L8 -- 0.5 mH inductor has to be .49 ohm correct?
This re-occurred to me when I was using the Bagby Passive cross-over designer
I have lots of .5 mH inductors; but the smalled gauge ones tend not to be labelled
I can't find any 20 gauge labelled inductors
I couldn't model midrange cross-over on this designer
The woofer zobel helped, but 65-80 uF zobel cap does not model well, I think
This re-occurred to me when I was using the Bagby Passive cross-over designer
I have lots of .5 mH inductors; but the smalled gauge ones tend not to be labelled
I can't find any 20 gauge labelled inductors
I couldn't model midrange cross-over on this designer
The woofer zobel helped, but 65-80 uF zobel cap does not model well, I think
Last edited:
What about the resistance of the speaker wires? Or the wiring in the speaker? Or the amplifier output impedance? If 0.49 ohms is correct, what sort of tolerance have you got? I model my crossovers with a range of inductor resistance values to make sure it doesn't cause variation.
Any one know how these vintage rifa caps sound?
I believe they are metalized paper
Pic is of the tweeter section
Oops it has the wrong caps (0.1uF); suppose to be 0.01uF but I won't use those anyway probably
Guess I will listen to them, but I'm not sure I have a golden ear
Turns out I have a 19 gauge or .91 mm diameter .5 mH inductor and a 14-16 gauge also I think
I believe they are metalized paper
Pic is of the tweeter section
Oops it has the wrong caps (0.1uF); suppose to be 0.01uF but I won't use those anyway probably
Guess I will listen to them, but I'm not sure I have a golden ear
Turns out I have a 19 gauge or .91 mm diameter .5 mH inductor and a 14-16 gauge also I think
Attachments
Last edited:
Hold them to your ear. I'm pretty sure they're as silent as any other capacitors.
Can't hear difference between new and old x-over, except the midrange is a lot less efficient, as the excel spreadsheet told me it would be; even though I couldn't input all the components
Guess I'm not a very good "audiophile"
Took some measurement with old x-over, one with tweeter off and one with midrange off and one with tweeter and mid off
Mic was about 1.5 cm from the front of the mid/tweeter, woofer was about 3cm away
Woofer I could not turn of without opening box, so I skipped that
Aperiodic vent sounds better
Feel like the speakers are hissing at me, especially with human voice making "s" sound; but happens on my computer speakers too and speakers I had before
I mostly listen to youtube, mp3, mp4, other compressed audio
Can't play any FLAC files, so far
Included pic of Scanspeak aperiodic vent
I built a speaker with that before, Eton 8-800, excellent fast/tight bass
Seems as though you can compress fiberglass (or something else, I don't use fiberglass) to about 25% of it's original starting thickness as a good starting point
I used polyfill stuff between perforated sheet metal
Last pic is summed response of old cross-over where my head is, were I usually sit, I think
The scale says 20 dB on the scale, but I think it's about 10 dB, just looking at the cross-over roll off, but I really don't know
BTW, the cross-over was really time consuming and it did not help I used a bunch of little caps
If you can avoid a passive cross-over, you save a bunch of time and money, especially if you value your time and don't particularly enjoy soldering/ building cross-over
Not sure if people still use Pb solder; I think "ROHS" is lead free
Also, thanks to Zaph, even though I butcher his x-over in most peoples' eyes
I don't believe there is much "magic" in a cross-over and flat FR for that matter and I guess this project kind of proved it to me
But I don't know how "audiophiley" I am, since I like the sound of my old Bose 301's better than my current Usher 9950/8948 ported 2-way
The most annoying part(s) is the hissing which I have not measured in any FR measurement, with these speakers or others
and then the boominess of the woofer was kind of annoying before I put in the vent
Guess I'm not a very good "audiophile"
Took some measurement with old x-over, one with tweeter off and one with midrange off and one with tweeter and mid off
Mic was about 1.5 cm from the front of the mid/tweeter, woofer was about 3cm away
Woofer I could not turn of without opening box, so I skipped that
Aperiodic vent sounds better
Feel like the speakers are hissing at me, especially with human voice making "s" sound; but happens on my computer speakers too and speakers I had before
I mostly listen to youtube, mp3, mp4, other compressed audio
Can't play any FLAC files, so far
Included pic of Scanspeak aperiodic vent
I built a speaker with that before, Eton 8-800, excellent fast/tight bass
Seems as though you can compress fiberglass (or something else, I don't use fiberglass) to about 25% of it's original starting thickness as a good starting point
I used polyfill stuff between perforated sheet metal
Last pic is summed response of old cross-over where my head is, were I usually sit, I think
The scale says 20 dB on the scale, but I think it's about 10 dB, just looking at the cross-over roll off, but I really don't know
BTW, the cross-over was really time consuming and it did not help I used a bunch of little caps
If you can avoid a passive cross-over, you save a bunch of time and money, especially if you value your time and don't particularly enjoy soldering/ building cross-over
Not sure if people still use Pb solder; I think "ROHS" is lead free
Also, thanks to Zaph, even though I butcher his x-over in most peoples' eyes
I don't believe there is much "magic" in a cross-over and flat FR for that matter and I guess this project kind of proved it to me
But I don't know how "audiophiley" I am, since I like the sound of my old Bose 301's better than my current Usher 9950/8948 ported 2-way
The most annoying part(s) is the hissing which I have not measured in any FR measurement, with these speakers or others
and then the boominess of the woofer was kind of annoying before I put in the vent
Attachments
Last edited:
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.