Console?

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Philips console...

well as Dave suggests, anything that could help create a discontinuous front might be helpful. But a continuous front could help reinforce bass...My design allows for the separation of loudspeakers, as well as a few ways to configure it.
 
an inch or two proud would be ok . I have at least eliminated the on wall speakers they just will not work. Front or top loading equipment? built in turntable. wanted something that looks neat as in uncluttered. neat as in cool would be good as a plus. I already bought the baltic birch. I think I will build the unit and the speakers tbd as add ons either module or speparates. To a point made phivats a while ago the idea of interchanging equipment makes sense. thank you
 
Turntable drawer at the bottom was a common solution for top facing electronics in width limited consoles. Your Marantz integrated+tuner will take up considerable space, and you still need to incorporate a cd player I presume. Many sixties consoles had the receivers oriented front to back with the tt adjacent, with their controls labels and tuner dial adjusted accordingly. I won't tell you to just buy a nice newer slender receiver though; I comprehend budget restrictions. Do purchase the best pair of speakers you can afford though. Dave can direct you to a nice slender enclosure design which matches your choice.
 
Keep in mind that while many of the other components necessary for a modern take on full featured console may be available with much smaller footprints than 50yrs ago, the turntable is not. The entertainment cabinet I posted a photo of a few pages back was a total of 400mm (~16") deep to accommodate the turntable on a slide-out shelf. The dimensions of that device also drove the size of the cabinet - with equal compartments of 530mm width, the overall length was approx 1700mm ( 66"). The black boxes sitting on top of the cabinet and flanking the flat screen TV are speakers with CHR70s in one of Dave's designs. Hidden in a rear corner of the room is a small sub-woofer with SDX7 - great little driver that works like a charm in an approx 1cu ft box.

FWIW, all of the consoles I've ever seen had the record players under a hinged lid, whether the electronics were oriented vertically in a shared compartment - usually along with a small record storage bin - or horizontally behind sliding doors.
 
Hi thank you

I am still debating the top mount with the marantz and the tuner mounted front to back the cd player almost makes the shelving unit concept more appealing as the front has to be open for the cd player regardless. All of the newer equipment I have is 17" wide so a cabinet about 38" wide makes sense i think I would like to put the turntable under a hinged lid. to keep it neat. Chris the cabinet you made looks great. those speakers also look great. Is the center channel the same speaker? Are those speaker still available? . I put a solid oak breakfast bar in about 4 years ago and if you set an egg on it it will be scrambled by the time it stops rolling around. so we are going to use baltic birch double layer for a breakfast bar. This cabinet/console will match that. thank you again for your help.
 
Ben, the centre channel is an Alpair7.3 - the L&R mains are older CHR70s (5.5 litre sealed) . While a newer version of the CHR is available, I'd strongly recommend the Pluvia 7s in their stead - but if budget permits, the Alpair is definitely more refined overall. IIRC our friend XRK came up with a shallow wall mount design for them that'd be an excellent candidate for this application.

As for double layer baltic birch - on this coast the local Windsor Plywood has the Russian 5x5 available in up to 1" thick @ $88/ea. I've never had occasion to go that thick, and as it's a "shop" grade (C/C face) it's subject to random patches, etc, but if the size works for your pattern break-out, it'd be something to keep in mind.
 
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Phivates that sounds like a great console. never saw one with a reel to reel.

I will look into the pluvia 7 there is a alpair on canuck audio mart but one of the cones is creased. not sure but that probably is not the best thing. the 7 is a 4" cone the super zeros have a 3.5 cone. do you think the 7 will have more bass than the zeros. is the sub mandatory if so I would like to integrate into the console not have a separate sub

i get 4x8 3/4 for 129 tax in here but it is special order it is suppose to be good 2 side but I am disappointed with the plugs and covered defects and dont get to pick my boards they come wrapped from goodfellows. for turntable plinths it does not matter because I can hide the flaws in the layers. One of the few drawbacks of rural living.

Your design sounds interesting Nanook.

I am anxious to start making chips but just had another project come in.

thank you all again

Ben
 
frugal-phile™
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If a cone is creased on the A7 for sale then 2 is really only 1.

