phenolic ring tweeter (5oz magnet version):3,3uF or 4,7uF (see the picture)

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Hi guys!
Could I have your precious opinions about a capacitors replacing on a pair of phenolic ring tweeters (the vintage version, with the 5oz magnet)?
As you can see in the picture, the speakers are very simple (but very well sounding): there's just a bad quality capacitor connected to the phenolic ring tweeter as cross-over.
The original capacitor has 3,3uF, but I own a pair of Mundorf EVO ALLUMINIUM OIL capacitors brand new with a value of 4,7uF.
My question is: can I replace the original 3,3 uF capacitors with the 4,7 uF Mundorf capacitors?
The specifications of these speakers are the following (if this can help):
crossover: 3.500 Hz/ 6 db per octave.
60-15.000 Hz +/- 3 db
40-20.000 Hz +/- 6 db
20 watt RMS/ 30 watt MAX- 4 ohm


So, what do you think about this replacing?...is it possible?
Thank you very much for your kindness.
Best regards from Italy!;)
 

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Thank you for your reply...but I already own the two 4,7uF Mundorf EVO Alluminium Oil caps, brand new.
In my opinion it is a shame to leave them unused inside a drawer.
For this reason I'm asking if I can use them to replace the original 3,3uF capacitors...of course only if you say that it is possible!;)
Thank you!
Regards
 
Here's what I would do with a 4.7uF capacitor.

This possibly isn't the greatest speaker in the World. But an interesting start.

The old SEAS Njord kit. SEAS of Foss in Norway don't make these drivers any more.

But they make some serious current equivalents:
H1288-08 CA22RNX
H1212-06 27TBFC/G

Lot to like there. If I was you. I'd just build this design. We can sort out a better filter and a cone tweeter later. :)
 

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thank you very much for your interesting replies.
However, I'd like to know what changes in the sound range (or in sound quality) using a 3,3uF capacitor instead of a 4,7uF capacitor.
Could you give me a reply?...I'm learning (at least I'm trying) with your help!
Thank you guys!
Best regards
 
Hi Peter,

You cannot willy-nilly replace cap values without expecting a change. The larger cap will let more bass through, possibly increasing the chances of causing damage.

On the other hand, you may learn a lot, and your ears matter more than test and theory, so why don't you try them, since it seems the only answer you would be happy are is "YES." Listen and see.

If you want to learn how this could affect things, I suggest you grab a free copy of XSim, and create a crossover mockup with a blank tweeter, and try out two different cap values. This will show you how changing values on an 8 ohm tweeter will affect things.

XSim free crossover designer

And if you'd like to try it with a more complete schematic, try it with any of the speakers in this thread:

XSim - Crossover Lab for Newbies

Best,


E
 
4.7 is a common value for tweeter caps on simple loudspeakers. I'll be the old school rogue and say "Try it." The "presence" frequency range will be accentuated, but you might like it. Not such a big deal...
The upper midrange response of the mid-bass is what actually matters in these cases IMO. Or, what Eric says: get a real crossover.
 
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ARGHHHH!!!:mad::mad::(:(
It's incredible...I've visited all the elecrtonic shops in my town...and I found only 3.9 uF Mundorf capacitors.
The Mundorf were the only polypropylene capacitors I found...so I bought them, with all my anger and my disappointment!
So guys, in your opinion...there will be all these differences between 3.3uF and 3.9uF in the tweeters sound?
What do you say?...please, let me know your opinion!;)...I trust only you!;)
Regards
 
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Well, you are moving the crossover point down by 20% or so, so you will only see noticeable increase of output for about an octave. But if you just have a small dip that's bothering you, it may be enough. At least you are not much more likely to fry the tweeter with that small change.

So try them, you already have them. This is diy, after all. You might try both parallelled on one speaker just to see what it sounds like with a greater change, as a reference, a way to get a feel for things. This is how we learn to correlate the theory with the effect.

Play with it. Alligator clips are your friend.
 
Well, you are moving the crossover point down by 20% or so, so you will only see noticeable increase of output for about an octave. But if you just have a small dip that's bothering you, it may be enough. At least you are not much more likely to fry the tweeter with that small change.

So try them, you already have them. This is diy, after all. You might try both parallelled on one speaker just to see what it sounds like with a greater change, as a reference, a way to get a feel for things. This is how we learn to correlate the theory with the effect.

Play with it. Alligator clips are your friend.

thank you very much, Boswald, for the support!;)
Best regards:);)
 
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