thanks Chris I keep going back and forth on the console I am not thinking about making a baltic birch plywood cabinet to hold the marantz. tuner. turntable and maybe even a cd player. here is a pic of the concept it can only be about 18 inches high to fit in front of the bow window. I have made several layered birch turntable plinths and we like the look of the plywood edge so I am thinking about making the whole thing using an exposed edge like a layered plinth. I would seam it to save money but I think it may look pretty cool. the electronics could be updated and the speakers would be outside of the cabinet. I may end up getting the chainsaw out and turn the small thors in shorter odins. 
I'd hold off on hacking up a perfectly good pair of speakers - just build something new in the console. Depending on your proximity to suppliers to commercial furniture / cabinet trades, you could probably fine some very high quality pre-veneered plywood. I made a unit for my son last year from Walnut Pro-core that turned out quite nicely, but was edge-banded with matching tape.
Shelf for turntable pulls out - centre channel speaker is A7.3, and the L&R are CHR70s
OK moderator / photo gurus - someone rotate this one for me? I can build things, but am hopeless at this.
Shelf for turntable pulls out - centre channel speaker is A7.3, and the L&R are CHR70s
OK moderator / photo gurus - someone rotate this one for me? I can build things, but am hopeless at this.
Attachments
That is a beautiful cabinet Chris. Looks great. I dont know that I can build one to that level. but I think I maybe able to make something acceptable. I think after listening to the old components for a second evening making a cabinet is the right way to go. I set the speakers right in the bow window and added the turntable and I have to say the maybe because of the placement of the chair in the room or the way the bow window is changing the sound the soundstage was really quite good.
anatech asked me how much room was available for a volume control so I thought I would take a look and found a tab that was broken off soldered it and the volume control works I have a little noise in the left channel. but all in all it sounds pretty good.
thanks you all
Ben
anatech asked me how much room was available for a volume control so I thought I would take a look and found a tab that was broken off soldered it and the volume control works I have a little noise in the left channel. but all in all it sounds pretty good.
thanks you all
Ben
We have "furniture and large appliance" collection day in April. Just put it out on the treelawn --
Or visit "Habitat Re-Store".
Me, I repurposed a console from Gumps
http://www.gumps.com/furnishings/living-room/media-consoles-sort-best-viewall
Or visit "Habitat Re-Store".
Me, I repurposed a console from Gumps
http://www.gumps.com/furnishings/living-room/media-consoles-sort-best-viewall
It is not forbidden to discuss the possible use of a fullrange speaker. When you want to discuss differences between them, you'll find more response 'over there'.
The main problem with a fullrange in a console is that you will want it to be big for bass(and you have the volume for bass in a console). And that means limited dispersion at higher frequencies.
And that may require very low seating.
But if you add a tweeter to a large fullrange you will have better dispersion.(A lot like my old Magnavox with its 12"ers and tweeters.)
So you are not reinventing the wheel, you are making a better one, with modern parts and the ability to make a better handoff- they used to cross higher than we do now as the crossover was cheaper that way.
The main problem with a fullrange in a console is that you will want it to be big for bass(and you have the volume for bass in a console). And that means limited dispersion at higher frequencies.
And that may require very low seating.
But if you add a tweeter to a large fullrange you will have better dispersion.(A lot like my old Magnavox with its 12"ers and tweeters.)
So you are not reinventing the wheel, you are making a better one, with modern parts and the ability to make a better handoff- they used to cross higher than we do now as the crossover was cheaper that way.
Yes a FR can work. To do bass you likely will need to build a box around it (most consoles are effectivily poor Its) and slant the baffle upwards to solve the low placement issue.
One of our members near Winnipeg is usung Alpair 12eN in a reprodcution of a famous console (name escapes me, G-something), and as i mentioned earlier i designed an FF165wk box for some fellows working on a modern console.
For a single driver 4-6.5” is likely the sweet spot.
One could also consider a WAW with a smaller FR and a helper woofer.
dave
One of our members near Winnipeg is usung Alpair 12eN in a reprodcution of a famous console (name escapes me, G-something), and as i mentioned earlier i designed an FF165wk box for some fellows working on a modern console.
For a single driver 4-6.5” is likely the sweet spot.