Even with tax in $129 is pricey, but i guess there may be shipping on a special order.

Cone size only impacts the air moved and not how low it will go. An Alpair 5’2 can go lower than the super zeroes, the A7 even lower. The P7 has the same cone size as the A7 and goes lower yet — if the equivalence with the EL70 is an indication — goes lower than any othe Marl Audio except the A10.2cor A12pw (and the same as EL70), lower then A12x or A10.3/A10p all with larger cones.

dave
 
where can I see the prices of the Mark Audio in Canada is that something you sell Dave?

GM the Ikea is 5 hours round trip. good idea but I do have a old iron wood shop so I like getting some money back out of it. I saw a leons ad that had a unit for 300 but I think I can build a better one incorporating the ideas posted here.

I know this is a dumb question but would horns built into the side of the console improve the sound or is it better just to leave the speakers slightly proud.

thanks

Ben
 
frugal-phile™
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Since Bob shut down CSS in Canada there has been no direct source of stock Mark Audio in Canada. I, to date, have only sold EnABLed and matched versions of these drivers.

I am considering the possibility of providing stock drivers, but it would be very hard to compete directly with Madisound and make any money at it. A pr from them shipped USPS is quite reasonable with only one shipping, i’d have to charge for 2 shippings. About half the time they sneak thru customs with no charges, if you get hit it is no different than paying the GST/PST/HST you would from a Canadian vendor.

If you are interested in an EnABLed set contact me… the contact guy at Madisound is Adam, best to phone to order from Canada.

dave
 
frugal-phile™
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would horns built into the side of the console improve the sound or is it better just to leave the speakers slightly proud

With the MA drivers — with the possible exception of using them as EQed midTweeters — horn load is only useful at the lowest frequencies, which means big, and gain in the bass, something you have expressed that you already have too much of.

What you likely need is an overdamped system where the gain you get from room position is countered by a droopy anechoic response… for you situation, morphing the Poplar ML-TL to the shape needed might be possible or just a carefully tuned BR or just some aperidic damping in the vents of an existing Mar-Ken (if needed).

dave
 
Thank you Dave and everyone

I kind of feel like I have wasted everyone's time. no horns, no wings or other mythical beast parts, no baffles no angles no bouncing the sound off of hidden convex shapes.. I guess there is a reason why the consoles have joined the dodo bird. In the long run a stereo cabinet and separate speakers just make more sense. I was going to build in the turntable at least but keep thinking it is a 40 year old turntable if something goes wrong with it I will be obligated to buy another Dual 4 spring. So finding a way to completely hide the wires and building the speakers are going to be the only exciting parts. thank you all for all the help I will publish pics as I go this group is great and I really appreciate all the help and helping me go thru the thought process.

thank you again.

Ben
 

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I gave up too soon

I gave up too soon has anyone tried the Erich Design for the alpair 10s I can make the unit the same depth and locate the speakers inside upper corners angled up. no wires and if they are too low I can sit on the floor. I will attach pictures I think it will work thank you all again.

Ben
 
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frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
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Erich Hartmann design

I did a drawing of those. It is for the Alpair 10.2 which means it will not work well with the A10.3. I also recall Scott having that he thot the the alignment was not that great.

It is easy enuff to emulate the shape. The box should be 13 litres and from there one adjusts for a proper size slot vent at the bottom.

Note: The grey A10.3 are not grey, they are silver.

dave
 
Thank you for responding and thank you for your help Dave. I really want to use the great ideas that you and Scott have institutionalized in speaker building like the holey brace and the birch plywood. I would like to fit the speakers into the console but I am not against building them right in either. I do not mind if the cabinet is complex but I would like to utilize the depth (around 12-14 inches and keep the baffle narrow. it can be up to 20 inches high. If stick to 13 lts minus the braces and driver and keep the vent the same size will I get a good result? I can make the over all length of the console 60" if the speakers are integrated or sit in a shelf. I can let the speaker be proud a couple of inchs and keep the area directly around the speaker open - outside edge, album storage, top of unit, small equipment. I have read several of the posts on the alpair 10 speakers very positive in your cabinets. less so with other cabinets. thank yo again.

Ben
 
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