Flaxxer is offline Flaxxer  United States
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@ LineSource ... That is more like what I was planning. I have used the void free cabinet grade before. While not BB, I can't imagine it not being enough with a "light" woofer. And you nailed it too ... I've built tons of subwoofers. This is my first experience using what you refer to as a "light" woofer.

I know I can build a dead. heavy cabinet. Done it many times. But wasn't sure if this type of cabinet/woofer combo called for that really. And I'm not at all opposed to getting a separate 1/4" sheet of hardboard, or cab grade ply, if they have it that thin, and making a 1" thick cabinet, IF it would help. I will buy a half sheet for making braces.
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Old 2nd March 2018, 05:59 AM   #12
ScottG is offline ScottG  United States
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Originally Posted by Flaxxer View Post
Huh? thin wall. I apologize. My explaining skills couldn't be much worse. This thread is sooo far away from what I was thinking.
I'm sure I will be okay.
It's that: "each to their own".

A thin wall constuction can have it's modes more easily suppressed with the right kind of spot-bracing.

On top of that (literally),

I like a heavy rigid well-sealed enclosure to spress sound transmission THROUGH the cabinet walls.

Finally, I like a very rigid interface between driver and baffle. (..and cementious stucco does that in addition to blocking sound transmission.)


-ideally I'd prefer a sand-damped box, but that's not very "thin" (and it's a lot more complex). What I described you can achieve well with something slightly less than an inch thick.


Both are heavy.. heavy is GOOD!
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Last edited by ScottG; 2nd March 2018 at 06:01 AM.
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Old 2nd March 2018, 06:03 AM   #13
ScottG is offline ScottG  United States
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btw, there is always bamboo ply - expensive and a bitch to cut. (..looks good though.)
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Old 2nd March 2018, 06:05 AM   #14
planet10 is offline planet10  Canada
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Enclosure walls construction for 3012LF Neo
Get the stranded variety.

dave
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Old 2nd March 2018, 06:51 AM   #15
LineSource is offline LineSource  United States
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If you have extra "cheap" 0.75" plywood around, you could construct a second outside front baffle from the expensive plywood, and use the cheaper plywood for the rear panel. This extra thick front baffle will allow you to counter-sink the woofer into the front baffle without any loss in strength. Extra 0.75" plywood would also allow you to easily cut a clever set of horizontal and vertical braces(like 4-pane window brace, or multi-hole X-Y matrix braces)

PORTS: simulation of 44Hz Qtc=0.7 tuning shows:
_one 4" diameter "flat edges" port is 4" long
_two 4" diameter "flat edges" ports are each 11" long
_one 6" diameter "flat edges" port is 11.3" long

SO, a screw-in interchangable port pipe would allow you to experiment with "bass shelf" tuning like 40Hz:
_one 4" diameter "flat edges" port is 5.5" long
_two 4" diameter "flat edges" ports are each 14" long
_one 6" diameter "flat edges" port is 14.6" long

The port length is measured from the front-edge of the front baffle.
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Old 2nd March 2018, 02:36 PM   #16
Flaxxer is offline Flaxxer  United States
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Adding a bit of info here ... I have been on the phone or email for two days now. Unless I am buying a pallet, getting ANY sheets of 18mm BB being shipped in, will cost me a fortune. I would be over $600 in plywood alone. NOPE. The drivers in this build total $500. ALL I have available is 5'x5' sheets of the 11mm available at $60 per sheet. Just no.

As far as standard construction, I always make the baffle thicker, and route out for air flow. Use wood glue and TONS of clamps, etc. Constructing the enclosure properly. Bracing it properly, etc, was not really my concern. It was material choices I have available, and possible alternate construction techniques (laminating, concrete lining, etc) , which I was kind of asking about.

My ONLY questions stem from having not built an enclosure this large, since the mid 90s. And having never built an enclosure for THIS exact type of driver before.

Last edited by Flaxxer; 2nd March 2018 at 02:43 PM.
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Old 2nd March 2018, 03:10 PM   #17
Flaxxer is offline Flaxxer  United States
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Thank you, LineSource! The screw in port baffle section is GOLDEN in my particular application. My listening area is SOOOOOOO odd, no really! LOL
This allows me to fine tune before the DSP takes over. I love it.

Is there a way to cover a port, without affecting it's performance? Like, super flowing grill cloth, or similar? I hate round holes staring at me.
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Old 2nd March 2018, 09:43 PM   #18
Ron E is offline Ron E  United States
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Originally Posted by Flaxxer View Post
My ONLY questions stem from having not built an enclosure this large, since the mid 90s. And having never built an enclosure for THIS exact type of driver before.
2.8 cubes is not a large cabinet.

IMO, stiffness is more important than mass. Your cabinet will probably be 50-80 lb anyway. Dado in some 2" long (deep) ribs every 4" or so along the length of any panel. No need to double up the baffle or treat the corners specially. You can tie opposite panels together if you like.

Try it with cheap ply just for the fun of it...you might be surprised how stiff it is.
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Old 2nd March 2018, 10:41 PM   #19
Flaxxer is offline Flaxxer  United States
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Thanks everyone. I have been able to gain the answers I was seeking.I am going to use the cabinet grade 18mm void free ply we have locally. I will brace it very, very well. I will make the baffle doubled.

I have another question or two now... What happens if you are using a mid and tweeter which do not really need any rear cabinet, volume at all. This would allow a person to make a flat baffle extending above the woofer cabinet, for the mid and tweeter to mount on. Ala, no cabinet for the mids and highs.

Yet NOT a dipole at all. Both mid and tweeter have sealed rears.

What does having a narrow baffle, say maybe only an inch wider than they each are, do to the sound coming your way? Does it have ANY drawbacks?
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Old 2nd March 2018, 10:47 PM   #20
ScottG is offline ScottG  United States
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-generally you want to keep the baffle as small as possible while also keeping diffraction as low as possible.

In essence you want nice rounded "edges" - particularly with respect to horizontal baffle edges.

Ex. for a long AMT tweeter think cylinder in shape with a bit of rounding at the top and bottom.
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