One could also consider a WAW with a smaller FR and a helper woofer.
dave
thank you both for the responses. I do not mind the sound of the boston acoustic speakers but it would be nice to have it as an all in one. but I do not want to spend money and have it sound poor. I know from experience if I listen to the people on this site the sound will be great. It does not need to play very loud. I am thinking of a single full range speaker on each side of a cabinet 4 or 5 feet long. 20 inches high 12 inches deep. the center 18" would house components. the rest could be for speakers so just under 3 sq ft per speaker. the speaker could be mounted at the very top. and tilted to Daves point. If the Mark audio speakers will work do you just hook the amp directly to the speaker? if needed the speaker could sit proud on the top of the cabinet that would put the center of the speaker closer to 28 inches I will try to do my normal piccaso sketchup and do some homework to try to figure out the minimum volume for that speaker. thank you again.
Ben
Ben
Way more than needed. The Alpair 12 is optimum in a 13 litre box (~½ ft[sup3[/sup]), the A12.2p can take advantage of 17 litres,
I would certainly start there. Filters for BSC or notches for resonances can be tried later. Certainly the 1st have been used, i can’t recall any of the latter.
dave
that is a good point on the depth. the 12Ps were already sold missed out on them. But I do want to figure out how to build it with everything enclosed. the other option would be to make speakers that would blend in when next to the unit looking like a single console. that would mean making everything on adjustable feet.
I know this maybe not a good question for this thread but here goes. The Dave Scottmoose design of the small thors is fantastic. The more I think about it and think about how few times I sit in the basement and listen to them now. I am thinking about using the drivers and crossover and putting them in a pair of speakers that would work upstairs. so i am thinking of course of the Odins but i was wondering what the impact of a tmm or a bookshelf tm instead of the mtm that would get the tweeter closer to ear hgt or be a true bookshelf speaker or would that require a whole new design and crossover. the second question is building the odins with a offset tweeter. I found when i built the thors there was not much room between the mids for the tweeter. and my third question is if I keep the baffle, the volume, the port the height and the depth the same size can I incorporate the holey cross brace and touch on the back of the speakers like the small thors. instead of single brace of the odins. may have to add an inch to the height to keep the same volume. I think a lot of way smarter people have tryed to work with these drivers in bookshelf speaker designs so I do not want to try to use speaker design software and make something new. thanks for the help.
Ben
Ben
I’d guess that to fit in the console you would need to do an MT, not sure if anyone has sorted an XO for that pairing. You would have the same voicing but not as much bass.
We have found the holey brace applicable to most loudspeakers and have made some significant improvements in other people’s design sjust with a rearrangement of bracing.
dave
We have found the holey brace applicable to most loudspeakers and have made some significant improvements in other people’s design sjust with a rearrangement of bracing.
dave
Hi Dave
If the console is 24" I am thinking I could match the speakers even the Odins to match the height and depth the odins are 22x14x9 I could almost attach them to the cabinet and try to raise and lower them in some cool manner or just camo them in next to the console. does the crossover change if the tweeter is offset? I just remember there is not much plywood left between the m and the t. The distance between the woofers is critical I think.
Thank you
Ben
If the console is 24" I am thinking I could match the speakers even the Odins to match the height and depth the odins are 22x14x9 I could almost attach them to the cabinet and try to raise and lower them in some cool manner or just camo them in next to the console. does the crossover change if the tweeter is offset? I just remember there is not much plywood left between the m and the t. The distance between the woofers is critical I think.
Thank you
Ben
Attaching the speakers to the center equipment cabinet is part of the history of the hifi console. In the fifties a lot of hifi gear was sold as components to be installed into the furniture of the buyer's choice. So what ever you dream up that will fit your life can be made to work. Especially using speakers that you already own and like.
XO does not change with an offset tweeter.
MTM would need to be listened on-axis. In an MT with the tweeter under the woofer the main lobe is pointed up (IIC, we avoid anything with less than quarter wavelength spacing so my memory may be hazy).
Spacing is important, you want everything as close as possible.
dave
MTM would need to be listened on-axis. In an MT with the tweeter under the woofer the main lobe is pointed up (IIC, we avoid anything with less than quarter wavelength spacing so my memory may be hazy).
Spacing is important, you want everything as close as possible.
dave
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